I found a company called Brodwax that has some interesting UCLs.
I only looked at direct wired lights.

R950-14 (relampable but non dimming) You buy the lamp strip of LEDs separately from the fixture. Then if the LEDs go out you buy a replaceable LED bulb which has the LEDs in place. It has pins on the ends. It reminds me of a long fluorescent bulb. $45.00 - 55.0 for the bulb.

S201-24/40 - this light has a rotating LED light bar. You install it, then rotate it to direct the light where you need it.

LEDUCM21- 7 watt

LSA620 (1 row of LEDs) or LSB620 (with 2rows of LEDs)

DL Flex Up is a flexible linear tape lighting system that could be hardwired, but I think there are better and cheaper choices for me.

Has anyone looked at these? I read the specs, but electrical stuff seems to go in one ear and out the other when I read.

I thought these lights might work in my upper glass cabinets since they need to be connected together.

If you have any opinions on these lights, I would love to hear them. Thanks, Peke

Here is a link that might be useful: Brodwax

The MaxLite MLSDLB9650LED is direct wired.

Both the Philips eW Profile and Maxlite bars are lower profile than the Brodwax.

Both the Philips eW Profile and Maxlite bars are linkable and dimmable.

Based on the published specifications and your budget, you should be able to figure out which suits your needs best.
For example
1. Dimming (Y/N)
2. Max profile - under 1" or not.
3. Light output per ft
4. Color rendition Index > 80 (Y/N)
5. Color temp > 3000k?
6. Available lengths of the bars.
7. Parts to get - interconnect wires, junction boxes, mounting track. light bars,
8. Total cost of all the parts.

Re-read the DIYUCL and continuation threads.

I did, but the info just doesn't stay with me. There is so much information to remember. I think lighting is one of the most difficult parts of remodeling. It's why I keep putting off buying the lights. LOL

Now that you're progressing down the path of line voltage under cabinet lighting, have wiring installed as well as the upper cabinets, the to figure out list is shortened.
1. Max uninterrupted span under the cabinets - this will help determine what lengths of the light bars are possible, number of interconnects, ...
2. Style - continuous light run without any interruptions or light only over important spots - place where cutting/ chopping will be done.
3. Max height tolerable if it is 4. Light color desired
5. Using the max lumens per foot, you can figure out if a light would be adequate or not.
6. Calculate and compare the total costs for different solutions.
7. Other needs for example- dimming, ...

Based on the above suggestions, you should be able to figure out what makes sense for your personal needs.