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Fisher Paykel GWL11 diverter valve allways on - bad controller?

Posted by northbear (My Page) on
Fri, Nov 22, 13 at 0:34

The problem started when we ran an empty cleaning cycle. Set to hot and told to fill the tank full. It ran for quite some time, but never finished the cycle as it was stuck on the beginning of the rinse cycle and there was quite a bit of water on the floor. Instead of draining, the diverter was having the pump recirculate. After looking on here and several other internet sites I figured it must be lint stuck in the diverter valve. Took out the diverter valve and it was clean, nothing stuck in there. But I did notice it was diverting to the drain which it was not when I unplugged the washer the night before. I plugged the washer back in, the valve slowly moved to the recirculate position (didn't press any other buttons) Unplugged the machine and it moved back to the drain position. I removed the diverter and found that there is 167Volts applied to the diverter connection whenever the machine is plugged in. Diverter measured 2.7K ohms when cold, less when warm.

Based on this information and a post here:

I think my diverter is working just fine and I have a bad controller board. Any other thoughts of what this could be, or anything else to test? I think my next step may be to follow the instructable here

to see if I can fix it myself. If not buy a new controller board.

Any advice or ideas would be greatly appreciated

Follow-Up Postings:

RE: Fisher Paykel GWL11 diverter valve allways on - bad controlle

One additional item, I did check and there were no fault codes.

RE: Fisher Paykel GWL11 diverter valve allways on - bad controlle

Bad board, yes. The procedure you followed by unplugging/replugging the power to check diverter operation is a correct diagnosis for that problem.

May be reasonable to change the diverter as well in case some flakiness on it caused the board problem.

Your "How to Repair" link is for an older Aus/NZ model which may not be exactly relevant to your newer U.S. unit.

RE: Fisher Paykel GWL11 diverter valve allways on - bad controlle

Thanks for the confirmation of the bad board. Any idea on if it was the cleaning cycle that did it or just coincidental?

I did see that it was a different model, but I couldn't find any better information online. (Anyone have a suggestion?) I know there are no "serviceable parts" on the board, but figured I would at least open it up and take a look for any obvious problems (bad capacitors, blown resistors etc) before having the cost of a new board.

RE: Fisher Paykel GWL11 diverter valve allways on - bad controlle

The clamp connecting diverter valve to the recirculation tube was a bit rusty (item #7 circled in blue below) . More rusty was the clamp for the small tube the goes back into the control panel (item 15 circled in red below). Is this typical or something I should be concerned about?

RE: Fisher Paykel GWL11 diverter valve allways on - bad controlle

Coincidental .... unlikely the cleaning cycle had any relation to the failed board. The cleaning cycle on GWL11 works off the Perm Press cycle. Perm Press doesn't activate the diverter, it skips the Eco Active wash phase.

Neither clamp should be exposed to water under normal use. Any evidence of leaking from the diverter? That would account for #7 being rusty. #15 clamp is for the water level pressure tube where it attaches to the tub air dome, shouldn't be any water in that area ... unless perhaps there's a drip coming down the drain hose, or from the tub cover. You can substitute appropriate-size spring- or screw-clamps. Don't overtighten them.

You mentioned water on the floor. Coming from the recirculation stream splashing ... or somewhere as yet unidentified?

RE: Fisher Paykel GWL11 diverter valve allways on - bad controlle

Thanks for the response!

I didn't see any evidence of leaking from the diverter, but just tilted the washer back slightly to work on it so I didn't have a great view. I figured there shouldn’t be any water in that area, but I am not sure where it would be coming from. I till take a look at the area around the diverter, the drain hose and around the cover to see if I can determine anything.

I am not positive where the water on the floor came from, but I think it may have been from when the pump was recirculating instead of draining at at beginning of the rinse cycle. My theory is that the recirculating water hit the rotating inner drum and splashed outside the outer drum. Water seemed to be more towards the back which would make sense if the spin cycle was counter clockwise (not sure which direction the spin is)

Again thanks so much for your help!

RE: Fisher Paykel GWL11 diverter valve allways on - bad controlle

Spin is clockwise.

The machine physically can't spin (not more than ~25 RPM) until the water is drained. The basket floats upward about 1/4" to disengage from the drive cog when the machine fills for agitation. The water must drain almost completely for the basket to drop down and re-engage the cog.

Spray-over can occur if the diverter is partially clogged ... such that the machine can drain but there's also a little recirculation. The water does drain but slowly. Some recirculation occurs, hits the rim and splatters around when the basket kicks up to a higher spin RPM and water extraction commences from the clothes.

RE: Fisher Paykel GWL11 diverter valve allways on - bad controlle

hmmm. Then I really am not sure why there why there was water on the floor. The diverter was not partially clogged so I it shouldn't have been any over-spray.

When we ran the cleaning cycle we set the water level to "high" rather then auto. Could that have been part of the problem?

I thought I read somewhere on this forum the Perm Press cycle does not use the diverter valve. If I put everything back together and then leave the diverter valve disconnected could we wash on perm press until we get a new board?

RE: Fisher Paykel GWL11 diverter valve allways on - bad controlle

The programmed cleaning cycle defaults to high water level by design.

Regards to washing on Perm Press with the diverter disconnected -- should be doable if the machine doesn't throw a fault code for detecting that the diverter is missing from its circuit. The F&P electrical design is somewhat sensitive to the expected resistance loads from the various components. For example, a fault code will trigger immediately upon connecting to power if either of the water valves is disconnected. The diverter may not be referenced that way, I haven't tried it.

RE: Fisher Paykel GWL11 diverter valve allways on - bad controlle

Well I put everything back together but didn't electrically connect the diverter valve and have now run three loads on Perm Press without issue so it looks like perm press works without the diverter valve being connected.

Any idea if this kind problem with the controller board can be fixed or is only solution a new board?

New thought on the water on the floor. When the basket is floating up it closes the gap the recirculating "shower" flows through. When we found the washer initially it was recirculating water, but not very well as the gap was very small. When the tub is full of water the water may not have been able to get through at all and could splash out of the outer tub and onto the floor. It probably spilled enough water on the floor until the tub was low enough that it was able to recirculate continuously which is how we found it. Not willing to try it again and have water on the floor again to find out!

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