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| Hi all,
Just realized today - there is NEW separate forum discussing lighting issues on gardenweb! I posted this message on Electrical Wiring board and got one reply from ronnatalie who referred me to california residential compliance manual. I have to admit - manual a bit complicated for me and has a lot of terminology.
I would greatly appreciate any additional input on the subject below! ORIGINAL POST
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Follow-Up Postings:
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| The following link has more information. Title24 mandates that you install gu24 cans or cfl cans which will not hold e26 base incandescent bulbs. |
Here is a link that might be useful: Led can light guide
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| Thank you, David! I have just finished reading the link to your review - very helpful. I also saw several of your replies to similar questions that answered some of my concerns and were very educating. Do you mind if I pick your brain a little more: Since our project will be technically a new construction (no can housings was installed anywhere in the kitchen) to be compliant with california code: 1. Does can housing need to be airtight and satisfy ASTM E283 <2 cfm threshold? As for what goes into these cans - what is the difference between LED and LED trim? I realize that these are dumb questions and information/answers have been provided on this forum to most of them - but I wanted to get California-specific answers that are scattered all over the posts and unfortunately I am running out of time. I am also confused with the industry lingo... Dax |
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| David, this is one of your comments from 2010. Is it still applicable in Oct 2012 I ended up with LED cans as I figured that |
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| Last time I checked, the dining room doesn't have to have GU24 sockets. Like other living areas, it either has to be high efficacy (fluorescent or LED on the official CA approved list and in an approved type of non-screw-in socket), or be on a dimmer. So just use a dimmer and install Edison base cans and buy CR6/CR4 or the Home Depot Ecosmart version, and save $20 per can while keeping options open. Screw-in CFL doesn't qualify (unless on a dimmer). In the kitchen itself, adding a dimmer doesn't satisfy the T24 requirement, so you are stuck with fluorescent or GU24/LED for the majority of your lighting watts. There are adapters that let you convert a screw in socket to a GU24 -- these do not satisfy the requirement to not have screw-in in the kitchen, even if the conversion is "permanent". GU24 socketed cans are/were not T24 approved for CFLs either. The 4" CR4 looks (to me) a bit better than the CR6, but costs more. Also, the CR6 gives you the option of using the brighter 800 lumen version. As of today: CR6 575L about $45, both screw-in and GU24 Ecosmart 6 inch LED at HD (local, San Jose) $25 screw in, $40 GU24. There seems to be no difference from the CR6, except warranty is 3 years instead of 5. |
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| Attofarad, thanks for all the tips! Our dining room area and kitchen are essentially one room and are separated by peninsula with cooktop. In this case am I still ok with dimmer and Edison socket in the housing for DR only? Kitchen eventually will get the GU24/AT/IC housing as per code. |
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| (I think Attofarad and I must shop at the same Home Depot...) When we reconstructed our house four years ago, we designed our kitchen to be part of a great room that includes an informal dining area. Only the kitchen part needed the high efficacy lights. We were forced to use Title 24-compliant CFL cans because at the time, LED was not as price competitive as it is today. However we did the breakfast area and the rest of the great room in normal incandescent and halogen on dimmers. Now that LED technology has come down so far it price, I have been retrofitting LED where it makes sense. So I think your electrician is giving you fine advice to use cheap cans and the CR-6. It is really a great product. We have 18 of them now, and may eventually add another 14-15 of them to replace the CFLs in the CFL cans. |
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| WWS944 - thank you. I see now how I was mistaken about the advise from our electrician. I looked up housings on HD website and looks like model H7ICAT from HALO might work. Will let the electrician call the shots though. |
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| 1. Does can housing need to be airtight and satisfy ASTM E283 <2 cfm threshold? Yes 2. IC rated? we will have insulation (batts) in the attic after ceiling is done Yes 3. what type of connector must be in this housing to comply with california? GU24 or some other non E26 base. 4. will it work with dimmable switch 5. what difference does the size of the can make - on # lights, restrictions, overall price of housing/bulbs The 4" cans are typically more expensive than the 6" equivalents. You need to price out every part to get a good idea of the total cost, what is more cost effective vs what you can afford to splurge on. The number of lights depends on the output of each lamp vs the total sq ft * desired illumination per sq ft. 6. can you suggest a model that I can look at by going to HD/Lowes? You should look for something like If I were to redo my lighting today, I might consider using 4" cans with the CR4. |
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| thanks, davidtay will be looking for these modesl over the weekend at HD. dax |
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| Re: glare - Cree offers optional trim rings for the CR6 in your choice of three anodized dark colors plus black plastic if you find the standard white trim too glaring. These work on the HD Ecosmart version as well. They add almost $15 to the cost of each though. The CR4 can be purchased (in the Cree-branded version only) with a shiny silver trim as well as white. |
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