I have read that the pump assembly is in the circuit with the control board and a faulty pump will damage the control board if allowed to continue with use.

I am getting tired of baby sitting this washer and look forward to your thoughts.

Fault 37 is pump blocked ... but is "sensed" by way of no change on the water level for 3+ minutes during a drain period. That can also be caused by a kinked/blocked drain hose, drain hose height or length too much for the pump to handle, a blocked or malfunctioning diverter valve, or a control board or pump motor failure (if the pump isn't running at all, but sounds like yours is). Or, more rarely, a kinked or blocked water level pressure tube.

You've confirmed Fault Code 37 via Diagnostic Mode, or you're guessing at it? Fault Code 37 could trigger along with the oversuds if a vapor lock occurs.

I'd also suggest checking the diverter valve functioning via diagnostics (and confirming the recorded fault code). Or physically removing/examining the diverter for debris.

I can send a service manual, but you don't have an email contact on your Gardenweb profile.

Sudsing has varied as I have tried with numerous loads with varying amounts of detergent, both liquid and granular to diagnose the problem. It "hangs" at the same point each time. As I previously mentioned, I have even tried a load without any detergent as all. If I were to guess, it appears that the shower cycle may not be happening as I get puffy suds that are easily dispersed with my manual spray process. Sorry, No picture but I can take one if necessary.

I think I agree. The pump, when activated seems to function fine. I have full water flow from the drain hose. When I restart the process, the first thing that happens is that the pump will engage and pump some water out of the tub. I can’t tell what happens next due to the lid-lock other than it will hang again at the same sequence. If I restart the process by pushing the pause/start button, it will eventually complete the total cycle but with numerous hangs. Is there a way to keep to lid open to watch the processes?

I have checked both sides of the pump and all of the hoses and can find no obstructions. The drain hose goes into an outlet above my soil line approx 8 inches above the washer. This problem just started and the drain hose configuration worked fine in the past 10 months.

I confirmed the fault 37 by using the diagnostic mode as referenced on the service summary sheet contained in the control panel housing

I am curious if the machine will hold more than one fault code as the code 37 may be "hiding" another code as well.

I am unsure as to how to check the diverter valve or any other functions using diagnostics. I tried a "permanent Press" cycle as I understand this cycle does not recirculate the water thus not using the diverter valve in the normal fashion. I did examine the diverter valve by removing all of the hoses going to it and found no obstructions.

I could use a Service Manual and I reset my profile but in-case, it is CoombsDB at Gmail dot com

Thanks again and I look forward to your thoughts

I think there are several issues at play here based on the more I read and research. The shower rinse portion (or maybe lack thereof) seems to be one of my chief concerns There seems to be a long period of time before the rinse portion starts (and then hangs) after the wash portion as concluded.

I would like to watch the cycles but am abbated with the lid lock and therefore can only listen and guess

There is a way to trick the lid lock ... but a quicker, easier way is to remove the two screws that hold down the top deck so you can raise the top with the lid remaining closed. Carefully pry out the two lid bumpers at the front corners. Remove the screws. Now with the lid closed and locked (so the machine will run), you can raise up the top for a look-see. Be aware that the fill flume is attached to the top and will rotate up with it and spray toward the agitator rather than straight down into the basket.

The sequence of operation is:

- Fill with a small amount of water to saturate the clothes, dissolve the detergent and allow for recirculation through the pump
- EcoActive (shower) wash for 3 to 5 minutes, basket rotates at 25 RPM
- Fill for agitated wash, which also involves water level sensing (unless water level is set manually).
- Agitated wash
- Drain
- Shower rinsing (unless Softener Rinse is selected), which is an alternating sequence of spin at 300 RPM (with a few spray rinses), 670 RPM to extract soapy water, and saturation sprays at 25 RPM
- Final spin.

If softener rinse is selected, it should run a few spray rinses at 300 RPM, extraction at 670 RPM, then fill for an agitated rinse, drain, final spin.

There may be one brief period of pump recirculation during rinse to clear the hose of residual detergent, but otherwise any pump operation during the rinse and spin phase is for draining.

Checking the GWL15 service manual again, there's some disparity in the blocked pump situation. The description of pump operation says the trigger for a blocked pump fault is less than 3mm change in water level after 9 to 10 minutes ... which actually allows for some large degree of pump blockage before it triggers. The fault code section says "no change in water level for 3 minutes."

Maximum drain hose height is stated to be 47". The drain hose must not be airtight at the plumbing connection or airlock/siphoning can occur.

When in Diagnostic Mode, hot and cold temp buttons turn the hot and cold water on/off. Regular cycle button turns the pump on/off. Delicate cycle button operates the diverter (diverter testing is not in the service manual). It takes a couple mins for the wax solenoid to heat and shift modes to engage for recirculation, couple/three mins to cool and deactivate for drain.

I have some reading to do and "tests" to run. I will report back on my findings

Thanks again for your help

Should I be able to hear or see anything when test the diverter valve? I assume that I should have some water in the tub during test

Of course, the diverter can also be tested by running a cycle and observing the recirculation during EcoActive, then setting the machine to the final spin cycle to confirm draining.

Works as you describe in the first part.

I have run all of the tests with results as designed. I am still at a loss and have thrown in the towel. I will surrender my "Fix it yourself" badge to the proper authorities.

Mr Warranty man is due here in the Morning.

I'll post the results

I placed a service-warranty call with Sear last week as a back-up should I not be able to repair this washer myself in the meantime. I was scheduled for today or so I thought.

I had not heard anything by noon so I called back to confirm. No service call was scheduled for me. I politely rescheduled for next week and proceeded to try a load of laundry using my manual spray/restart method. I hadn't heard my favorite FP Beep song so I decided to check on the progress. It is now completely dead. It died somewhere in the process. It now has No power, nada light. Just a load of wet laundry.

This washer hates me. It is evil

Anyone have thoughts

When a control board is installed, it must be programmed for the correct machine size (basket diameter). F&P machines on the NZ/Aus market are available in three tub capacities. U.S. models are all the large size, but the controller must still be programmed.

With Power off, press and hold Wash Temp Up, then press Power at the same time. Should get 4 short beeps. Press Spin Speed Up/Down as needed to illuminate the HOLD LED to set 7.5kg / 8.0kg machine size (650mm basket). Press Power to exit and save.

I tried the procedure as you stated with no success

If you notice my previous thread, I get the fault code as soon as I plug the washer in. I am not able to access the "program mode" at all

I tried with the assistance of a helper by holding the "wash temp up" and the "power" buttons on while plugging in the washer. No response from the panel as pushing the "spin speed" buttons offered no results other than stopping the constant initial beeping

Another bad board perhaps?

Another bad board perhaps?

I'd suggest checking the wiring harnesses for proper arrangement/connections, but each one should fit only one position on the board.

There's a tech board at fisherpaykelparts.net that sometimes has "live" online assistance.