Return to the Laundry Room Forum | Post a Follow-Up

 o
Fisher Paykel GWL11 Problem

Posted by montel (My Page) on
Tue, Nov 13, 07 at 16:47

We have a 3+ year old F&P GWL11 - it is starting to really screech during the main rinse cycle - after it drains the washing liquid and spins, it then starts to shower and rinse and it really screeches. Seems like a pump or valve problem.

We called F&P and they were no help - Appliance repair person isn't sure what is wrong and has quoted up to $500 to repair - I will buy a new one before that.

Anyone have any ideas! Thanks in advance!


Follow-Up Postings:

 o
RE: Fisher Paykel GWL11 Problem

The pump is easily removable from beneath if you feel up to checking it. Best is to lay the machine on its FRONT, or support it securely somehow if you don't want to lay it all the way down (there'll be some water in the tub that'll probably leak out if it's laid all the way down). Once you get a look at the pump, it should be fairly obvious how to remove it. It's held in place by a latch. Release the latch and rotate the pump to remove it from the mount. Be ready with some thirsty towels to catch the residual water. Check if you have some lint or other debris interfering with the impeller.

DON'T lay the machine on its back, the out-of-balance sensing lever at the right rear corner could get broken.

Note that there's only one pump, and it runs for the beginning shower wash phase as well as for draining/spin and the shower rinse phases. Could be the pump bearing is going bad and gets noisy later in the cycle.

If F&P won't sell a pump directly to you, you can order one from Sears Appliance Parts either online or by phone. http://www3.sears.com (yes the 3 in the URL is correct). Sometimes the model-lookup function doesn't recognize F&P model numbers, must be a glitch in their database. Their phone reps may be able to find the part if given a model number. 1-800-252-1698

Check eBay also. There's a GWL11 pump listed for $70 (which is a bit high I think, but that's still WAYYYY less than $500).

If you'd like a service manual for your machine, contact me via e-mail.


 o
RE: Fisher Paykel GWL11 Problem

Hey if you have a service manual for the gwl11 it would be greatly appreciated. I have hired people to fix my machine and 300.00 later its still not right. I know it can fix it with the proper documents. Thanks, peace and happiness. A.b.


 o
RE: Fisher Paykel GWL11 Problem

I would like a service manual for the GWL11 (F & P wants $49 each for two technical manuals... The should be avaiable online for free.)

My problem:

The washer quit in the middle of a run. All power was lost.
Unplugging and waiting 1-5 minutes did nothing. Checked for 120V power. Good all the way to the Motor module. Called F & P for technical assistance...None available..
Called the place where I bought the washer. Service Tech said to replace the Display Board.
Troubleshooting:
1) Tested the display board power button. It worked all the way thru the wire for the Motor Module. (This board is probably not the problem.)
2) Took motor module apart. Followed power circuit to a 3amp TR5 fuse. Fuse was open. (The other 1 amp fuse on the board was good.)
3) Soldered in a car stereo fuse holder in place of the TR5 fuse.
4) Powered up and hit power button. The leds lit and the unit would run and fill with water then trip. (So low voltage from a power bump was not the problem.)
5) Disconnected the pump wires. The unit would run and agitate. (The pump and motor should have separate fuses/CBs. This would speed up troubleshooting and save $165 for the Motor Board and many hours of service tech billing.)
6) Checked out the pump after siphoning out the water. The pump was corroded and did not turn until I freed it up. Took the pump apart. The seal and shaft are worn. (There should be a shield to prevent water from getting on the motor rotor. A hose attached to the shield could be used as a telltale)
7) Looking for a replacement pump.


 o
RE: Fisher Paykel GWL11 Problem

You can get a pump at Sears PartsDirect. The URL in the message above dated 11/13/2007 is no longer correct. See the link below on this message.

Here is a link that might be useful: Sears PartsDirect Online


 o
RE: Fisher Paykel GWL11 Problem

Well - I return - I have been having a version of the original problem listed on my first post abovel off and on for the last year - dadoes thank you for the original help and the PDF Manuals!

The screeching happens now on a bit more of a consistent basis - on start up and during some of the rinse cycle (if it will rinse - see below).

The problem is that the "technician" that worked on it last year (the one who quoted $500 for a full rebuild) did replace the cold refill valve, monkeyed with and tried to blame my water supply pressures (not too high), and then it appears disabled the shower rinse completely as it now will never do a shower rinse.

When I attempt to go to the diag mode to try and select which type of rinse option the modes aren't available like they are listed in the manual - I try to cycle though the modes but it won't go through them.

Could the rinse mode be disabled forever - or broken? I am looking at junking the thing as my Wife is done at this point - I wouldn't have a problem replacing just one part at this point like the pump (it seems clean) - but if it needs a control board or something else it seems like a loss.

One further bit of infomation - the eco mode gets in a long cycle during what should be a rinse mode and the basket does it's slow spin with no water and runs for longer than even a standard cycle would run - like it is confused.

I would love to figure out a reset mode or some way to reset the eeprom...and someway to test and control the rinse modes.

Thanks again anyone that can help!!!

I may be buying a Bosch Nexxt 500 front loader and giving up on my Fisher Paykel...


 o
RE: Fisher Paykel GWL11 Problem

Dont take this personal, but I have found more people screw up things before they bring them in for repair than actually fix them. I can understand why they dont include free service manuals. A good lot of them break stuff worse and then want free warranty to fix the original problem PLUS what they have broken. Aint gonna happen.


 o
Edit

Also on another note, the risk of personal injury and property damage by unqualified servicing is also a factor they must consider.


 o
RE: Fisher Paykel GWL11 Problem

Diagnostic Mode is not where the rinse setting are changed.

Unplug the machine for a couple minutes. Reconnect the power. This should reset the machine back to normal operation from any diagnostic modes.

Option Adjustment Mode is where the rinse settings (and some other user options) are changed. This is outlined in your instruction manual. Press and hold Start/Pause, then press Power ... adjust the settings as desired per the details in your manual.

If the pump is squealing, it should be replaced. Not difficult to do, and much cheaper than a new washer.


 o
RE: Fisher Paykel GWL11 Problem

Thank you - I should have been a bit more clear!

Option Adustment mode is where I am trying to change the Rinse Mode.

I power off the unit (unplugging) for a few minutes, then plug the unit back in - When I hold START/PAUSE then press POWER - the manual tells me to Press SPIN SPEED to cycle through the rinse settings (shown below).

Hold LED ON OPTION (1) - Factory Setting SHOWER RINSE
Slow LED ON OPTION (2) - Spin Only
Medium LED ON OPTION (3) - Deep Rinse


After a fresh Unplug and Power On - I get the following when I press SPIN SPEED:
SPIN SPEED - LED ON MEDIUM

When I Press SPIN SPEED UP or DOWN it will only go to Medium or Hold - it will not go to SLOW - it beeps if I try to get to SLOW...

This seems like an error????

It seems like it is always set to option (2) No Rinse...

Is there some way this option could have been over-ridden?


 o
RE: Working On it Myself

"Dont take this personal, but I have found more people screw up things before they bring them in for repair than actually fix them. I can understand why they dont include free service manuals. A good lot of them break stuff worse and then want free warranty to fix the original problem PLUS what they have broken. Aint gonna happen"

Nothing personal at all: I resisted doing the work myself and even paid A&E Appliance Service to work on it - the problem wasn't fixed after three visits and countless complaints to the company plus calls to Fisher Paykel for help.

We got some great help here from dadoes in providing the Service Manual and advice, but I didn't want to spend any more money on the machinge - or work on it myself - due to some of the concerns you raised above, making it worse or breaking it completely.

We have lived with a half working rinse mode in our machine for over 1 year now!!! Not to mention the loud noise on Rinse and now on Start Up as well...

I would love to find out that all my problems would be solved by changing just the pump or just the control board - but I don't think it is worth changing out both - that would cost too much...

I was hoping that with more information someone might be able to point me in the right direction. The machine is only just over 5 years old and it seems like a waste to toss it away.


 o
RE: Fisher Paykel GWL11 Problem

I dont know what the pump on yours looks like, but if it is anything like the one on my neptune it can be disassembled and cleaned out. The one on my first neptune was gunked all up. I cleaned out all the gunk and she worked like new.


 o
RE: Fisher Paykel GWL11 Problem

Below I posted a YouTube video that shows how to replace the diverter valve. He also shows the pump and most of the parts underneath the machine. There are three parts to the videos. Hope this helps!!!

Justin

Here is a link that might be useful: F&P Diverter Valve fix


 o
RE: Fisher Paykel GWL11 Problem

montel,

Thanks for the clarification.

Perhaps you are referencing the wrong user manual? The manual I have for GWL11 (downloaded previously), and the one I find currently online for GWL11 both indicate that only the "Medium" and "Hold" choices are valid (for EcoSmart models). This relates to the rinse action on Delicate, Woolens, and Perm Press (which don't allow shower rinsing at all) ... and Regular & Heavy when Softener Rinse is selected.

If Softener Rinse is not selected, Regular & Heavy should always do the shower rinse, regardless of how the rinse option is set.

"Slow" is not a valid choice at all on the EcoSmart models, which is why your machine skips over it. It is available, however, on my older GWL08 (spin with no sprays after the wash, and one deep rinse). GWL08 does not have the recirculation system, and it has Water Saver (shower rinsing, valid on Regular & Heavy) as a button selection on the panel instead of Softener Rinse.

So the rinse options on your machine for Regular & Heavy are:

1) with Softener Rinse OFF, shower rinsing.
2) with Softener Rinse ON, either spin/spray + 1 deep rinse, or 2 deep rinses (there's probably no spin before the 1st rinse, or the softener would be dispensed too soon) ... depending on how you set it in Option Mode.


 o
RE: GWL11 Rinse Modes

OK - Thanks again, that begins to clear things up a bit more.

So I am back to my 2 problems - made a bit more clear now.

1. - Screeching - Probably the Pump at this point...

2. - Rinse Mode Not Opperating Correctly:

a. In Regular Mode The Rinse Mode Seems bad - it won't do a shower rinse

b. In Regular Mode w/Time Saver - It seems to get stuck in a loop and take forever slowly spinning the basket with no water rinse (takes longer than non time saver).

So the question on my mind now is could I just add the Softner Rinse to On on my Regular Cycle to get back to a better rinse mode...

I still feel like the unit is in some kind of wacky mode (or Operator Error) Hmmm


 o
RE: Fisher Paykel GWL11 Problem

Check a few settings ...

In Options Mode, what's the setting on the Water Level section? This controls the volume of water used for shower rinsing.
Low = least water (factory default)
Medium = more water
High = maximum water

In Options Mode, the lit Wash Progress light indicates whether Controlled Cold is enabled. Advance button toggles it. This may not have anything to do with rinsing, except that rinsing is always cold (except on Woolens). It's primarily related to installing the machine in a cold-weather climate with no hot water connection. Controlled cold enabled would try to mix-in some hot water (if needed) to raise the cold temp to about 65F, and fail if there's no hot water, generating a fault code.
Green = controlled cold ON
Amber = controlled cold OFF

Check the machine's size setting. With power off, press and hold Wash Temp Up, then press Power. Should get 4 short beeps. Press Spin Speed Up (or Down, I suppose) so the Hold light is on, to indicate a 650mm diameter basket for a U.S. (large capacity) machine. Then press Power to exit and save the setting. If the size setting is wrong, water levels will be wrong, agitation profiles are wrong, water valve flow rates are wrong, and shower rinsing volume is wrong.

Also when in Size Setting Mode, the Regular cycle button controls whether the pump pulses on/off during drain (only when the basket is floated) or runs without pulsing. Pulsing is preferred. Regular light OFF = pulsing ENabled. Regular light ON = pulsing DISabled.

You also mention that a service tech changed the cold water valve. Is it possible he/she installed the wrong valve? Hot and cold valves are different and NOT interchangeable.

Another possibility is that the control board has gone wonky. I recall someone who had a NEW machine that didn't act right during Softener Rinse. It would repeatedly stop the spin then rev up again, causing softener to dispense prematurely and be wasted before the deep rinse. Sort of a cross-up between shower rinse and softener rinse modes. F&P replaced the board under warranty.


 o
RE: Fisher Paykel GWL11 Problem

dadoes,

Thanks again here are the results.

The Machine Size Setting was WRONG - Set it per your Instructions

Pulsing was Enabled - I Left That alone

The Controlled Cold was set to Amber (uncontrolled) I live in Central Calif so no need for that - I changed it to the Default of Green (controlled)

The Shower Rinse Volume was set to STANDARD - I changed it to MORE - (The Medium setting)

The results of a first Heavy Duty Cyle are as follows:

Heavy Duty - Warm - Auto Fill - High Speed

No Noise on Start Up

O O O O O * * *
Wash Rinse Spin

Once it reached the Rinse Mode with the LEDS as above I kept track of the cycle

After first Drain & Spin the following happened:
Basket turned very slowly for 7+ min no shower
Aprox 2 Min Shower Rinse
Then Full Speed Spin & Drain

Basket turned very slowly again for 7+ min no shower
Aprox 2 min Shower Rinse (2nd)
Then Full Speed Spin & Drain

Basket turned again very slowly for 7+ min no shower
Aprox 2 min Shower Rinse (3rd)

Then cycle advanced to SPIN LED only Lit

O O O O O O O *
Wash Rinse Spin

And spun and finished...

Conclusion - NO Squeel/Screech Ever - Shower Rinse is working

My next Job will be to try Time Saver again, See if it stays Quiet and hope it continues to work...

Thanks again - I will report more as it happens...


 o
RE: Fisher Paykel GWL11 Problem

Hmmm. Those 7+ min periods of slow rotation (probably 25 RPM, "stir" speed) seem odd. I don't have a GWL11 to compare, but my IWL12 doesn't do that on shower rinse. Any time the basket turns at that slow speed during the shower rinse sequence, there's fresh water showering in (as the 2 min shower sequences you noted). I don't mean that the IWL12 showers are 7 mins long, just that it doesn't do the long periods with no showering happening. The service docs don't mention it, but maybe that's normal behavior for GWL11. Leastwise you are getting some showers. :-)


 o
RE: 7+ Min Slow Rotation - No Showers

I have no idea why it is doing this either - seems like an odd thing. I think that the same thing is happening on the Time Saver mode - which kills the time saving part...


 o
RE: Fisher Paykel GWL11 Problem

Here's one for a whopping $60

http://denver.craigslist.org/hsh/975560155.html


 o
Fisher Paykel Screech Continues

Just another update: The screeching has returned or continues. It does it on the start and during the rinse.

So my question is: Is it the Pump at this point?

The Cold Water On Diag Mode Works Fine
The Hot Water on Diag Mode Works Fine
The Drain Diag Mode Works Fine

Could high water pressure (over 100psi) cause this?


 o
RE: Fisher Paykel GWL11 Problem

Seems like the pump to me. The pump runs at the start (after a brief fill) for the EcoActive wash phase on Regular & Heavy, and of course during the drain & shower rinse & spin sequences after wash. The pump may turn off for a couple mins part-way through the final spin, then back on when the spin starts braking at the end. If the pump is the culprit, the noise should occur when running the pump in diagnostic mode.

Run a Perm Press cycle. Perm Press doesn't do an EcoActive wash, so the pump won't run until drain when the wash period is finished. If you have screeching right away, then it's possibly related to water pressure, or the main tub bearing (does it make the noise when turning the basket by hand?), or something related to the SmartDrive motor.

Testing the water valves in diagnostic confirms they work, but there could still be water pressure noise during use due to the machine controlling the valves to mix target temperatures. Per the specifications, incoming water pressure should not be less than 5psi or exceed 150psi.


 o
Fisher Paykel Pump Problem

Thanks again dadoes!

The sound happened for a brief moment or 2 during the start of the latest Regular Cycle - It didn't on my last PermPress Cycle. The sound also occurred during the Rinse Mode of the latest Regular Cycle...

I have tested the pump before, in Diagnostic mode, and have never gotten a peep out of it - I think I will try again.

The machine never makes noise when the basket is turning with no rinse or water recirculating.

It appears it is totally related to pump then...


 o
RE: Fisher Paykel GWL11 Problem

Good evening, My name is Ken and I try to fix things.
OK that the best at humor but I wanted to break the ice. My FP washer went out last Sunday. No power at board. I googled my way here and contacted dadoes shortly there after. I really want to say how much I appreciate his help during my dire times. He pointed me in the right direction and supplied useful links. I am purchasing a new pump and control module for my GWL11 from Sears. My wife found an internet coupon order and it saved me 40 bucks, 15% off parts order.So instead of 220 it cost 175.


 o
RE: Fisher Paykel GWL11 Problem

when washing it seems to take forever because when filling up with water it doesn't come out very fast especially during the rinse cycle. i've checked water pressure and everthing there is good. i've checked the screens thru and thru and nothing clogged. any sugestions?


 o
RE: Fisher Paykel GWL11 Problem

Rinses are always cold (except perhaps on the Woolens cycle). Assuming you did check the screen in the water valve at the machine-end of the hose, as well as the one at the faucet-end of the supply hose .. the next suspect is the cold water valve itself.


 o
RE: Fisher Paykel GWL11 Problem

the screens are all clean. It seems like sometimes water comes out fast and during the rinse cycles it takes forever and sometimes the machine will beep and you have to hit next to get it going again.


 o
RE: Fisher Paykel GWL11 Problem

How are you confirming the water is filling slow? Visually, or by how it sounds? I assume you've confirmed that the household water supply to the machine is feeding at full/normal pressure?

There's no "Next" button on a GWL11. Do you mean the Start button? Or is your machine not a GWL11? If the machine beeps/stops due to a problem, there normally should be an error code, interpreted by which lights are on and/or flashing on the panel. Next time it happens, make note of that.

Specifically, which cycle selection (Regular, Delicate, Heavy, Perm Press, Woolens) are you using when the problem occurs? Does it happen on all cycles? Does Softener Rinse have any effect on changing how the problem manifests?

One more thing to check ... make sure the drain hose isn't pushed down to far into the drain standpipe. The end of the hose must be above the machine's highest water level, or siphoning can occur.


 o
RE: Fisher Paykel GWL11 Problem

It is gwl11 machine. At the beginning of wash cycle it fills up fine. When it drains and starts to fill up again,
with the wash progress buttons with 3 green lights lit up it will keep beeping. you have to hit the power button than turn it back on and hit the arrow button on the right of the wash progess lights to get it to start again and that is when its like the water isn't going in very fast. I hope that helps and I appreciate the help! Its also like the basket is twitching when the water is going in slow.


 o
RE: Fisher Paykel GWL11 Problem

Sorry, I had overlooked the Advance button on the GWL11.

Again, if the machine is having a problem and stops, beeping (a single repeated beep or a musical tone) during the cycle, there normally should be an error code involved. The Cold light flashing, for example.

So, follow this procedure to check what's the last recorded fault code:

1. With the power off, press and hold Wash Temp Down, then press Power. You should get two short beeps and the panel lights up. Release both buttons. This is Diagnostic Mode.

2. Press the Spin Speed Up button three times (until the Hold and Slow lights are both lit. If you go too far, Spin Speed Down backs up the selection. The eight Wash Progress lights then indicate the last recorded fault code. Make note of which lights are on, in order from left to right and report back. The last recorded fault code may clear itself if no further fault occurs in eight successive cycles.

3. Press Power to turn off the machine and exit Diagnostic Mode.

Please clarify which cycle selection and options you are using. The Regular and Heavy Duty cycles do not refill for an agitated deep rinse unless the Softener Rinse option is used. If Softener Rinse is not selected, the machine does a shower rinse, which is several repetitions of saturation spray at a slow rotation (25 RPM) followed by a faster spin (670 RPM) to extract the soapy water, finishing with the final spin. Delicate, Woolens, and Perm Press on the other hand do run an agitated deep-fill rinse.

The basket floats slightly when the machine fills with water to disengage from the drive so the agitator can move separately. When the water drains, the basket settles back down to engage the drive cog. The motor pulses forward and back several times to check (by way of rotational inertia) that the basket has engaged. It's normal for that to happen after each drain sequence before spin starts. If the basket is "twitching" slightly back and forth when it shouldn't, such as during fill or the saturation sprays, that may indicate the drive cog is clogged with lint/debris and the basket isn't engaging on it properly.


 o
RE: Fisher Paykel GWL11 Problem

Doing as you asked on the wash progress you have 5 lights on the left and 3 on the right. from the left- first two lights are out- next 2 green are on- last light out. On the right side- orange and red are on. does that help? Also we use reg. cycle. I will check for lint or debris because that is what it sounds like it's doing.


 o
RE: Fisher Paykel GWL11 Problem

Assuming lights 3, 4, 7, and 8 are on, the code is #51 Diverter Valve Fault.

The diverter valve switches the water flow between recirculate and drain when the pump runs. If the diverter doesn't properly shift between the two modes, the machine will drain when it should be recirculating, or recirculate when it should drain. The diverter has nothing to do with how fast water sprays in from the fill flume ... so maybe you have more than one problem happening.

Do this test:

Get back into Diagnostic Mode as outlined in the previous reply (power off, hold Water Temp Down, press Power).

Then run the cold water by pressing Water Temp Down. Let it run to fill some water into the tub. Press Water Temp Down again to turn the water off when it has filled enough. Note you can turn the hot water on/off by pressing Water Temp Up. Observe if the cold water runs much slower compared to hot. If so, the cold valve may be bad.

Press the Delicate cycle button (light comes on) to activate the diverter valve. Wait a couple minutes. You have to wait when turning the diverter on or off because it works on a delay, it doesn't switch positions immediately.

Press the Regular cycle button (light comes on) to turn on the pump (leave Delicate on also). Water should shower out of the recirculation port at the right rear into the tub, and NO WATER should come out of the drain hose.

Press Delicate and Regular (lights off) to turn off the diverter and pump. Wait about three minutes.

Press the Regular button (light on) to turn on the pump. Water should drain, NO WATER should come out of the recirculation port. Let the pump run until the water drains completely out. This may take a few mins if it's recirculating at the same time.

If water drains or recirculates when it shouldn't, the diverter valve may have gone bad, or it could just be clogged with lint.

Confirm what happens in these tests, then I'll suggest how to proceed.


 o
RE: Fisher Paykel GWL11 Problem

I did all the test. When you have it on cold fill it just barely trickles in. On hot it poured in.When i hit reg. cycle it poured in out of the port. When I turned on the pump it drained out properly. Is it the cold water valve?


 o
RE: Fisher Paykel GWL11 Problem

Yes, cold water valve is the suspect. If you have a volt/ohm meter, it should read 64 ohms. I'd replace the valve, it's not expensive.

GWL11 Cold Valve


 o
RE: Fisher Paykel GWL11 Problem

I greatly thank you for all your help and I hope I wasn't too much of a pain. After I replace it I will let you know how it ends up, and again, thank you.


 o
RE: Fisher Paykel GWL11 Problem

I replaced the cold water valve and machine works like a new one. I appreciate all the help and info. Thank you!


 o
RE: Fisher Paykel GWL11 Problem

I have a GWL11USA. I stopped before going into the rinse cycle. After sitting for about 5 minutes it started to beep with the second green light on wash, first orange light on rinse and the red spin light. It will not drain. I unplugged it for about 5 min. Plugged it back in and started the cycle over it stopped in the same place and did the same thing. I don't have a manual so I don't know what this means. Grateful
for any help!!!!


 o
RE: Fisher Paykel GWL11 Problem

Code 37 Pump Blockage (water level in tub not dropping during drain)

If the pump IS running but the water does not drain, then the pump (or drain hose) may be blocked by lint accumulation, or the diverter valve has failed and is stuck in recirculate more instead of switching to drain.

Is there water in the machine now? Leave the machine off for several minutes, then follow the diagnostic procedure outlined above. Power off, press/hold Water Temp Down, press Power. Then press Regular to turn on the pump. If the pump runs and water showers back into the tub from the recirculation port instead of draining, then your diverter valve is not working.

If the pump runs but doesn't drain or recirculate, then the pump, tub outlet, diverter, or drain hose may be blocked with accumulated lint.

If the pump doesn't run, then it may be jammed, or the pump or controller board may be bad.


 o
RE: Fisher Paykel GWL11 Problem

Have a GWL11. sometime after wash cycle error 49 appeared. Cannot enter diagnostic mode. Can press the start button and fault lights clear, but lid lock remains on. Other than that, no other buttons respond or get me out of these two indications. Followed tech sheet and dadoes instructions for troubleshooting cold water inlet valve. Tested both at 63 ohms. seemed close enough. Have rest power for extended amounts of time. No Joy. Seems like a control board problem to me. Anybody concur. And for Approx. how much.


 o
RE: Fisher Paykel GWL11 Tub Bearing

I have a GWL11 that is making a lot of nocking noisee during high speed spin. I've pulled the tub out and the top seal once I discovered water had been leaking past it and by the bearing. When I spin the bearing it feels bad (binding and not smooth spin). I don't have a service manual and don't know how to get the bearing out and back in or what part numbers to order for the machine. After pulling the top seal it looks like there is another seal in the tube and another free floating metal tube just above the bearing. These also show signs of leaking water. Do they also need to be replaced? Can someone give me part numbers and directions on how to replace the parts. Thank you.


 o
RE: Fisher Paykel GWL11 Problem

Parts can be obtained from www.SearsPartsDirect.com or direct from F&P (888-936-7872). Sears also has parts diagrams showing the unit's construction.

Another source www.FisherPaykelParts.net offers two bearings and a seal together as a bundled kit.

Service info indicates that specific tools are needed to properly seat the bearings ... although perhaps it can be done without them. I would e-mail the info to you, but you don't have an e-mail address on your Gardenweb user account.


 o
RE: Fisher Paykel GWL11 Problem

Hi, I have a 4 year old GWL11 that I replaced the pump on about 4 months ago. I recently started getting a 37 error code. When I go into diagnostic mode and push the regular button the pump will run for about 10 sec then stop. I can not get it to come back on again until I power the machine off and let it set for a period of time. Is it possible that a). this new pump has gone bad? b). the control module is bad? c). there is a thermal overload on the pump?
I am really confused and would love some direction....
Thanks!


 o
RE: Fisher Paykel GWL11 Problem

Yes, the pump motor has a thermal overload.

Look under the machine, check if there's debris caught on the cooling fan. Also remove the pump and check for lint/strings wrapped around/under the impeller.

Could also been a bum new pump. You could try oiling it if the bearing seems tight.


 o
RE: Fisher Paykel GWL11 Problem

Thanks, its strange because it pumps but just for about 10 sec then quits. I have pulled it out and checked to make sure there was nothing blocking or stuck in the impeller. Everything is clear. It just seems like it runs for a short period, shuts off and then won't run again for a while (until it cools off I presume). F&P says the pump would be under warranty but I would have to pay a service tech to come out and verify it's bad...$85 service call or $75 pump. Is it possible that I have a faulty control board? I just replaced the diverter valve and the pump recently so there really isn't much else that it could be, is there?


 o
RE: Fisher Paykel GWL11 Problem

I have a similar problem with my GWL11 as one listed above. The machine quit during the middle of a cycle. There is good power to the machine, but it won't power on at all. I took of the display panel cover -- I don't see or smell any of the tell-tale signs of arching/shorting. So...

(1) Can someone provide a service manual?
(2) Are there some simple fuses or resets I should check?
(3) Is there some multimeter testing I can do to prevent just throwing parts at this thing?

BTW -- my machine has had some of the same squealing problems others describe. I've messed with the drain tube height, but never completely got that to go away. Sometimes it wouldn't happen at all...other times it seems like it happened with every load. The load that was in the machine at the time it quite was a reasonably heavy bedspread. I have no idea whether these to factors (the ongoing pump squeal or this particular load) could have contributed to this current no power problem.

Thanks in advance for your help!


 o
RE: Fisher Paykel GWL11 Problem

Raising or lowering the drain hose is unlikely to have an effect on a squealing noise. You infer that the noise had been going on for some period of time (months?). Depends on the source of it. Could be the drive shaft bearings, or the pump. If the noise was coming from a bad/leaking pump (doesn't have to be a big leak, just enough to get the pump wet), it likely has shorted out and killed the controller board. A bad pump MUST be replaced ASAP on these machines or a simple $70 pump replacement becomes a $300 pump + control board.

There are no resets or replaceable fuses.

You can check the pump with a meter. It should read approx 7 ohms resistance. If the pump is obviously corroded/rusted from leaking, there's probably no need to put the meter on it.

Is that a valid e-mail address on your GardenWeb user profile?


 o
RE: Fisher Paykel GWL11 Problem

Thanks for the reply. Yes, the e-mail address is right (it's a local government work address, so it looks a bit different). What you've said makes sense. The squealing noise had been going on for quite awhile -- I'll dig in there and check it out.

Just to be clear -- when you talk about the controller board, do you mean the circuit board under the display (QE2GW), or the motor controller (SD11)?


 o
RE: Fisher Paykel GWL11 Problem

Motor controller board.

Service info e-mailed.

Before you attack the pump, some disassembly instructions: No tools are needed to remove the pump. It mounts to a metal plate under the tub. Unplug the machine, tip it back for access beneath. Remove the pump wire harness & separate ground wire. Find a plastic latch on the mounting plate, hold the latch released and rotate the pump body counterclockwise to detach it from the mounting plate. The shroud that covers the windings should be removable for a better look at it to observe for burning or corrosion. When reattaching the pump, lubricate the seal face around the impeller with liquid (dish) detergent to facilitate rotating it into position.


 o
RE: Fisher Paykel GWL11 Problem

Okay -- I haven't been able to get that e-mail yet, but thanks for the service info. And for the pointers about the pump. First thing I'll have to do is get all that load out.

BTW -- there's another post that sounds exactly like my issue (4th one down by "gsmotz1"). I did the same thing this guy did. I took the Motor Control CB out of the brown plastic case and put an ohm meter across the 6.3a fuse (the first thing past the power input). It's wide open. There's a similar looking 1a fuse near the hot/cold take-off lead on the CB, and it checks fine -- no resistance at all. So, I'm really hoping I might be able to fix this CB by soldering in a new fuse. (See if I've still got the skills from my USCG Avionics training.) I guess I figure I can't make it any worse since it's already broken, eh?

Thanks again for your help. I'll check out the pump tonight.


 o
RE: Fisher Paykel GWL11 Problem

Individual components on the board aren't intended to be serviced, but as you say, there's no harm in trying if the board is already possibly gone bad. The pump must be changed first if it's a goner, else the fuse likely will blow again.


 o
RE: Fisher Paykel GWL11 Problem

Hello. This is my first time here and I am so grateful to find this resource. Thank you for doing this.

I have a GWL11 that stopped draining. At first I hired a technician. He didn't seem very knowledgeable. He didn't have a service manual with him, but based on the sheet he found under the control panel he thought it had a bad diverter valve. He told me that with labor and parts the repair would cost about $400. I paid him nearly $100 for the visit.

I ordered a replacement valve and installed it with no difficulty, but the machine still doesn't drain. The pump works fine as far as I can tell. Water recirculates and cold and hot water also fills.

After I replaced the valve was I supposed to do something to reset the electronics? In any case, now when I enter diagnostic mode I immediately see the following pattern of LEDs.

* * o

The "*" means BLINKING. The "o" means OFF. The "" means ON.

Can you tell me what I did wrong and what is that code trying to tell me? Thanks very much!


 o
RE: Fisher Paykel GWL11 Problem

Modified quote from my post above dated Apr 10, 09 at 3:28 --

Do this test:

- Get into Diagnostic Mode (power off, hold Water Temp Down, press Power).

- Run the cold water by pressing Water Temp Down, fill some water into the tub. Press Water Temp Down again to turn the water off when it has filled enough.

- Press the Delicate cycle button (light comes on) to activate the diverter valve. Wait a couple minutes. You have to wait when turning the diverter on or off because it works on a delay, it doesn't switch positions immediately.

- Press the Regular cycle button (light comes on) to turn on the pump (leave Delicate on also). Water should shower out of the recirculation port at the right rear into the tub, and NO WATER should come out of the drain hose.

- Press Delicate and Regular (lights off) to turn off the diverter and pump. Wait about three minutes.

- Press the Regular button (light on) to turn on the pump. Water should drain, NO WATER should come out of the recirculation port. If water recirculates when it should be draining, the diverter valve may have gone bad or it may be clogged with lint.

Or, since you have already replaced the diverter, then the controller board may have gone bad and is keeping the diverter engaged continuously. If you have a volt/ohm meter, you can check for 120v at the diverter terminals when the machine is otherwise turned off. I'm wondering if this is what your service tech meant in regards to $400 for the repair, being as that cost is outrageous for just a diverter valve replacement.

Regards to your Diagnostic display ... upon first entering Diagnostic Mode, it's in Level 0 which provides the Last User Warning Number, but the pattern of cycle lights you report doesn't match any of the info I have. There are only seven -- No hot water, no cold water, no water at all, off-balance, overloaded, oversuds, lid open (can't lock for spin).

To check what is the recorded Fault Code (which is different than User Warnings), press Spin Speed up three times for Level 0, both Hold and Slow should be lit. Then read the code from the cycle lights.


 o
RE: Fisher Paykel GWL11 Problem

Thanks dadoes. I went straight to testing the voltage at the diverter terminals while the machine was plugged in but otherwise turned off. There was no voltage. (I unplugged the DV from the wires and touched the multimeter leads to the female connectors at the end of the wires.) Are there further tests I can perform on the controller board to verify that it is the problem?

Also, regarding the diagnostic display, I went into diagnostic mode and then pressed down on the Spin button until the slow and hold lights were lit. The odd display pattern I described was gone and the next time I went into diagnostic mode there were no lights.


 o
RE: Fisher Paykel GWL11 Problem

Also, regarding the diagnostic display, I went into diagnostic mode and then pressed down on the Spin button until the slow and hold lights were lit. The odd display pattern I described was gone and the next time I went into diagnostic mode there were no lights.
Did you do the recirculation and drain tests I described?

I made a typo on the previous reply. It should read "Press Spin Speed Up three times for Level 3, both Hold and Slow should be lit."

The fault code auto-clears if no further faults occur in the next eight cycles. You might consider running a full cycle to see if it does generate a fault.

Check voltage at the diverter when it's activated, should be approximately 100v AC. The service info says "not strictly AC, rectified mains. Fluke meters read approx 100 V AC or 220 V DC (rms) depending on meter." If the board is sending voltage and the diverter isn't shifting, then it may be jammed with debris (such as a coin) or you may have gotten a bad new diverter.


 o
RE: Fisher Paykel GWL11 Problem

This time I did the recirculation and drain tests. The diverter valve does not change position (water recirculates no matter what).

In your first post you said I can "...check for 120v at the diverter terminals when the machine is otherwise turned off." In your next post you said I could check voltage "...at the diverter when it's activated." Does this mean I can check voltage while the machine is in diagnostic mode and the Delicate button is ON, or at another diagnostic configuration?

BTW, the original diverter valve had no visible blockage or problem.

I suppose I could run a full cycle to find out the error code, but I hesitate to do that because of all the water I'd have to drain by hand (for the 3rd time), since previously the tub wouldn't drain.

Is there an independent way to test the diverter valve: say with a known good source of voltage?


 o
RE: Fisher Paykel GWL11 Problem

Tip the machine back so you can get access beneath. Set it to Diagnostics, press Delicate to turn on the diverter, and check for voltage at the diverter valve terminals. Insert the meter probes into the back of the wire terminals while they're connected to the valve. I checked my IWL12 just now. With the diverter turned on, my reading is 120 volts AC.

Also check the resistance reading on the valve (remove the wires, test directly on the valve terminals). It should be between 700 ohms and 2,500 ohms depending on the temperature since it was last turned on (it heats up when activated). If outside that range, the valve is suspect. Mine reads 1,720 ohms currently.

However, I think your problem is with the diverter, either something physical is wrong, or it's just bad (even if new). It shifts to recirculate position only when it's turned on. In a neutral state, when not receiving voltage, the diverter should by default shift to drain position, and stay there until power is applied. If the voltage readings are OK (no voltage when the valve is off, 120v when it's on), then I'd suggest removing the valve and examine it for a problem, such as something jammed inside or the linkage to the valve flapper is broken.


 o
RE: Fisher Paykel GWL11 Problem

Thanks for the instructions. The resistance on the newly installed diverter is 1,130 ohms. Voltage while in diagnostics mode with the Delicates button ON is 120.4 volts. You wrote that when not receiving voltage, the diverter should shift to drain position, but still with the machine plugged in and power turned off, I can see 120 volts at those terminals. It looks like the power at the diverter never goes away!


 o
RE: Fisher Paykel GWL11 Problem

Hmmm. You said above on 8/13 at 13:34:
I went straight to testing the voltage at the diverter terminals while the machine was plugged in but otherwise turned off. There was no voltage.
But now you say there is voltage, so apparently something didn't test quite right the first time. Constant voltage at the diverter indicates a bad controller board.

You could try this test. Disconnect the wires from the diverter. Wait 10 mins to insure it has cooled and shifted to drain mode. Pour in a gallon of water, get in Diagnostics and run the pump (don't engage the diverter, just the pump with the Regular button), see if it drains.


 o
RE: Fisher Paykel GWL11 Problem

I bought a new multimeter for the more recent measurements. I was suspecting my older and cheaper one of giving me bad readings.

I disconnected the wires from the diverter, waited and ran the pump. Success! ...in a way. At least this isolates the problem. Is there anything I can do with the controller board to fix it? Or is it time for a new one?

Can you recommend a vendor if I have to get a new one? The machine is a GWL10 US.


 o
RE: Fisher Paykel GWL11 Problem

The controller boards unfortunately aren't designed to be field-repaired, full replacement is needed. It's also relatively expensive.

FisherPaykelParts.net (not related to F&P parent company) lists it at $189.50

SearsPartsDirect.com is $199.99

You could also try calling F&P directly at 888-936-7872. GWL10 board is Part Number 426930P. There's also eBay, and local appliance servicers if you have any.


 o
RE: Fisher Paykel GWL11 Problem

I just now ordered it from FisherPaykelParts.net. Refurbished. Do you know if installation instructions are included?


 o
RE: Fisher Paykel GWL11 Problem

Typically an instruction sheet is included, but I can't say for sure. In some cases a newer board with minor differences is substituted for an older original part, but I'd expect this is a direct replacement. GWL10 has unique electrical characteristics, the board isn't used on any other U.S. model. MAKE SURE you are getting the correct board. In your first post above you say it's a GWL11, then later change to GWL10.

I see you have a contact e-mail on your GardenWeb profile. I've sent a service manual to you.

I also must state this disclaimer: Being as I don't have physical access to the machine and am diagnosing from afar, correct reporting of the symptoms and details, ultimate diagnosis of the problem, and any replacement parts, wrong or right, are your responsibility. :-)


 o
RE: Fisher Paykel GWL11 Problem

Follow-up on my problem posted on Aug 9:

Thanks so much to "dadoes" for the repair manuals and advice on the problem. Indeed, the pump was bad. There was obvious signs it had been leaking/wet, and I got a dead short with a a resistance check across the terminals. So, I found a brand new replacement on eBay -- only $61 delivered.

Of course, the pump wasn't the only problem. When it failed, it took out the control board. BUT, I took a clue from the June 23 post by "gsmotz1" and found that the 6.3a fuse on the board was wide open. I know the circuit board isn't intended to be field repaired, but I have a little bit of electronic experience -- and I figured it couldn't hurt to try.

I found the replacement fuse for just $0.89 at digikey.com (http://tinyurl.com/264u628) -- that sure beats $190 for a new board. Sure enough, I removed the bad fuse, soldered in the new one, put everything back together, and, VIOLA!...my machine is back in service, and both my wife and my wallet are happy.

Thanks again!


 o
RE: Fisher Paykel GWL11 Problem

Nice! ... and fortunate that no other board components were damaged. Makes one wonder how many of these blown boards are repairable via a simple fuse replacement ... and question why manufacturers don't facilitate fuse replacement via socket mount. Of course, there's the risk that some other board component is bad and putting it back into service could take out other machine parts such as water valves, display board, RPS, etc.


 o
RE: Fisher Paykel GWL11 Problem

Thanks dadoes. I made sure to read the model number on the machine before ordering the replacement board. I ordered a 426930P Machine Control for the GWL10 US from fisherpaykelparts.net. It arrived today. All that came with it is a one-sided single sheet for "SmartDrive Size Setting Instructions".

I'm sorry I didn't get the service manual. Maybe it was blocked by my mail filter. What was the subject line of the message? Maybe I can find it that way.


 o
RE: Fisher Paykel GWL11 Problem

I installed the replacement board. When all wires were re-attached I noticed that the replacement board has one more connector onboard than the original one and that the part number of the replacement is 426930P, but the original board part number is 426930 (with no P). The unused connector on the replacement board (because my machine doesn't have any more wires to connect to it) is labeled 'Diverter'.

The original board also has "H1 H3 Pass" printed on it. It was made in 2002. The replacement board has "Smartdrive Pass" printed on it. It was made in Thailand in January 2010. The replacement came from fisherpaykelparts.net expressly for the GWL10 US/U2 Washer.

It's puzzling. Did Fisher & Paykel revise the design of part 426930 to provide an independent circuit for the diverter? In every other respect (other than this one onboard connector labeled "Diverter") the plugs and connectors on both boards are labeled the same, look the same, and accept the same wires with their existing connectors.

I haven't turned on the power yet because I'm not sure what else has changed on the replacement and whether I might harm the board or other parts connected to the board.


 o
RE: Fisher Paykel GWL11 Problem

"H1 H3 Pass" & "Smartdrive Pass" are likely related to bench-testing.

Per the GWL10 service info, it should have a separate wiring lead (black and orange wires) for the diverter. Is your machine different in that respect? Where is your diverter connected on the new board vs. where was it on the old board? Or did you maybe lose the diverter lead somewhere inside or under the console?


 o
RE: Fisher Paykel GWL11 Problem

GWL11 not draining. Fault Code 39 listed. When pump is activated I hear a grinding sound but no water enters or leaves. Is it safe to assume that there is either something blocking the pump or the diverter valve?


 o
RE: Fisher Paykel GWL11 Problem

Greetings, farberm.

Code 39 is Pressure Tube Fault - Probable cause blocked or kinked pressure tube or it has disconnected from the tub or controller board. Secondary cause, pressure sensor module on the controller board has failed.

The controller may occasionally misinterpret a malfunction condition and generate a fault code that's related but slightly off-target. Failure to drain normally generates Code 37 Blocked Pump (no change in water level). This differs from Code 39 in that for Code 37 the controller board is getting a valid reading from the pressure sensor, but there's no decrease in the pressure as would be expected while the pump is running for drain. Code 39, there's no pressure reading at all.

The diverter is silent during operation, it wouldn't make any grinding noises. Most likely a foreign object is caught in the tub outlet, rubbing on the pump impeller.

Get under the machine, try spinning the pump (via the cooling fan) by hand, see if there's resistance, something jamming it. Assuming so, you can remove the pump to check what's in there, or go from the top by removing the inner basket and tub outlet cap. Removing the pump is easy, no tools needed. Disconnect the pump wires. Locate a plastic latch on the pump mounting plate, hold the latch released and rotate the pump counterclockwise to detach it from the mounting plate. DO NOT remove the mounting plate.

If there's water in the tub that won't drain you'll need to bail it out to pull the pump or you'll obviously have a flood. Problem is that even with bailing, there'll be some water left in the tub below the basket that you can't reach so there'll still be some flooding. For that reason you may want to go from the top.


 o
RE: Fisher Paykel GWL11 Problem

Hello. I would like to follow up on the replacement controller issues I had (for a GWL10, not as I first thought for a GWL11).

According to a technician at fisherpaykelparts.net, where I purchased the replacement, 426930P is the correct part for the GWL10 U2/US.

The new board has a harness for the diverter identical to my original part: two leads soldered directly to the board at a spot labeled "Recirc. Valve." They end at a white molded connector that attaches to leads coming from the diverter at a matching connector.

The extra socket mounted on the board, labeled "Diverter," must be for other versions of the washer that make use of the same replacement.

So I installed the replacement, set the size of the washer per instructions that came with the part, tested the diverter in diagnostic mode, and finally ran a fully loaded wash cycle, and my machine works again!

Thank you, Dadoes, for the information you offer here so generously.


 o
RE: Fisher Paykel GWL11 Problem

Hello. I would like to follow up on the replacement controller issues I had (for a GWL10, not as I first thought for a GWL11).

According to a technician at fisherpaykelparts.net, where I purchased the replacement, 426930P is the correct part for the GWL10 U2/US.

The new board has a harness for the diverter identical to my original part: two leads soldered directly to the board at a spot labeled "Recirc. Valve." They end at a white molded connector that attaches to leads coming from the diverter at a matching connector.

The extra socket mounted on the board, labeled "Diverter," must be for other versions of the washer that make use of the same replacement.

So I installed the replacement, set the size of the washer per instructions that came with the part, tested the diverter in diagnostic mode, and finally ran a fully loaded wash cycle, and my machine works again!

Thank you, Dadoes, for the information you offer here so generously.


 o
RE: Fisher Paykel GWL11 Problem blown fuse

I have a similar problem with my GWL11 as one listed above. The machine quit during the middle of a cycle. There is good power to the machine, but it won't power on at all. I took off the display panel cover -- I don't see or smell any of the tell-tale signs of arching/shorting. So...
(1) Can someone provide a service manual?
(2) Are there some simple fuses or resets I should check?
(3) Is there some multimeter testing I can do to prevent just throwing parts at this thing?

When it failed, it took out the control board. BUT, I took a clue from the June 23 post by "gsmotz1" and found that the 6.3a fuse on the board was wide open. I know the circuit board isn't intended to be field repaired, but I have a little bit of electronic experience -- and I figured it couldn't hurt to try. I then plugged it in and it tried to run but had grinding noise so unplugged machine, and will wait to hopefully get some service manual info so I can enter diagnostic mode and troubleshoot using the fault codes via the display lights. Thank you so much in advance for any info that someone is willing to email me. Von


 o
RE: Fisher Paykel GWL11 Problem

I get a screeching and low water flow during initial fill only. It happens mainly during colder weather, 40-50 degrees in SoCal. It seems that a valve is not opening all the way. After about 30 seconds to a minute of filling it works correctly. Suggestions on a fix?


 o
RE: Fisher Paykel GWL11 Problem

Run the valves manually via diagnostic mode (hot and cold separately to determine if the noise is related to one or both) to confirm the behavior and observe that both valves do run at full flow. Replacement is in order if either one is obviously having a problem. The hot & cold valves are different, not interchangeable, so be sure to get the correct part(s). If as you say the problem clears up after a 30 to 60 seconds, your choice whether to replace or wait until/if the problem gets worse.

You need to confirm also that the noise is NOT coming from the pump ... if so, the pump must be examined and replaced IMMEDIATELY if there is evidence of leaking.


 o
RE: Fisher Paykel GWL11 Problem

Did not describe the problem correctly. Initial fill with cold, hot or warm water is fine. It's is when the eco-active phase starts that the screeching starts. It seems like the diverter valve is not opening 100%. It starts with low water flow and screeching for a short period of time then noise goes away and full water flow starts. Problem is worse in cold weather or when the machine has not been used in a wile.
dadoes?


 o
RE: Fisher Paykel GWL11 Problem

The diverter is unlikely to be a source of noise, screeching or other. It doesn't open or close per se ... it's always open one direction or the other, it just shifts between recirculate and drain. If it doesn't fully shift, then water will pump to both the recirculate and drain hoses at the same time.

More likely, your pump is going bad ... bearings binding until it runs for a couple mins and loosens up.


 o
Fisher Paykel GWL11 won't turn on

Machine was working fine. 30 minutes later went to use and it will not power on. Unplugged for 60 seconds, checked outlet...still nothing. I unscrewed the control panel and nothing was disconnected. Any ideas?


 o
RE: Fisher Paykel GWL11 Problem

What specific model? Dead machine is usually a blown controller board ... but the reason it blew, if there's an extenuating circumstance, must be determined and corrected before replacing the board or the replacement probably will also blow.


 o
RE: Fisher Paykel GWL11 Problem

dadoes, any chance i could get you to e-mail me a copy of the gwl11 service manual pdf as well. thanks


 o
RE: Fisher Paykel GWL11 Problem

replaced controller and pump motor. plugged in and pushed the power button. The amber LED on the far left side blinks. Pushed start and the machine beeps and the far right wash LED and the spin LED are on and the other LEDs are off. What is the problem?


 o
RE: Fisher Paykel GWL11 Problem

Possibly a Machine Size error. When a new controller is installed, it must be set for the machine size (physical size of the basket). F&P machines on the Aus/NZ market are sold in three capacity sizes. U.S. models are all the largest size but the size must still be set into the controller. There should be instructions with the replacement controller on how to set the size. If not ....

With power Off, press/hold Wash Temp Up, then press Power at the same time. Should get four short beeps and the panel activates. Release the buttons. Press the Spin Speed Up button to turn on the Hold light (largest size, 650mm basket diameter, 8.0kg/17.6lb capacity). Press Power to exit and save the setting.


 o
RE: Fisher Paykel GWL11 Problem

Hi dadoes!

I wanted to say thanks for your posts ... extremely helpful!
I had a code for a bad RPS on a GWL11, so I ordered an RPS and Control Module and replaced both. Afterwards I was getting an intermittent diverter fault. I used your instructions for testing the diverter and alternated the flow between drain and recirculate. The flow was good but then a safety pin and lint chunk spit out. I set to continuous recycle mode and to stop on fault to see if everything is now clear.

I am really liking this washer. It gives you a lot of ability to trouble-shoot and repair if anything goes wrong. I've had for about 6 years with no problems. I expect to keep it and continue to trouble-shoot if issues arise until parts cease. Do you think it is a good idea to put a power surge protector on this? Thanks again!


 o
RE: Fisher Paykel GWL11 Problem

Surge protector, yes, absolutely.


 o
RE: Fisher Paykel GWL11 Problem

Dadoes could you please email me the service manual for the GWL11? I love this machine, but the power button is not functioning. Thank you! srohwer@gmail.com


 o
RE: Fisher Paykel GWL11 Problem

Can a bad water pump cause the GWL11 not to power on? No leaks, started with a grinding noise, then no power. Husband took pump out and it looks worn out, ordered a new one today. Just wondering and hoping it caused the power problem.


 o
RE: Fisher Paykel GWL11 Problem

Billi, only if the bad pump has already killed the controller board ... in which case the board must also be replaced.

GWL10 has the pump as part of the main power circuit, so a dead pump will make the entire machine dead. GWL11 is not wired that way. A dead pump on GWL11 will *not* by itself make the machine non-responsive.


 o
RE: Fisher Paykel GWL11 Problem

New question....We replaced both parts, (did the sizing too) now we have default code 43. The switch & harness look good & the oob spring seems fine. It will start but the water comes out in spurts and it will not cycle. Can u please give us some ideas?

Thanks,

Billi


 o
RE: Fisher Paykel GWL11 Problem

43 = OOB (out of balance) switch fault, "permanently" on or wires disconnected.

Check that the switch and lever are not physically jammed, examine the switch and wire connections at both ends for evidence of corrosion or improper connection, confirm the machine is not grossly off-level and that the bias spring (anchors the tub to the front/left suspension strut) is in place. The switch can be checked with a multimeter to confirm if it may be stuck internally, it's a simple off/on microswitch.

OOB can be checked for operation via Diagnostic Mode. Power off, press/hold Wash Temp Down, then press Power at the same time, release when the panel comes on. Press Spin Speed Up or Down repeatedly until the MED light is on. Pushing the tub toward the right/rear to activate the switch should turn on the 4th wash progress light. The light should be off when the switch is not engaged.


 o
RE: Fisher Paykel GWL11 Problem

dadoes,

We just did what u posted and it went thru exactly as u said. Now what? :) Really appreciate your helping us!


 o
RE: Fisher Paykel GWL11 Problem

Going to jump into the fray here...new problem.

I've got error code 66...ie, second wash and second rinse LEDs are one accompanied by beeping. I've even had it happen when there wasn't a load of laundry being done.

I ran all other tests and everything comes back normal. Any ideas?

Thanks in advance everyone!


 o
RE: Fisher Paykel GWL11 Problem

herfarm, check the OOB switch with a multimeter to confirm it isn't "leaking" current through when in the Off position that the board would read as a trip. It should test either infinity (max resistance) in the Off position) or zero ohms resistance in the On position.

A bad motor controller board is a possibility. :-(


 o
RE: Fisher Paykel GWL11 Problem -- Fault 66

Ytsejamer1, I responded to your e-mail but am also replying here for benefit of others finding the thread.

Fault 66 is related to the water level pressure sensor on the controller board. It's sending a signal to the board outside (higher than) the normal frequency range. The stated fix is replacement of the controller board. The pressure sensor is integral to the board.


 o
RE: Fisher Paykel GWL11 Problem

dadoes...thanks again! I also checked the drain pump for any signs of leakage or water stains around the motor. Everything aside from a little dust was in good shape. There was no burnt electrical smell. After that, I checked around the water inlets, inspecting the grommet to make sure there was no signs of leakage there...and there wasn't. The rubber was fairly soft as well...not hard and dried out. Everything was perfectly dry and looking good.

At this point, I was fairly confident it was just the motor control board and not something else causing the board to short out.

Ordered it here: http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-number/420094USP/0026/426&pathTaken=partSearch&blt=14&prst=&shdPart=420094USP and used coupon code: PARTS to save 10%. Every little bit helps I suppose.

We'll see what flies...my wife has four loads of laundry needing to be done!!! :)


 o
RE: Fisher Paykel GWL11 Problem

Problem solved! The new motor control board did the trick. I received the newer revision of the board, so it took a bit of time to get the wires run, but everything went in fine. Works perfect.


 o
RE: Fisher Paykel GWL11 Problem

I have been having the screeching problem with my GWL11. It's been happening for a week or so. Lately I have occasionally noticed a little water on the floor after a wash. Today, we had a flood of water after a wash, as if much of the rinse water leaked onto the floor. Does this sound like a bad pump? Dadoes would you please give your opinion? Also, would you please email the service manual to me? Thanks very much.


 o
RE: Fisher Paykel GWL11 Problem

Rosey192,

DO NOT continue to use the machine with a suspect leaking pump. There's too much risk of a water-damaged pump shorting out and blowing the controller board, which turns a simple $80 pump replacement into a $250 to $300 situation of replacing BOTH the pump and controller board. Simple matter to look under the machine and/or remove the pump for a visual examination to determine evidence of leaking (rusting and/or mineral deposits on it), or bad bearings.


 o
RE: Fisher Paykel GWL11 Problem

dadoes,
Thank you for your reply. Controller board seems to be still ok. Machine is now unplugged and water to it has been turned off. It cannot be used. I've looked at the pump. It seems to turn. Not sure how to tell if bearings are bad. Don't think I have rust. Something from the machine is definitely leaking though. We do have very hard water. Is there another likely leak? Or can you give me a little more info about how to diagnose the pump? I was considering replacing it as the most likely problem due to both the squealing and leaking, but don't want to be throwing money away. Thanks for your thoughts


 o
RE: Fisher Paykel GWL11 Problem

Rosey192,

I replied to your e-mail, but am following-up here also. The pump does need replacement if it's squealing, even if it's not the leak source. You need to confirm if that's the situation by either test-running the pump or removing it for direct examination, or both. Regards to the leak, there are several possible sources, the pump being one.


 o
RE: Fisher Paykel GWL11 Problem

hello we also have a problem with the F&P washer GWL11 it will not turn on at all no lights at all...i pulled the drain pump out and there is corosion (though it spins freely)so should i replace that and the control board?
any help is greatly appreciated.


 o
RE: Fisher Paykel GWL11 Problem

Yes. Dead machine + corroded pump = bad/leaking pump + dead board. Unfortunate you didn't catch the bad pump before it zapped the board. The replacement pump should include a fuse/holder to be added into the pump wires. Be sure to follow the instructions for GWL11 (splice the fuse into the BROWN pump wire inside the console).


 o
RE: Fisher Paykel GWL11 Problem

Nice to see my thread still going - Thanks to dadoes for all of your help so long ago - we never solved our various issues. But, since we were temporarily moving, and needed to put a washer in essentially an outside space, I thought why get a new one. In a few short weeks we will be moving into a new home and will need a new washer and dryer.

Our GWL11 unit still screeches with colder water and has the same strange long cycling in the spin and rinse modes, but it cleans. We may sell it to our current landlord for $50-75...

We are currently thinking of the top of the line Bravos TL for our new house...


 o
RE: Fisher Paykel GWL11 Problem

Fasher & Paykel...error code 53. Washing machine not working. 3 weeks ago it stopped working after the rinse cycle. took the panel with the lights off and cleaned the 2 wires (white and yellow ) that go into a small box underneath. Couldnt remember which wire went where !!! all worked well for 2 weeks with the machine stopping 2 more times. did the same thing and worked well. Now I get error code 53. wont put water in. stops and beeps. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks


 o
RE: Fisher Paykel GWL11 Problem

Yellow and white wires may be the lid switch (to a small box beneath where?). The two wires should be together on one connector plug at the control board so I'm not understanding why you weren't clear on where to reconnect them.

Code 53 is related to the RPS (Rotor Position Sensor) which is a component inside the SmartDrive motor that reads the motor's motion and reports it to the controller board. Specifically for Code 53, the controller board has sent motion commands to the motor and the RPS reported that it turned in the wrong direction. Causes are 1) A wiring problem (such as corrosion or disconnection) either at the RPS or the wires from it that connect at the controller board; 2) The RPS module is bad; 3) The motor controller board is bad.

SearsPartsDirect.com lists the RPS (part number 420296P) at $28.20. Replacement involves removing the motor rotor, then the stator for access to the RPS module.


 o
RE: Fisher Paykel GWL11 Problem

Yo, dadoes....

I have been interested in FP's way of doing things for a number of years but have been put off by the reviews and postings of troubles. Do you think they're getting better at with the current models?


 o
RE: Fisher Paykel GWL11 Problem

Fasher & Paykel...error code 53. Washing machine not working. 3 weeks ago it stopped working after the rinse cycle. took the panel with the lights off and cleaned the 2 wires (white and yellow ) that go into a small box underneath. Couldnt remember which wire went where !!! all worked well for 2 weeks with the machine stopping 2 more times. did the same thing and worked well. Now I get error code 53. wont put water in. stops and beeps. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks


 o
RE: Fisher Paykel GWL11 Problem

Anne1109, your first post of 4/13/2012 1:57 has a reply from me immediately following it at 4/13/2012 9:40. You don't see that reply above?


 o
RE: Fisher Paykel GWL11 Problem

i have tryed all the help to trouble shoot my cold water slow. i went in the diag mode and the water will flow fast but wnhen in the auto mode still slow. I tryed in the manual mode and still the same. Could the cold valve be bad?


 o
RE: Fisher Paykel GWL11 Problem

mi97tbird --

I assume your reference to "auto mode" vs. "manual mode" is regards to auto-sensing water level and manual water level selection. The water valves work the same either way, the water level selection has no effect on their functioning.

Your cold valve could be bad ... you've confirmed good flow in Diagnostics on *both* hot and cold? Hot and cold should run at full flow in Diagnostics. During fill periods when a cycle is running, the machine modulates the valves to attain specific incoming temperatures as registered by a sensor in the console ... so the flow may be slower then depending on what it needs to do to attain the target temperature mix.


 o
RE: Fisher Paykel GWL11 Problem

Question, I tried running the diagnostics as per the instruction sheet in the machine. No response. I continue to get beeping, and alternatively the lid lock light constantly on. I unplugged the machine for 5 minutes. No response when I attempted the diagnostics. Its very simple to replace the lid lock assembly ($70 - $90 dollars, but I don't want to replace until I ascertain that that is the problem. Any ideas out there?


 o
RE: Fisher Paykel GWL11 Problem

Check the lock with a volt/ohm meter for proper resistance reading. There are two different lid locks listed in the service info (P/N 420036P and P/N 420429), but all the parts diagrams I find reference only 420429. It should read 63 ohms +/- 10%. Disconnect the wiring harness from the control board and test across the terminals in the plug. The lid lock and off-balance switch are on the same plug, follow the wires from the plug back to the lock to determine which to test.

The controller board should momentarily pulse output at approx 30V DC on the lock terminals when initially triggering the lock, then settle at approx 10V DC when the lock is engaged.

However, your problem could also be a bad controller board, especially since it's not accepting diagnostic commands. A bad lid lock may not prevent diagnostics. The board would reasonably trigger a fault code if it reads the lock as bad ... for example, as it does immediately upon connection to power if either of the water valves is disconnected or shorted.


 o
RE: Fisher Paykel GWL11 Problem

I have the GW10 and experienced the no power problem. Just ordered a new pump. he file here shows rust etc on the opposite end of the copper windings. I place the multimeter probes on the two spaded connection at the copper windings end and get a reading of 24.2 roughly. I read it should be 33-34? Is it possible my board is OK? No burned smell or evidence inside the console. Pump is on its way. This happened during draining cycle which spurred the beeping. After opening the lid to look inside, the machine did not start up from pause...unplugged let sit and then plugged in and nothing...i'll post a file showing the MM readout hopefully I am testing it properly??


 o
RE: Fisher Paykel GWL11 Problem

Am i doing this correctly?


 o
RE: Fisher Paykel GWL11 Problem

As stated in posts above, GWL10 has a different electrical design than other models. Main power runs through the pump so a dead pump (tripped-out on thermal overheat, electrically shorted/dead) will effectively make the machine dead ... and of course the machine will be "dead" if there's no pump installed.

There's no direct way to test the control board (other than perhaps swapping it to another machine).

Seems your pump is neither tripped nor fully dead, else it'd read zero on the meter. Resistance should be 33 ohms nominally. 24 is suspect, and it could skew further when the pump gets heated from running.

If you reinstall the pump while it's cool and reading 24 ohms, and try powering-on the machine, and it won't power-on, then the board may be bad. I can't say how far off-target the resistance reading may need to be to interfere with power getting to the board even if the pump isn't fully dead.


 o
RE: Fisher Paykel GWL11 Problem

My GWL11 is about 8-9 years old. Was recently having an issue causing it to stop and beep constantly maybe 10 minutes into a normal wash. The error code (00110011) was for faulty diverter valve.

I checked the diverter valve resistance and it was far from in range (~65KΩ instead of 0.7KΩ to 2.5KΩ). I also checked voltage at the diverter with the machine plugged in but powered off and it was NOT 120v, which I read would indicate a bad motor control module as well as a bad diverter (I think it read 8-9volts AC). So I changed the valve. I also found and removed a penny from one of the hoses connected to the diverter.

I no longer get the error, but the cold water fill will not stop during the wash cycle only. The cold water solenoid seems to works fine for any other cycle that calls for fresh water, except during the wash fill and if I don't physically turn off the water, it will overflow. I've tested this in both automatic and manual (medium) fill modes. If I shut the water valve when the lever gets high enough and the turn it back on a few seconds later, the water is no longer filling into the machine, and the rest of the wash cycles work perfectly. I have also blown through the clear tube connected to the motor control module. There is some resistance but I can blow through it (not sure what I'm looking for here).

It seems to me the motor control module (part number: 420094USP) is to blame, but I don't want to spend more money on the wrong thing. Any thoughts?

Thanks in advance!
Les


 o
RE: Fisher Paykel GWL11 Problem

Clarification: You have the 120v reading at the diverter backwards. A bad controller is indicated if there is 120v when the machine is connected to power but turned off. Power should not be fed to the diverter except when it is activated during the EcoActive wash period, so the reading should be 0v for the test scenario ... I don't know whether a slight "bleed-through" of 8 to 9v is enough to indicate a problem.

Your description sounds like a bad pressure transducer (water level sensor) on the board, but this is throwing a curve at me:

If I shut the water valve when the lever gets high enough and the turn it back on a few seconds later, the water is no longer filling into the machine, and the rest of the wash cycles work perfectly.
A flaky transducer should [theoretically] continue to fill when the water faucet is immediately turned back on.

Run a Perm Press cycle. Select the lowest water level. Watch if it stops filling at the target level. Do your trick with shutting off the water faucet if necessary, but let the cycle run to the end. The rinse on Perm Press is an agitated rinse (not a shower rinse as is on Regular & Heavy), so the problem should [theoretically] recur on the rinse fill.

Regards to the clear tube ... it captures air pressure when the tub fills to register the water level to the sensor. A crack or pinhole in the tube would prevent it from securely holding pressure for the duration, resulting the the machine starting to fill again when enough pressure bleeds off. A clog at the tub end of the tube (lint or debris sometimes can accumulate at the air dome) would prevent it from registering pressure per the water level. You should be able to blow freely through it from the board end into the tub. If not, there may be some clogging at the air dome at side of the tub, which would contribute to the problem you're experiencing.


 o
RE: Fisher Paykel GWL11 Problem

Dadoes, thanks for replying. Agreed about the 120 volts, I understood what I meant but said it wrong, lol.

So, I ran the permanent press cycle with water level on low, but when the water reached halfway up the agitator and was still filling, I closed the water valve. I immediately turned the water back on but it didn't continue to fill the machine.

During the rinse cycle, when the agitator started, the machine continued to fill (last 2 lights lit). When it got to the Spin cycle (last light lit) and began to drain, it was still filling and continued to fill once it started to spin. Once again I closed the water valve to stop the machine from filling and then opened the valve. No more water ran into the machine and the cycle ended normally.

Anything else I might need to check?


 o
RE: Fisher Paykel GWL11 Problem

So you're saying that agitation does start but the water keeps running? The control board won't start agitation until the pressure sensor is satisfied that the target level has been reached ... so it apparently is sensing the level.

Only the cold water supply is presenting this problem? Only hot? Or both?

Seemingly indicates either a bad valve that is "sticking" open. Or maybe a bad control board that isn't shutting off power to the valves ... but in that case the water should go back to running when you shut the faucet(s) off and back on.

Does the water stop if you pause the cycle during fill (without shutting off the faucet)?

The valves run on 24v DC power. I believe power is varied on the hot valve to control the temp mix, so a voltage reading on it may not be consistent.

Are you having a low water pressure situation? It's actually water pressure (back-pressure through tiny bleed-holes in the diaphragm) that shuts off the flow when the solenoid is de-energized. Shutting off the faucet will kill all water through the valve, allowing it to seat closed, then it would stay closed if not energized when the faucet is turned back on.


 o
RE: Fisher Paykel GWL11 Problem

Correct, agitation starts and water keeps running.

I just ran a regular cycle with water set to hot and low fill. I wanted to see if the hot water valve was affected as well since I can't select hot for permanent press. Once again during the wash portion the filling did not stop, but this was cold water. Should the water be cold during the wash if I selected hot?

I forgot to see if pausing the machine would stop the water, so I'll try again and report back.


 o
RE: Fisher Paykel GWL11 Problem

Just ran a permanent press cycle, and pausing did not stop the water. A quick on/off of the cold water valve and all was back to normal again.

Is there a way to check the hot water valve? This is only happening when cold water is being added, regardless of the water temp. selected.


 o
RE: Fisher Paykel GWL11 Problem

I just ran a regular cycle with water set to hot and low fill. I wanted to see if the hot water valve was affected as well since I can't select hot for permanent press. Once again during the wash portion the filling did not stop, but this was cold water. Should the water be cold during the wash if I selected hot?
Yes, correct. On all cycles except Perm Press (which does not run the EcoActive wash phase), only the initial EcoActive fill is at the selected temperature. The agitated wash fills rest of the way with controlled-cold.

You can get a full-hot fill on Perm Press by programming the "hidden" machine-cleaning cycle onto the Favorite button. See your instruction manual for how to do it (or ask me if you've lost your manual). It's intended to clean the machine of accumulated detergent/softener residue but can be used to wash clothes if desired.

The water inlet valves are not directly repairable, can't even be disassembled (other than dismounting the valve assemblies from the mixing chamber).

Suggested action at this point is replace the cold valve, it's much cheaper than a control board.

Part Number 420238P.

Note that the hot and cold valves are different parts and part numbers.

You can try testing if the cold valve is receiving 24v DC power when agitation begins and the water is still running when it shouldn't.


 o
RE: Fisher Paykel GWL11 Problem

Dadoes, thanks for the info about the "hidden" cleaning cycle. I did find how to program it from the manual. Here's what happened:

- I started the custom permanent press cycle, which I programmed to use hot water.

- The machine filled with hot water maybe a 1/3 of the way. The water then stopped and the agitation began.

- A minute or two later while agitating, the fill started again but this time with cold water. I let this continue to see if it would stop but I finally had to close the cold water valve so that the tub wouldn't over-fill. Once again, I was able to immediately open the cold water valve again without having the cold water to continue to fill the tub.

Do you still think the cold solenoid should be changed? It seems as though the solenoid would be "told" by the control board when it should open and close. If you still think the solenoid should be changed, I'm all for it as it's half the price of the control board.


 o
RE: Fisher Paykel GWL11 Problem

I put a meter on the cold inlet valve and started a regular wash.

The meter read 21.5 VDC on the initial fill (while the tub rotates). When the tub stops rotating, the voltage drops to 0.024 VDC, and the water continues to fill. The the water begins to recirculate while the fill continues.

Recirculating ends, and the voltage goes back to 21.5 VDC as the fill continues. The meter (a Fluke 75) then displays OL just for a second or 2 and then back to 21.5 VDC. It does this a few times and then goes back to 0.024VDC, but the water continues to fill. Even if I unplug the machine from the wall it will continue to fill. Its at this point I have to close the cold water valve and open it again.

Now the rinse cycle starts (water is coming into the machine) but this time the meter reads 11.5 VDC. When the voltage drops to 0.024 VDC, the water stops spraying. During this part of the cycle, each time the the water is sprayed in the tub, the voltage is 11.5 VDC and each time it drops to 0.024 VDC the water stops.

This is really strange. I would think that if the inlet valve was bad, it would "stick" open each time the voltage dropped. But it only does that during agitation when the voltage is 21.5 VDC.


 o
RE: Fisher Paykel GWL11 Problem

Hi,

Newb on this forum. I too have a gwl11, and have a fault code of 132 Rotor Pos Sensor. Is fixing it going to be any harder than changing out the main brain on top? Did that last year, and the hardest part was opening the package it came with. Thought it was a diverter fault, so I cleaned it out then. Any pointers for the RPS?


 o
RE: Fisher Paykel GWL11 Problem

Access to the RPS is by removing the SmartDrive motor rotor, and the stator has has to come loose from bottom of the tub. The RPS clips to the stator at a specific position between three of the poles.


 o
RE: Fisher Paykel GWL11 Problem

Super, thanks dadoes! Any special procedure to dismantle the motor, or is it pretty straightforward?


 o
RE: Fisher Paykel GWL11 Problem

Unscrewing the big nut on bottom of the rotor will have the rotor pull itself partially off the stator (the nut loosens but does not come off the rotor). The rotor magnets are very strong, keep metallic debris away from it. Examine the existing RPS for evidence of corrosion that could perhaps be carefully scraped clean to remedy the problem. Don't try testing the RPS with a multimeter, that'll cause damage, it can be tested only with a specific service tool. Observe how the wiring bundle routes through the strain relief before removing it and re-route it the same on reassembly.


 o Post a Follow-Up

Please Note: Only registered members are able to post messages to this forum.

    If you are a member, please log in.

    If you aren't yet a member, join now!


Return to the Laundry Room Forum

Information about Posting

  • You must be logged in to post a message. Once you are logged in, a posting window will appear at the bottom of the messages. If you are not a member, please register for an account.
  • Please review our Rules of Play before posting.
  • Posting is a two-step process. Once you have composed your message, you will be taken to the preview page. You will then have a chance to review your post, make changes and upload photos.
  • After posting your message, you may need to refresh the forum page in order to see it.
  • Before posting copyrighted material, please read about Copyright and Fair Use.
  • We have a strict no-advertising policy!
  • If you would like to practice posting or uploading photos, please visit our Test forum.
  • If you need assistance, please Contact Us and we will be happy to help.


Learn more about in-text links on this page here