Return to the Lighting Forum | Post a Follow-Up

remodel vs new construction frame-in kits

Posted by suethemidwife (My Page) on
Thu, Sep 17, 09 at 12:30

My electrician is planning to use a Lightolier remodel frame-in kit in my kitchen (7 recessed fixtures, model 2003R). My very well-insulated attic (unfinished, blown-in insulation) is above the kitchen. When I inquired--shouldn't you use a kit that is designed for contact with insulation? he said, we will just cut out the insulation 3" around each fixture. If I want to use what I think is the proper kit (new construction kit 2000AIC, for contact with insulation and an "air lock" which I think helps fixtures in an unfinished space not perceive themselves to be overheating and shut themselves off in the summer) he said fine, but these are harder to install and you will be charged $40 extra labor per fixture.

Part of me thinks, just let these guys do what they do, and part of me worries they're not doing it right. I have installed lots of frame-in kits before and it's no fun but I suppose I could just do it myself and they can just wire them up.

Any thoughts? Am I being too persnickety? Do the new construction kits perform any better than the remodel kits, which seem sort of flimsy to me? All you lighting experts, please weigh in. Thanks in advance.

Follow-Up Postings:

RE: remodel vs new construction frame-in kits

Remodel cans are easier to install.
But if you remove the insulation around the can, you'll essentially be having non insulated holes in your ceiling everywhere your cans are.

So take that into account. If you're fine with it, stick with the remodel. If not, upgrade to the new construction.

RE: remodel vs new construction frame-in kits

Maybe one of our contractor visitors will chime in -- for some reason it sticks in my head that Uniform Building Code says that recessed fixtures require a cover that can be covered by insulation.

RE: remodel vs new construction frame-in kits

Check with your local code.
Most areas won't let you use regular units with the insulation kept back 3".They require IC cans that are also air tight.
And follow the previous advice.Removing the insulation, and cutting out the vapour barrier is not a good move.
It seems that this electrician is not giving you the right info

 o Post a Follow-Up

Please Note: Only registered members are able to post messages to this forum.

    If you are a member, please log in.

    If you aren't yet a member, join now!

Return to the Lighting Forum

Information about Posting

  • You must be logged in to post a message. Once you are logged in, a posting window will appear at the bottom of the messages. If you are not a member, please register for an account.
  • Please review our Rules of Play before posting.
  • Posting is a two-step process. Once you have composed your message, you will be taken to the preview page. You will then have a chance to review your post, make changes and upload photos.
  • After posting your message, you may need to refresh the forum page in order to see it.
  • Before posting copyrighted material, please read about Copyright and Fair Use.
  • We have a strict no-advertising policy!
  • If you would like to practice posting or uploading photos, please visit our Test forum.
  • If you need assistance, please Contact Us and we will be happy to help.

Learn more about in-text links on this page here