Picture shows trash/dirt left in recessed area of tub. Plumbing and drains not sealed allowing entry of anything.
I feel mfg homes are designed and constructed to provide you a very strong/banded box/structure. The design, materials, and detail to construction are where things go wrong for the home owner. The design does not protect from moisture, most construction materials absorb moisture, and poor detail to construction allows for all moisture problems.
HUD building standard/code is an excuse to build to a minimum construction and materials standard and it should not be an acceptable part of your negotiation. I challenge you to actually receive the homes engineering? HVAC design, duct sizing, and equipment list. Plumbing; size, location, ventilation, pipes insulated? Electrical/switch locations, and homes envelope/see picture? All materials used in homes manufacturing and supporting documentation.
The purchase involves a Mfg home corporation that uses 3rd party; ‘seller’, ‘manufacturer’, ‘transporter/setting up’, ‘engineered foundation’ and ‘accepting testing’. After deliver repairs are completed by ‘independent contractors’ and ‘aftermarket warranties’. Do not count on any warranty or promises for repairs. Plan on several weeks of time and expense making corrections. Your choice to believe me or not!
Plan on taking responsibility for overseeing homes foundation (elevation) and design. Also correct location of septic and electrical. Roof overhang (choices available), gutters, and your access door protection (patio covers) from rain are your primary moisture concern. I recommend not installing wash/dryer in a mfg home for numerous reasons.
My 2011 Texas experience going to where they build mfg homes; Remember the bobble head figures from years back? I am old enough to know when someone is lying to me and told him so. They knew they had my money and I have a HUD home.

Suggestions; Gas/propane heat and water heater are a good choice, ceiling hvac vents and 10’ ceilings. You do not want the holes in your ceiling from recessed lighting.

Watch for; fiberglass tubs and showers; not structurally supported to add a safety bar. Flat spots (seating area) where water puddles and does not drain correctly. Be careful with changes, I removed walk-in shower (added whirlpool tub) and my master bathroom came with NO shower. Inspect design and finished product.
Choice of cabinetry. Exterior doors seals. Caulking around flooring.

Upgrade; Windows, sheetrock (best R value) entire home vs board interior, plumbing faucets, interior doors/hardware, exterior access door size/type, max insulation in belly/ceiling everywhere, wire support to belly, hvac system, 2x4x16oc walls (fyi interior are 2x3x24oc), ceiling fans and switches (everywhere).
Roof-there need to be a better option than asphalt shingles and greater than a 3/12 pitch. Roof penetrations/HUD.

Best project; whole house vac system. Easy, cheap, and works great.

Don't know about manufacturers in the AZ area, but I would recommend you shop at several dealer lots before deciding which has the best after-sale service. (Some are only in it for the cash).

The dealer is actually more important that the manufacturer. - They are the one's that are not being regulated. You can come back on a manufacturer, years later for problems done during construction. But truthfully, most real problems are caused during setup with shoddy setup crews and poor after sales service.

What enigma 2 said, which is what Christopherh and I have also repeatedly stressed.

"The dealer is actually more important that the manufacturer. - They are the one's that are not being regulated. You can come back on a manufacturer, years later for problems done during construction. But truthfully, most real problems are caused during setup with shoddy setup crews and poor after sales service."

I had an awesome dealer, and all problems (which were very minor) with my home were corrected. The most important upgrades to get are the structural ones, not the cosmetic ones. Get the 5:1 roof pitch, the heavier floor joists, all insulation upgrades. I wish we had upgraded to the OSB subfloor, but it is too late now. Anybody in lower Michigan who wants a home, I can recommend a really excellent dealer.

In Arkansas...Mitchell's First Quality Homes in Searcy is an Excellent dealer...they set the homes up extremely well and stand behind there work...I wouldn't buy a MFH anywhere else

I would strongly suggest a (stick-built) modular home.

A modular home is no more "stick built" than a manufactured home...and believe I know I just spent 6 months researching both..the only difference is one is built on a steel frame and the other isn't and requires a crane to set-up.

Don't know where you researched but the only difference between a home built on site and the modular is that one is built outside. Both are considered 'stick-built' by lenders because the codes are the same.

The modular is built of the same materials and conform to the same building codes as site-built but the costs are 30% to 50% less. Modular homes, though made in a factory are not the same as mobile homes also called 'manufactured homes'. Because the home is made in a factory, there is a controlled environment and all the materials and labor are set up on an assembly line. The materials cost less because of the huge volume and the labor costs are much less.

If you want a three story mini-mansion, it can be built modular --- and people buy them through the same lenders that finance onsite builds.

Hello .... I have come acrossed your discussion here and I would very much like to ask u a few questions. I'm Eric my email address is esn419@gmail.com. Would u kindly send me an email? I really could use some solid advise and would also enjoy an opportunity to check into those classes u mentioned you were taking .

Regards.

Eric N