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How to wire LED zones?

Posted by jdougjo (My Page) on
Wed, Apr 21, 10 at 23:16

I'm considering 24V LED light strips for under and over cabinet kitchen lighting and want to understand how to wire them.

The plan would be to have a total of 6 zones of light strips, 3 zones for under cabinet and 3 zones for over cabinet with a 100 Watt Class 2 DC driver installed in the sink cabinet to drive them.

Am I right in assuming I would first T the output from the driver into 2 zones for uppers and lowers and then further T those 2 zones 3 more times for a total of 6 zones?

If that is correct how do you split the wiring? Do you just use junction boxes and wire caps? Or, should I use a T-connector like the HADCO LCV4? They are a bit pricey but look convenient. I guess I should try to keep the wire distances and power requirements of each zone fairly equal?

Or, am I totally wrong about how to do this?

Follow-Up Postings:

RE: How to wire LED zones?

Yes, you can use junction boxes and wire caps. Alternatively, you could use Ideal powerplug / In-sure connectors.

How much power do the strips require in total?
You can test out the setup with everything connected to make sure that the transformer does not buzz @ max power.

RE: How to wire LED zones?

Haven't decided exactly how many I want to use, but expect total to be between 50 and 65 watts.

So, with those connectors do I push one set of wires into the input side and two sets on the output side? 16/2 AWG wire rated for in-wall OK?

RE: How to wire LED zones?

You'll need to follow the manufacturer's instructions. LED systems can have very specific rules and guessing isn't a good idea.

Class 2 power supply means you don't need J boxes. This is similar to door bell wiring with power limited transformer.

RE: How to wire LED zones?

Yes, the Ideal connectors work that way and are a better choice than wire nuts.

Take a look at the following site. It would help in determining the gauge of wire and max length possible.

You have to calculate the power consumption each run takes.

There is a voltage drop across the light bars. The max limit on the number of light bars that can be connected in series is typically stated by the manufacturer/ vendor.

Each zone would probably have to be wired in parallel not in series.

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