Depends on the time frame involved.

Speed Queen and Amana were produced by the same manufacturer (Raytheon) for a period of time. No longer.

After the "no longer" time, Maytag bought Amana, and NAV & SAV Maytag models were of the Amana design.

Whirlpool bought Maytag in 2006, and thus Amana washers shortly after were changed to Whirlpool mechanics.

Alliance Laundry Systems owns Speed Queen now.

Sorry, I don't have any experience with Speed Queen / Amana mechanics. The machine shouldn't fill any higher than the selected water level even if the wash water isn't fully drained at start of the rinse.

Access the pump, hose connections etc by removing the front panel: a few screws along the front bottom and the front panel swings up and off.

A "bracket" piece clamps together the lower and upper halves of the pump. Loosen the thumbscrew to separate and one can easily access the outlet hose clamp once the lower section is free. I was able to inspect the pump and snake out the hose to find no obstructions.

Next step for me was to either inspect/clear the pump inlet hose or look for problems/blockage in the tub. The hose is still difficult to access plus, due to its age & condition it seemed I might destroy it while doing so, so I opted to first inspect the tub.

Remove agitator bolt and lift up agitator.
To Remove the top, 2 screws on top front then a few (about 6?) on rear of control panel to access a few more screws inside that attach top panel at rear. To entirely remove the lid you'd have to disconnect the water hoses and some of the control wiring but to access below or work on the tub it's unnecessary; you can kind of swing it up and out of the way (as though the top was hinged along the rear).

Attempting to remove the inner tub (spin basket?) I'm hitting another impasse:

There are 8 phillips head screws around the bottom I, at first, began to try to remove but then stopped as they seemed to have glue or sealant at the base as though they are not intended to be removed. I did a little more research and, instead, began to work on the four hex head bolts on the center agitator area. They came off easily enough and according to some of what I read, the inner tub should have just lifted right up and out but it did not. Something still seemed to be holding it in. The top of the central shaft seemed to be a sort of "nut" I was able to loosen with a large socket. It's now free but turning it further turns the entire shaft. I'm not sure if its reluctance to lift out is due to years of use and build-up or if something else must be unfastened. I'm reluctant to pull, tug and apply brute force unless/until I know it's appropriate.

Any suggestions on how to remove the inner tub?

So that no one wastes their time answering already solved problems and for those that might later find this helpful, here's my update. (This is regarding our DA3211 but it seems it may apply to certain other Speed Queen, Amana or Maytag washers as well.)

re the photos: I put that one bolt back just to show the type. It wasn't overlooked and the reason I can't pop it. (That would be too easy!)

Oh my, this is an old Speed Queen. Solid-tub unit, no perfs on the inner basket.

Search your model at SearsPartsDirect.com for diagrams.

The basket is removed via the 8 screws.

Yeah? You're certain of this? It would certainly explain a few things.

They're really standing their ground preferring to strip than budge.
Do you know if what I interpreted to be glue is just a washer or gasket or are they glued & screwed.

Any suggestions, tip, techniques used by the pros you might be willing to share?

Thanks (and for the prompt response.)

Yeah? You're certain of this? It would certainly explain a few things.

They're really standing their ground preferring to strip than budge.
Do you know if what I interpreted to be glue is just a washer or gasket or are they glued & screwed.

Any suggestions, tip, techniques used by the pros you might be willing to share?

Thanks (and for the prompt response.)

If you bevel the inner basket to one side and shine a flashlight, can you see anything around the bottom of the outer tub?

I would highly recommend going at this from the pump location rather than trying to remove the tub. I suspect if there is a pump restriction, you will see it (a sock) around the 7 o'clock position in the outer tub. Perhaps grabbing it with a coat hanger stretched out.

I suppose the other issue might be the pump pulley spinning on the shaft. Could be loose. If I remember correctly, there were 2 different pump styles for these machines. Depending on whether the motor reversed direction for spinning or spin was shifted by a solenoid.

MRB

I've pretty much come to that conclusion. Not only because the screws are so uncooperative but also because of what I've read about also having to replace seals to prevent water into the tranny, oil into the tub. etc., etc. I don't really need to take it out; I merely wanted to inspect and clean.

So far, I've found no blockage in pump inlet or outlet hoses, nothing in the tub or hose entrance, the pump is clear, impeller seems OK. The only "obstructions" I have found were a few pennies in the bottom of the spin basket. It seems to me unlikely that this alone could cause the problem (?) but then I can't see how many places the water has to exit the spin basket.

On the other hand, as mentioned in original post, I found the pump drive belt to be quite loose. My understanding is that, as with car drive belts, it should have deflection of 1/2" or so. This currently has about three times that so my next plan is to try to tighten the belt which, apparently, can be done near the motor mount (Is that correct?)

Again, with the original problem being that the machine sometimes operates as it should but, sporadically fails to drain properly, to those with experience, does this sort of behavior seem it could be attributable simply to a loose belt?

Thanks for your help

Other than a pump restriction of some form, the other source could be the laundry detergent being used is causing a suds lock condition. Have you changed detergents recently? Does the machine seem to be spinning correctly after the water is gone? I wonder if perhaps the fluid drive isn't running a little low. Not sure how to test that. Perhaps someone else will chime in.

MRB

For others that might find this helpful, as I recall, the situation was this:

The belt was, apparently, a little loose and we weren't noticing that the spin cycle wasn't always happening.
We later learned it would with a manual boost. Following cycles would add more water increasing the weight and further preventing it from spinning out. Tightening the belt (which in this particular case was done by sliding the motor mount) solved this problem. Details re tightening the belt found here.