This W1986 is my first front-loader, and when I got it, I found the door hard to close (hard to get it to latch). My mother was visiting, and I believe she showed me a place in the quick guide (that I've lost) that came with the washer (not the owner's manual) that said you have to swing the door closed hard to get it to latch. That's how I closed it for about five years, but then the door became loose and doesn't quite line up.

It seems that the hinge of the door is mounted to the body of the machine in two places (top and bottom). I'm guessing that there are threaded bolts built into the hinge that secure on the other side with nuts. The hinge is loose at the top, so that you can move the door up and down a little when it is open.

Since then, I push the door closed most of the way, and then press my knee into it to get it to lock closed. This works, but I wish the door was still lined up properly. If I was willing to take the front (or maybe the right side?) off the washer, I'm sure I could tighten the hinge fairly easily. But I'm reluctant to do that because I don't know how difficult it would be to get to the nut that needs tightening. I kind of figure I can just use it like it is and have that tightened some day when I need a service call for something that can't wait.

Have any of you had this issue with the W1986 door becoming loose? Do any of you know if it would be hard to fix? Thanks!

On both the 1916 and 1986 I just push them firmly closed. It's not like closing a dryer door, which just needs to close to the touch. The washer's door has to latch firmly, with a solid click-click. But there's no sense of a mismatch in the connection, though.

If you haven't got an anwser by Wednesday, perhaps I can help then.

L.

That would be fantastic. And, if it wouldn't be too much trouble, I'd really, really appreciate some pictures of the W1986 taken apart. Those might come in handy not only for this issue, but also in the future. I could get my email address to you.

Thanks!

4 Service

4.1 Lid - Removal
1. Remove the screw caps from the lid side edges.
2. Loosen the lid screws about 4 to 5 turns � max. Do not
completely remove the screws.
3. Press the screws in to release the retaining tabs. Lift the lid at
the front, slide it to the rear and lift from appliance to remove.

4.2 Plinth (Toekick) - Removal
1. From the bottom of the toekick, apply pressure upward
2. Pull the toekick away from the appliance.

4.3 Front Panel - Removal
1. Remove the Plinth (010 4.2)
2. Open the door.
3. Remove the clamping ring, that secures the sealing to the front
cover.
4. Unfasten the sealing ring and fold it back towards the drum.
5. Remove the Door Lock screws.
6. Remove the 10mm Bolt.
7. Close the door.
8. Remove the two screws from the bottom corners of the front
panel.
9. Hold the sides of the front panel, tilt the bottom edge forwards
and pull gently to release it from the plastic lugs on the Control
Panel Frame.
10. Lift the panel away from the front of the appliance.

I'd be interested in the W1203/1213/1215 hacks if you know them too. Those are the last 240v washing machines they sold in the US to my knowledge, and am considering them for my next kitchen if I move (so I can have stainless steel that matches the other appliances - the 1926 was white only) and I'd like to have a "water plus" option on them like on the older W1926.

The secret menu is entered as follows.
- Make sure the washer is turned off & door closed
- Selector should be turned to END
- Hold in Sensitive & Extended and turn on washer
- Let go of buttons, you should now see P-0 in display

From here, the different options are selected by turning the selector knob and rotating through the options by hitting the start key. When you turn off the washer, the options are set. From what I gather, there are a ton of them here, but I would not experiment with them as some affect voltage, motor speed, etc.

Here are the safe ones.

(next messages)

This option increases water in several of the cycles including Cottons.

You program this like above but turn the selector to Delicates 85, you will see P2 - 2. "Start" changes the options. Turn off washer to save.

This is one option that I changed. It adds more water to the cotton wash cycle and more water in rinses. Not as much as Max, but Max does not affect wash water level. This option also lets you turn it on or ff by hitting "sensitive" button.

0 - Off (default)
1 - On

I didn't try this one.

Turn selector to "Starch". You should see P10 - 0
0 - off (default)
1 - on
Turn off washer to save

I changed this option.

I've discovered alot of "secret menus" just by reading the service pamphlets and schematics that are hidden behind the toekicks or service panels on dishwashers and such.

Selected by turning the selector to "Fine Rinse" You should see P11-0
0 - Off (default)
1- On

----------------------------

These are the ones I know that work on the w1986. These option are present on all the machines but do vary somewhat in how they are selected. On machines without a numeric display the options are indicated by flashing lights.

I can try to figure out how to select these if interested.

The W-1986 was also a 240V machine. Sadly, as you mention, Miele does not sell 240 machines in the USA now.

I think they're referring to the (now hard to find) non-concentrated powdered detergent where you needed a full 8 ounce cup per load, which by necessity was packaged in larger boxes rather than the squat boxes typical for today's more highly-concentrated detergents. My last detergent purchase actually was a large box, but only because it was one of those 200-load Sears large boxes, and it needs only a 50cc cup per load.