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clinresga

MR16 can replacement

clinresga
10 years ago

I am a total lighting newbie, so forgive me if I'm asking dumb questions. Our home office was remodeled about 13-14 years ago. For lighting, there were nine Eurofase TERE-00 3'' recessed MR16 halogen cans installed. They are now failing: specifically, the two-pin sockets appear to be wearing out or corroding so that they do not make reliable contact with the bulb pins. A local handiman replaced the sockets by just wiring new ones in, but the heat from the bulbs has caused the wire nuts to crack and fall off. So, unless someone knows a better way to fix the sockets, I guess I'm looking at replacing the entire fixture?

If so, my question is whether there are alternatives (presumably, LED) to the halogens. What little I know suggests that MR16 LED replacements are tricky, with compatibility issues with the transformers, heat issues, etc. I'd rather not have to rewire the entire ceiling for line voltage, so if you were in my shoes would you:

Put in all-new LED fixtures? If so, what kind would work in the existing cutouts?

Stick with the same fixtures but use a retrofit LED bulb?

Or is that enough of a hassle that I should just go with replacement halogens?

Comments (15)

  • David
    10 years ago

    You might already have line voltage wiring.

    Check if your existing lights have a built-in power supply with line voltage input.

    Were the lights installed as retrofit ie- holes were cut in the ceiling and the lights installed from below?

  • clinresga
    Original Author
    10 years ago

    Sorry for delay in response! They were installed as part of a rather comprehensive redo. I'm pretty sure we're limited to low voltage as there's a transformer in the basement.

  • David
    10 years ago

    If the installed cans are the following
    http://www.eurofase.com/products/browse.cfm?productID=34125c24-3048-8bc6-c359-a1827b550b1c

    They use line voltage for each can.
    http://www.eurofase.com/manuals/TERE.pdf
    See the bullet point which says "Power supply should be 120 Volt AC."

  • David
    10 years ago

    Something like the following may work for you

    http://www.toshiba.com/lighting/products/led-lamps/mr16-gu53.jsp

    You could pick up a GU5.3 LED bulb (50W equivalent) to try.

    Until recently, the 50W equivalents were not really as bright as the 50W halogen bulbs. YMMV.

  • clinresga
    Original Author
    10 years ago

    davidtay: if I can find a way to keep the existing cans, then these would definitely be worth a try. The existing halogens are very bright and I suspect I could live with a few less lumens.

    And, you are making a pretty strong case that these are indeed retrofitted cans running off 120V. I presume that would mean that each can has its own transformer stepping voltage down to 12V? Would these be compatible with the LED bulbs?

    And finally, if there is line voltage in the ceiling, and the existing fixtures are shot, what would you think to replace them with?

    Thanks for being so patient!

  • David
    10 years ago

    Each can has a power supply from the specification sheet.

    The easiest route would be to try out a GU 5.3 LED bulb.

    If you envisage using only 2" or 3" light fixtures, you could use miniature recessed lighting from waclighting and other vendors.
    Typical cost per unit could range from $100 - $200.

    Another option would be to use 4" can lights (retrofit cans) - unit cost ~ $50 - $60

    All are installed as retrofits.

  • clinresga
    Original Author
    10 years ago

    OK, got it. My electrician thinks he can just clip out the old sockets and install new ones. If that works, then the GU 5.3 LED's would be what I'll try. If not, I'll look at the options you listed. And thanks a ton for sticking with this through all the dumb questions!

  • sneezye
    9 years ago

    You should use porcelain wire-nuts in that application if you would like to use the current setup.

    Here is a link that might be useful: Porcelain wire nuts

  • wws944
    9 years ago

    Suggest switching to LEDs. There are a lot of them available that are quite bright. I used the Philips 10w MR16s that Home Depot stocks, and have been quite happy with them. Some are the older 435 lumen version and a couple are the current 500 lumen version. All replaced 50w halogens. In my situation, with 'wall washing' cans, the LED bulbs actually look better than the halogen ones.

    If I were to do it over again, I would also look at the Cree LM16 and various Soraa models.

  • lee676
    9 years ago

    Soraa Vivid 2 the best MR16s on the market now. 95 CRI, and lots of choices in color temperature and beam spread. Some even have replaceable adjustment filters for color, beam spread, and antiglare. They're all available in line- or low-voltage.

  • Arthur8994
    9 years ago

    I had to replace all of my MR16 50W halogens with CREE LED that i got from www.lightexports.com , like i put in another post about 7-8 month of use and no issues so far, they only consume 4W of light and output 50W, i got them in warm white so it still has that same halogen look and feel.

  • A U
    8 years ago

    Hi Arthur, can you please tell me exactly what CREE LED model bulbs you got? Did you also change the trim? Thanks

  • A U
    8 years ago

    Hi guys, questions for those who suggested replacing halogen MR16s with Cree, Soraa or Philips MR16s. I need to also replace the trims. My current waffle trims are very yellow/orange looking. What's a great and not overly expensive trim to get these days for LED MR16s? Truly appreciate your advice.

  • homepro01
    8 years ago

    Alinka,

    When you refer to the trims, are you talking about the pieces that cover the hole that the recessed lights are in? In my experience, these trims are manufacturer specific. Do you know you manufactured your recessed lighting?


  • A U
    8 years ago

    No, i'm talking about the trims (circles) that are on the outside - on the ceiling. The can itself is made my Jesco Lites.