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Ideas for hard-wired LR wall lights (not linked to switch)?

Posted by kebak (My Page) on
Tue, Sep 28, 10 at 19:17


I'm looking for ideas for replacing 2 wall sconces in our living room, that are hard-wired but not controlled by a lightswitch (unfortunately - I'd love it if they were!).

The existing sconces are roughly at head-level (maybe 5 1/2 to 6' from floor), and are on either side of a patio door. They give off little/no functional light (clamshell, upward-shining), and we'd like to put something in their place that would contribute more useful light (it's a VERY poorly lit room, and we live in Alaska, where it's dark a LOT of the time!). So, my questions are:

1. Do you have suggestions on types of light fixtures that, at that height, would both look good (fitting for a casual LR) and provide as much light as possible to the nearby couch and floor area where the kids play? I've browsed the lamp-style (normally on an arm?) w/ traditional looking shade, or perhaps a wall-mounted track-light (but at that 'lower' height, I'm thinking track-lighting wouldn't work well?) - any recommendations on these types, or others not mentioned, in terms of working at that height and light output - again, needing a hard-wired unit?

2. What would it take to see if we could relatively painlessly put those two lights onto a lightswitch? As I said, they're currently on either side of a patio door (about 2' from each edge, so maybe about 10' apart from each other on same wall), and only have manual-switches. I'm no electrician, and am on a tight budget, but am curious if there's a way (w/out ripping up major sheetrock to see what's underneath and where) to guess/see where the wiring runs from each unit, to try to link them to a single lightswitch? [If it's too much dealing/cost, then we'll just look for lighting units w/ easily-accessible manual switches, and treat them like lamps.]

Thanks so much -- I'd appreciate any ideas/suggestions!

Follow-Up Postings:

RE: Ideas for hard-wired LR wall lights (not linked to switch)?

You can either spend a lot of time (or money if you hire someone) minimizing drywall damage, or simply cut into the wall as needed to run wires.

Drywall repair normally costs much less than elctrician's time, so the walls get cut into.

A narrow strip of drywall allows holes to be bored at each stud and a new line pulled.

If you use a rotozip type tool to cut out the strip of drywall it is not hard to simply put it back in the gap created and tape and mud it up.

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