dadoes,

I believe the hoses to the diverter are secure and from what I can see the water is coming from the pump area, above it. I would like to see a pic/diagram of the diverter connections to be sure I re-installed it correctly. The leaking/draining is happening the second water is put in the tub.

I removed the pump by twisting it free. I didn't remove any screws.

One last clue, the problem I was trying to fix was the water not draining but for awhile now I have had a trickle of water coming from under the machine during the spin cycle I think. Was that maybe due to the pump beginning to leak and my removing the pump just made it worse--broke what seal was there?

I ordered a new pump, hopefully it wasn't premature.

Thanks,

Bob

Ahh, you didn't previously mention that there was already a leak happening. Was the pump running noisy (sign of bad bearings)?

Disconnect the power and DO NOT continue to run the machine with a bad/leaking pump. It's very common that a wet pump shorts-out and zaps the motor controller board. You're lucky that (presumably) hasn't yet happened. Doesn't take much of a leak to cause a problem. Even a slight drip over a period of time that isn't apparent in terms of water running out on the floor is enough to cause damage to the pump.

Replacement pumps (should) include a retro-fit fuse kit that helps protect the board. Follow the instructions carefully. The wire into which the fuse is spliced is different depending on the model of machine. It's added to a wire in the console in either case, not down at the pump.

dadoes,

I guess I ran the machine twice with a leaking pump, first when I re-installed it and again to see where it was leaking from. How would I know if the controller board has been zapped?

I think the motor was running okay (though leaking maybe) until I removed it. I didn't notice that the motor was running noisy. I thought the water coming out from beneath the washer before this repair attempt just had to do with too high of a water level or something.

After reinstalling everything the washer power was on for a minute tops.

Thanks again,

Bob

Is there evidence on the pump of rusting or dried mineral deposits as indication of a long-term leak?

F&P's design is very sensitive to proper electrical resistance between the various components. You didn't cite the model number of your machine but assuming it's not a GWL10, the pump should read 7 ohms resistance +/- 10%. Potential damage to the board from the pump comes when the resistance goes off-spec. In some cases it can read OK when cool and go wonky when heated from running.

Typical evidence of a zapped board is a dead machine, but it's also possible that a specific circuit on the board gets damaged and the machine powers-on but one or more specific functions are impaired.

Perhaps as I advised above to ChiTown72 ... set the machine on blocks so you can see beneath, pour some water in from a bucket (with the power disconnected) and observe for the source of the leak.

Well, I have a new pump and fuse but I am not sure how to proceed. I will check again but I'm pretty sure the leak was from the pump and I am assuming from its gasket. If I confirm the leak is coming from the pump should I go ahead and replace it? Maybe replace the pump and put water in the machine--without turning on the power--and see if the leak is fixed? If that does the trick then install the fuse and turn on the power?

Check the hoses first on the diverter and tub sump. Your choice ... try to confirm the leak source (and maybe first dismount and remount the pump to be sure it's positioned properly) ... or go ahead and change the pump unless you're concerned about returning it to the vendor if not needed (assuming it can be returned).

well, I jacked up the washer on paint cans and the leak was indeed from the pump. You can see the water coming off it in the attached pic. Is it safe to assume it is due to a worn gasket on the pump?

I have also included a pic of the diverter, if anyone can see anything amiss with how i reinstalled it let me know!

I guess the first thing i will do is put in the new pump and look for a leak. If that solves it I will splice in the fuse and pray all is well.

Sound good?

Thanks,

Bob

Diverter looks good. Doesn't matter which of the wires goes on which connector. The only glitch would be if it somehow got installed physically oriented the wrong way such that the flows are reversed.

You might dismount the pump and check if the seal is torn or askew, or if the bayonet mount isn't properly fitted into the mounting bracket. The seal simply presses against the bottom of the tub outlet opening. A leaking seal probably normally wouldn't cause a leak *through* the motor shaft, water would run around the outside of the pump. The bearings may coincidentally be going bad if it is leaking through the shaft.

Remember about lubricating the seal face with a bit of liquid detergent to help it "slip" when rotating the pump into position.

i will put the new pump in this weekend, but for now here's a side-by-side pic of the new (left) and old pump (right). I understand why you question if it was the pump leaking (actually draining the washer) given how simple the attachment is. The gasket looks okay to me. I am still wondering if it's something other than gasket that's the problem. I'll find out when i get up the courage to put the new one in.

Thanks

I will make sure the screws in the pic of the installed pump are snug.

!

I put in the new pump and leaks just as bad as the old one. I don't understand. The pump can only go in one way, right? It locks into placed with that little clip. I pour a cup of water in the machine and it comes right back out from around the pump, right at the base I believe. I don't see any cracks or anything else. I was afraid of this.

Hmm. Sorry to hear that. It's difficult to diagnose leaks from afar without directly observing the situation. Again, be sure you're placing the pump properly into the bayonet mount bracket. It's initially set into the bracket with the motor body turned away from the main drive motor, then the pump is rotated clockwise into lock position and should pull upwards a little so the seal is secure against the tub outlet.

dadoes,

OMG.

I don't get it. I just put on the old one and it's not leaking! I assumed I put it on differently but it's oriented the same way as the picture I posted above. Maybe something I can't or couldn't see is different but I don't know what.

Should I leave the old one on and put it in the fuse or go with the new pump?

Assuming you can't (or don't want to) return the new pump, hold it for a spare and keep the old pump installed, but add the fuse kit per the instructions. The fuse will help protect the board but still be conscious of the pump when using the machine. Pay attention for unhealthy noise developing or leaking. I've often thought it's a good idea to place a piece of cardboard under the machine and pull it out once in a while after use to check for evidence of drips.

last thing, the water leaking over the pump wouldn't have damaged it? The washer is 10 years old, is it reaching the end of it's life? For future reference, should I not repair it again?

Thanks

The pump probably is not yet damaged. Water damage to it generally takes a while to develop to the point of concern, evidenced by rusting and mineral deposits, darkening or burning on the motor windings. The black plastic cover can be removed for a better view. An electrical problem will throw it off-spec on resistance reading (should be 7 ohms +/- 10%). I would keep an eye on it as I suggested above if it's the original pump ~10 years old. Or you can swap in the new pump and keep the old one as a spare.

Main concern in terms of service life of the machine is the tub/drive shaft bearings. They are replaceable but it's a larger job than swapping the pump, controller board, water. Other parts, overall condition and if/when they go NLA. I have a GWL08 dating to 1999 that has been passed to my nephew, only repair on it is pump replacement.

Great. I am on the verge of putting in the fuse. Is the pump harness the black and white wires on the right?

Thanks for all the help. Hopefully this step-by-step will help someone else.

No, the black and white wires at the right in your picture (by the water inlet) is the power cord.

Identify the correct wires by the labels embossed on the control board housing at the connector plug. Rotating your picture 180° as viewed from front of the machine, the pump wires may be this pair. Do not proceed until you're sure of the correct wires.

dadoes,

those are the pump wires you are pointing to. I put it the fuse and have a small load running now. It kinda sucks that the pump wasn't the issue since it cost $100 and I used the fuse it came with. Any suggestions?

Recall, this all started with the tub not draining! If I managed to put the pump back on correctly the first time I would have been finished a long time ago.

I do try things myself for fun and the education. Nothing is free!

I'll keep you posted on what happens.

Thanks again

DIY is always a learning experience ... more one does, more one learns for the next instance. Apologies for not directly advising in the first reply to check the pump mount ... but I did ask if you removed it correctly by dismounting from the bracket (vs. removing the bracket-and-all), which you did, so I could only assume that it was remounted correctly. Hazards of offering advice from afar.

Adding the fuse is a 100% good thing. The fuse should blow if an electrical problem develops with the pump (and Fault 37 Pump Blocked should occur) so keep that in mind if the pump quits running, in which case you have the spare pump to swap in ... and the fuse will also have to be replaced (2.5 amp 250 volt slow-blow per the kit instruction sheet and tag on the fuse holder).

I'm back...jeez... Made it 8 months without a problem

Fisher Paykel GWL 15 gave me an fault code of 00100101. I have so far removed and checked the diverter valve and removed and reinstalled the pump, as I did with the last problem. The previous problem was the result of a dime stuck in the diverter valve. I did install the fuse that I got with the new pump which I didn't need at the time.

The current problem is that it's not draining in the rinse mode yet water exits the hose in the spin mode. Does the spin mode use the pump? It does make a high pitched noise in the rinse cycle, not sure what it is.

Thanks again

The pump runs any time water needs to drain, which includes during spins both after the wash period and after rinse. There's only the one pump on the machine, no other way to get water out of it. The pump typically turns off for a few mins about half-way through the final spin, then turns on again at the end during deceleration.

You can test the pump for noise either via Diagnostic Mode, or by advancing any cycle to the Final Spin phase (although in that case there will also be some noise from the basket spinning).

The pump motor has thermal overheat protection. It'll shut off if overheating occurs, run again when it cools for the protector to reset.

Per discussion of your pump issue previously, you bought a new pump but ended up putting the original back and kept the new one as a spare. Perhaps it's time to swap in the new pump. You also installed the pump fuse kit. The fuse may be blown if the pump won't run at all, in which case replace the fuse (2.5 amp, 250-volt, slow-blow) and swap in the new pump.

The fuse is good, I put in the new pump and ran the diagnostic mode. Is the left 5 lights flashing an error code? If so, it's not the one I got running the machine.

Thanks a lot,

Bob

Left 5 cycle lights flashing (press Water Level Down - low level LED lit - after engaging Diagnostic Mode) indicates the Restart function is active. Restart allows the machine to try repeating/recovering a failed function when a fault occurs instead of immediately stopping and displaying the fault code. Recovery may be attempted up to 32 times depending on what fault is involved. Restart is normally enabled but can be disabled as a diagnostic aid so a suspect fault occurs immediately instead of waiting for x-number of retries for the fault to display during a test-run. Unplug the power cord for a minute to reset Restart to normal enabled operation.

dadoes,

so, I can't expect to get a fault code in diagnostic mode and I should run the machine to see if I get the original 00100101? I tried the diagnostic mode 2x after unplugging it for a minute.

I also briefly put the machine in rinse mode (no water in the machine, threw a towel in to have something in it) and no water entered the machine. I didn't let it go longer because the pump was leaking, that happened on the last repair and I have no idea why it leaked and what I did differently in installing it to stop it.

Thanks, again

Bob

Fault codes don't generate in Diagnostic Mode. DM reports what faults occurred during previous operating cycles. Only way to get a code to generate afresh is run a cycle.

The new pump is leaking?? The he11 .... ?? Be sure to lubricate the seal face lightly with liquid detergent so it slips (doesn't jam-up) when rotating the pump into position.

I replaced the motor and I got the the same fault code. What should I try next?

Thanks

"Replaced the motor" ... meaning installed the new pump that you had on hand (and it doesn't leak)?

"Got the same fault code" ... while running a cycle, or when checking fault codes in Diagnostic Mode? Recorded codes don't clear from Diagnostic memory until 8 cycles have run with no faults occurring.

What you want to check to confirm the fix is that a fault does not occur when running a cycle from start to finish. Or several cycles from start to finish.

Yes, I put in the new motor I had on hand and it didn't leak, after a few tries.

I got the same fault codes running the machine normally from beginning. The machine stops at the rinse cycle and eventually I get the error code. It has done this a couple times now.

One difference is that it wouldn't spin for me this time. On one occasion I was able to skip the rinse and empty the water from the machine in the spin cycle. Are things getting worse? I haven't checked the fuse lately.

Thanks again,

bob

The control board triggers Fault 00100101 (37, Pump Blocked Error) by
way of the water level not dropping (for 3+ mins) when the machine is
supposed to be draining. It doesn't necessarily mean that the pump is
not working or is clogged ... just that the water level is not sensed to be
dropping. The machine does not directly monitor pump operation.
Anything that interferes with draining will trigger Fault 37.

There's no difference in function between drain after the wash period or drain after the rinse (or drain during spin). Same drain process, same pump running.

At what point exactly does the fault trigger? Does some of the water drain before it triggers, or no drain at all? Is the pump running at first but turns off before drain is complete? If the water IS draining at a reasonable/normal rate but Fault 37 still triggers, then the cause probably is a bad motor controller board (the water level sensor is part of the board).

The machine can't spin until the water is drained ... or at least enough of it so the basket un-floats. Did you check that the basket slips up/down as I described above?

Ok. Once I scooped the water out of the machine the rinse cycle completed without an fault code. However, I don't think any water was pumped out during the cycle, whatever water remained after scooping it out stayed put. Then the it went into the spin mode but didn't spin.

I then unplugged the machine for a minute and checked the fuse and tried running a load from the beginning. It made some noises for the first couple of minutes and started filling with water and went through the wash cycle before stopping at the rinse cycle and giving the same fault code. The water didn't drain. I imagine the rinse cycle will work if I scoop out the water again. The problem is the water is not draining.

The pump isn't running? In which case either the fuse is blown (have you checked it with a meter or just visually?), or there's a wire/connection problem, or the new pump is bad, or the pump circuit on the motor board is bad.

Or the pump runs but no draining occurs? Then there's a clog somewhere. Or a malfunction of the diverter. If the pump runs but the water flow is to the recirculation port instead of out the drain hose, then the motor board may be bad, it can fail in a way to that keeps the diverter energized continuously (recirculation mode).

I don’t have any advice about the washer except if your motor control board that went out I found a place that fixes them for 79.00 (this price is for washer or dryer control boards) plus shipping back to you. The company name is circuit board medics. They have a website and if you email them the washer model they can email you a quote to fix the control board you have that’s broken. We sent ours in and three days later it came back fixed for a fraction of the price. We have used them a few times now for appliance control boards (for our stove, washer/dryer, and refrigerator) along with two cars wiring harnesses with wonderful results. It’s an option for anything that may cost more for a new board or one that you cannot find parts for anymore. They even provide a warranty.

How do I know if the pump is running and how do I know where the water is flowing to? Should I be running the machine while it's up on blocks so I can see what's going on?

I have only checked the fuse visually, I wouldn't know how to do it any other way.

Thanks again and again and again...

Bob

Running the pump was discussed in an earlier reply. Select any cycle, advance to the Final Spin (or the first Rinse light), press start. The pump will (should) turn on immediately.

Or you can test it via Diagnostic Mode. With the machine Off, press/hold Wash Temp Down, then press Power at the same time. Should hear two beeps and the console turns on. Press Regular cycle, the pump should turn on. Press Regular again to turn it off. Press Power to exit Diagnostics.

Pull the drain hose up from the standpipe when the machine is supposed to be draining to confirm water is flowing out of it.

It can be difficult to visually determine if the fuse wire is broken (melted, blown). Proper way is test for continuity with a volt/ohm meter (multimeter). Alternatively, just change the fuse ... get a replacement fuse (250 volt, 2.5 amp, slow-blow) at Radio Shack or order from Amazon or wherever you can find it.

250 volt 2.5 amp slow blow fuse

I will have to empty the machine of water first to do the diagnostic mode or jumping to final spin?

Also, what's the best way to look for a clog?

No need to bail out water already in the tub. Try running the pump via diagnostics. If it doesn't run then the problem is electrical (fuse, motor board, etc). If it does turn on then you can check if water is coming out of the drain hose.

well, apparently all along the problem was the fuse connection coming loose. The fuse I installed 6 months ago. I feel bad for all the drama but I'm glad I didn't pay to have someone come out to the boonies to figure it out.

Thanks for all the help,

Bob

dadoes, I believe we spoke about my F&P GWL 11 top load washer several years ago. You helped me solve my issue with the drain pump. Anyway, I ended up having to replace the pump and install the fuse about 6-8 years ago. It has worked perfect ever since, until about a week ago. I came down stairs to a different beep than normal and noticed that the fuse blew while in a cycle. I took off all hoses and diverter valve to check for blockage and can’t find anything. Then I checked from the top, removing the drum and checking the top of the pump. Still nothing. I ordered a pack of 4 fuses and have already blown 2 of them. I can get the pump to rotate for about 3-5 seconds and then it blows the fuse again. It seems like it’s draining fine for those few seconds. Now I've started to notice a leak from under the washer. I double checked all of my connections to make sure everything was snug but it still seems to be leaking a little. The whole time, I have been getting a fault code of 00100101. Any idea what could be causing any of this?? Any help would be much appreciated!

Fault 37 indicates the water level is not dropping when it should be during a drain period ... which infers the pump is malfunctioning or the drain route is blocked.

The fuse is, of course, intended to blow if there's an electrical problem with the pump so as to avoid zapping the motor board (which would happen without the fuse being in the circuit). Don't try to get around it by using a higher-rated fuse (2.5 amp, 250 volt, slow-blow).

Is the leak coming from the pump?

Check the resistance reading on the pump (you have a volt/ohm meter?). Disconnect the wires, read across the terminals, it be 7 ohms (+/- 10%, which isn't a large range) when cool/room temperature.

Thanks for the quick reply. Yes, the leak seams to be coming from the pump. When I lifted the machine up, the fan had water dripping from it. I do have an ohm meter. What setting should it be on before I check the reading?

Any ohms range. Reference whatever is the multiplier for the reading. I.E. if x1 range it should read 7, x100 range 700 (which may still be 7 on the scale), x1K range 7000, etc. Can also be that it'll read near correct when cool but skews when hot from running. In any case, the pump is suspect if leaking + blowing the fuse.

Well, I was getting crazy readings from the meter... so I attempted to connect it straight to power to test it. It ran for about 5-6 seconds and then started smoking. So, bad pump? Is there anything I need to check before buying and connecting a new pump?

Ha. My main concern is if there is something that caused it to go bad. Should I check anything else before installing a new pump?

There aren't any other components that would make the pump go bad ... although conversely an electrically-bad pump can kill the motor board if not for the protective/added fuse. Another fuse kit should be included with the replacement pump but you already have it installed, no need to swap what's already there in that regard. I could use an extra fuse kit (I have two F&P washers, one has a pump fuse, one doesn't) if you'd consider sending the spare to me.

Cool, thanks. Yea, I wouldn’t have a problem doing that.

Part is on the way to my house. What’s the best way for you to send me your info so I can get the fuse to you?

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