It's largely impossible to answer without knowing the machine's model number. Maytag (as do all brands) produce machines with different mechanical designs & control systems.

Post your question at www.automaticwasher.org. Someone on that site will be able to assist you with your problem.

Thank you mrjms. I will try.

I've been a member of that group for 10 years. As I asked here, part of the response you received there is "What's the model number?" :-)

Thanks. My machine is a Maytag Ensignia, oversize capacity plus. The model number is MAV645/AWW. Thank you all.

Is the model MAV6451AWW?

The MAV models are what's sometimes called a "Norgetag" (and also referred to as "Herrin" machines, being built in Herrin, IL) ... meaning it's not the tried-and-true Maytag design of old, but a different mechanical design that Maytag obtained from purchase of the Norge/Magic Chef product line (from Goodman Industries, as I recall). These machines are known for several trouble areas, including failure of the tub seal ... although it's not necessarily a given as some of them do run for some years without a problem developing.

You say the machine's progress hangs and it overfills at the rinse phase. That'd normally indicate a problem with the water level control, but a bad water level switch would/should also cause overfilling at the beginning wash phase. The timer can also go flaky and cause such behavior, and you also say that manually advancing the timer at rinse continues the cycle normally, so that's a clue pointing to the timer.

You can get a timer from several online sources ... searspartsdirect.com, partselect.com, repairclinic.com, and others. Some of those sites will also have parts/assembly diagrams. Check prices at several sources. One source lists just one timer, but a couple sources list two timers for your model depending on what is the revision series of the machine. The model tag will either directly state a series or revision number, or the beginning digits of the serial number indicate the series. Series 21 if the serial is 21 or higher ... or Series 12 if the serial is less than 21.

Thank you so much,Dadoes. You have so much knowledge about washers. I have to correct some information. The wash runs without water stopping hence overfill at both wash cycle and rinse cycle. I have to manually turn off the water faucet and turn on the water when it is necessary. Does it sound more like a water level control problem? Is it possible I can change a water level control by myself? Where can I open the machine and change it with simple tools? I rechecked the model#. It is MAV6457AWW and serial# is 10057411CN. Thanks a lot.

Aha! You've provided more information that's crucial to the diagnosis. :-)

Does the water continue to flow in if the machine is off and/or unplugged from power unless you turn off the faucet(s)? If so, then the problem is the water valve, not the water level switch. One or both of the valves (hot & cold) are hung open, either due to the valve mechanism being worn/bad, or clogged with debris (sand, silt) from the household water supply. Which faucet must be turned off to stop the water? Hot, cold, or both?

Check one of the sites I listed for parts diagrams to see how the machine is assembled/disassembled. Access to change the water valve requires the machine's top be opened. Per the diagrams, the valve is at the center rear, anchored by a bracket, and the fill flume (from where the water sprays into the tub) connects directly to it. You'll need to disconnect the water hoses, raise the top, remove the fill flume, remove the wires from the valve, then change the valve and reassemble the various parts. I believe the top is raised by releasing spring clips about 3 inches in from either side. Use a thin blade such as a putty knife slipped into the seam between the top and front panel to depress the clips.

A water valve runs approx $30. SearsPartsDirect.com seems to have the best price, $26.