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| Hi, my kitchen remodeling is coming along nicely, but I am really confused about these bundles of wires coming of the wall (see pic)
Each of these bundle used to have one fluorescent light attached and all four bundles are connected to a switch located at the entrance of the kitchen, so with one flip of the switch, all four lights come on. Now I want to move into the 21st century and get LED instead. I assume that you attach a driver to one bundle of wire and then snap several LED in place to cover the run of the cabinet and use cables to go over the microwave. I don't need a dimmer, but if I stall one, that would go in the place of the current switch correct? This way I have 3 bundle of wire left over. What do you do with these? How do you hide them? What do you think electricians will charge for installation. The one I spoke to want to charge over $500. That seems a little excessive to me, but I have no idea what a fair price would be. Thanks in advance. |
Follow-Up Postings:
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| If your previous fluorescent UCL ran off 120V AC, the cheapest option would be to use LED UCL that also runs off 120V AC. eg - Philips eW Profile or MaxLite or the uniLume (ultra thin profile). Yes the dimmer switch would replace the current switch. |
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| Hi Davidtay, if I get http://www.environmentallights.com/led-under-cabinet-lighting/maxlite- self-driven-direct-wire/under-cabinet-light-bars/14352-mlsdlb1827led.h tml then I have to buy one of these http://www.environmentallights.com/led-under-cabinet-lighting/maxlite- self-driven-direct-wire/interconnect-items/14357-mlsdlbjl70g.html to connect to the bundles of wires coming out of the wall correct? Then I repeat for the other 3 spots and all the led should be connected to the switch by the entrance? |
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| Short answer is yes. |
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| Thanks, I have an electrician coming here on Monday to discuss the cost of installation. He said he installed this exact brand of light before. |
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