The ballast should be disconnected before switching to LED lamps like the CR6.

When retrofitting LED to a CFL can or any fluorescent fixture, the ballast needs to be disconnected first.

Appreciate the replies!

My problem is that I can not access the fixtures from the top. So I don't think there is an easy way, from the underside, to disconnect the ballast. But would really like to be proven wrong...

Options
1. Cut through the ceiling, rewire the can and patch the hole.
2. Cut out the can in place and replace it with a retrofit housing w/o a ballast. Think of it like keyhole surgery.
3. Cut through the can to the ballast compartment.

The first is the most straight forward and probably the easiest (practical)
The last is the least likely to succeed and would most likely result in either option 2 or 1 being taken in the end.

One of these triple tube CFLs burned out today. It is in a bathroom location which gets switched on/off a lot and not really on for long times. So rather than paying $10-$15 for a new bulb, I spent $25 for a new CR-6.

It turns out one can get to the guts of these lights by pulling out the trim, unscrewing three hex head screws with a 1/4" socket wrench, then sliding the interior of the can downwards. Next unscrew the two screws holding the ballast cover on. The ballasts mounting plate simply unclips - providing access to the wiring.

I drilled a new hole in the can to route new wires, using a grommet to protect the wires from sharp edges. Disconnected the ballast, wired up an Edison socket (sorry Title 24 buffs) and reassembled.

Works great. I did go from a 1700 lumen bulb (considering light loss in fixture, this number is effectively reduced quite a bit) to a 575 lumen bulb. However this area quite small so it isn't that big a deal. But I think if I do some of the others in my house I would use the new 800 lumen CR6.