I think they are a viable option. I like the eW profile because it is a complete solution. In addition, the efficiency seems to be higher than max lite. Note that each manufacturer could introduce higher efficiency LEDs when they think the timing is right .

Thank you Davidtay! What do you mean that eW profile is a "complete solution"? I thought they were pretty much the same thing.

They have the necessary junction boxes, tracks, interconnect wiring, ... That you could use for a finished look.

I'm wondering if they have been updated. It says in the description that they are now brighter and not compatible with previous max lite sets that only have two wires (these have a ground wire). They are self driven and include bar joiners and connecter cords. The only other thing that my quote listed that I would need was bar to power connector cords.

It would appear to be. The 5k version are more efficient per watt.

Here is a link that might be useful: max lite plug & play

Oh, I see from your link that they offer 3 different color temperatures. Environmental Lighting only offers 2700 and 5000 and they say they recommend the 2700. I'm wondering if I might prefer the 3500 instead. Originally I was seeking out 3000k. Does it matter that my recessed lights will be 2700k? Should they match in temperature?

It's up to you. I personally prefer cooler temp for Ucl.

Some will insist on matching the color temp.

Thank you so much! I really appreciate your help!

Just thought I would share about the maxlites. I ordered them...they are very low profile and slim. Look like they could be a great option, BUT I realized that they do not have their own on/off switch. Bummer! I have to send them back. And they had everything else I wanted...low profile, direct wire, various temperature choices, dimmable.

The individual on/ off switch may be less useful than you think.

I really only want the on/off switch in one section of my kitchen which is where my TV sits, kind of at the end of a long run of counter. It is under a 36" upper cabinet which is separated from the rest of the counter run by a large 6" window. I figure that when I'm using the ucl, I will probably not want a light on above my TV, since the TV is always on when I'm in the kitchen. For the rest, I don't really care if they have a switch or not.

You could have a separate circuit controlled by another wall switch.

This could be accomplished by pulling additional wire or by using embedded enOcean controllers for each branch.

The latter solution will have a high initial price tag. However, since the switches are wireless, you could change the location very easily.