If you want to re-use the existing LED UCL, as long as the wiring is not compromised and the new cabinets are ~ the same dimensions and construction as the old, it is a matter of fixing the bars.

If you want direct wire, the necessary romex has to be run to convenient locations under the cabinets for wiring up the new lights.

The good earth lights work best when configured as individual units and are not intended to be linked together like the eW profile or the env lights led bars. They don't appear to be dimmable either.

Sorry, I was looking at another good earth light which was not dimmable and cannot be linked.

The following might be worth considering from a price point. The main draw back is that the lights are >1" in height.

http://www.lowes.com/pd_397608-1390-G0622CL-BK-I_0__?productId=3662104&Ntt=led+under+cabinet+light&pl=1&currentURL=%3FNtt%3Dled%2Bunder%2Bcabinet%2Blight&facetInfo=

The eW profile of similar length is ~ $109.
The smaller the profile, the higher the cost.

The main advantage of direct wire is that they are easier to swap out.

thanks so much for your quick response! The light bars are fine and still work, and we are keeping the same layout as far as cabinets. I just wondered if it would be just as easy to hard wire them or would it be easier to hardwire the direct wired ones.

Would it be a good idea to put plugmolds under the cabinets and just plug them in? I don't want wires to show. There will be a decorative molding on the bottom of the cabinets to hide light bars.

The 30" bar is $107. I can get all I need for around $680, vs $1200 for kichler. That is waaaay out of the budget. I really hate even buying the new lights at all, since we have lights that work fine. but being that they are a little on the "cool" side, and looking for ease of installation, I would bite the bullet and get these from lowes.

Here is a link that might be useful: 30

I would put the plug mold strips on a separate circuit since they imply available outlets to plug in appliances.

The 120V AC portion of the existing UCL circuit can be used. The electrician will have to disconnect the power supply and the low voltage portion.

You will also need to get a new dimmer switch (ELV type).

Treat the entire install as a new build - price and measure everything out, dry fit.

Thanks again for your help. Maybe we will put outlet in upper cabs, then run wire from each light up thru cabinet. Does that sound like a good idea?

That depends on who is installing what. If your cabinet maker can make the necessary holes it wouldn't be too bad.

Otoh, if having everything fit well and look well designed is a must, I wouldn't do that.