If you want a regular Whirlpool top loader, try this one. It's not new for 2008, but it's probably one of the best of the breed that you're going to get at this point. It doesn't have auto temp control, which is a plus.

Here is a link that might be useful: Whirlpool washer

thank you. It looks nice. I just wish I could have new models, without agitators, but? I wonder if other people have had the same problems not getting clean clothes? I wrote Sears to see if they would let me exchange washer or if they have any solutions. Thank you again. I am saving the washer info.

If you are going to get a new standard top load washer why don't you get a Speed Queen? Tub is bigger than the Whirlpool (reg TL) and has a much better warranty and built to last. You should go to their web site and check it out. They also have a new front load out that is great from what I have read.

Go to Automatic Washer.org then to the discussion part then to the Deluxe and look up "Speed Queen is here." Someone there just got a new one and has pics and tells about it.

Just curious, what do you like about the Whirlpools?? You have just tried two of them and you don't like either one.
I hope you find something that will work well for you. The front load Samsungs are supposed to be good for spinning smoothly with their VRT but I have never used one myself.
Good Luck and let us know what you get.

If you want a top loader without an agitator, there is also the GE Harmony. I don't know much about it, but others here who have it seem to like it very much. Maybe someone here will chime in about it.

Don't by ANY top loader with an agitator. The quality of the all plastic parts manufactured in China is very poor, sharp edges, unpolished surfaces etc. Just out of curiosity I checked agitators in the floor samples in the local Sears store. Only one model (ironically the cheapest one) had agitator without sharp edges. You can do this simple test yourself, just don't forget to check agitator surface between the basket and agitator bottom half (if there is enough space for your fingers), you'll be surprised!

Reneea
I also have the Kenmore Elite Oasis and am very displeased with it. It wrinkles and twists the clothes to the point of looking like they are braided. When using the delicate cycle recently, some items did not even get completely wet! I am scheduling a service call tomorrow. I have the matching dryer and the motor control board has been replaced on that. I mentioned the washer problem to the repairman when he came to repair the dryer and he said, "That's the way the machine is." I bought the set in January. I don't know whether Sears will do anything since nothing has actually broken on the washer. I am going to look at the Speed Queen.
Whistle

Speed Queen has a plastic agitator as do all of them that I know of but the interal parts of SQ are metal. This is why they have such a good warranty. The tub is stainless steel also. They also have a system that keeps the washer in balance so there is no banging or walking if the clothes gets lopsided. Also, when they start to drain out the water the tub starts spinning so it slings the dirt out with the water whereas with the Kenmore/Whirlpool they have a "neutral" drain where the tub sits still while the water drains down through the clothes so if there is soil on the top of the water it settles right back on the clothes.
Also, I do not sell SQ or anything like that, I just think they are a good product still made like they used to be without a bunch of electronic parts and "boards" to burn out.

Thank you so much for all the great information. I guess I need to learn more. I have always had great luck with whirlpool appliances (refrigerators, washers) in the past. I am going to do my homework. thank you again and again.

We just installed a Whirlpool WTW5820 TL. I ran it today without any load except water, and it seemed to vibrate more than I recall. How much is normal vibration during the spin cycle? It sits on granite kitchen floor and is pretty level.

reneea

I had the Cabrio without agitator for 6 months. It didn't clean well for my standards either and it did twist all clothing so tightly that they often didn't even get wet where they were twisted!!!!

That said, I got to exchange it for another Whirlpool. I chose the Cabrio with the agitator to match my Cabrio dryer. And so far I have had this one for 6 months and I am pleased. It cleans as well as my old Kitchen Aid top loader. The real bonus is that it holds ALOT. It can handle 11 towels easily. Also 8 pair of jeans!

Since you like Whirlpool you may just check it out.

Thank you. I wrote Sears and they didn't write back. Will have to write again. Have to see if they'll exchange for us, another washer. Otherwise I may be stuck. I'm using the Sears detergent and our clothes still smell bad. and, twist also. If I wash a blanket, I have to sit by washer and unroll, unwind, etc every few minutes of wash/rinse. I'll know more soon. Thanks so much.

reneea, are you using the Bulky cycle (if your Oasis has it) for the blanket? It's designed for single large items like that. There's also a Sheets cycle which is designed to prevent tangling of multiple large items, but they have to be loaded correctly -- in bundles around the outside of the wash plate, NOT placed across it. For more water, try the Towels cycle, if you haven't already.

thanks, yes, I've tried the bulky/bedding and sheets/towels and the clothes still smell sour after 30 mins. the towels twist (which is fine) but the blankets get into a ball even tho I put in washer correctly. even so, it forms like a donut without a whole if I dont reposition blanket every few mins. my husband wants me to try different soaps but seems alot of you like the sears (which I'm using.) and not alot of people are crazy in numbers, about other ones. my husband thinks we should use our old machine agitator type detergent and I told him we aren't supposed to but need to use the HE type. I'm afraid he's going to make a mess and use it soon...sigh. ;) anyway, still waiting for sears to write back. thank you for the good ideas. you DO get more water on those two cycles.

Why do you not go back to the store where you got it and get them to exchange it if possible??
If I was going to change for a top load with no agitator I would go with the GE Harmony. If you have noticed it is very little negative things you hear about these machines. From what I have read much better than the Oasis/Cabrio.
About the detergent: Why not change. Even though a lot on here like the Sears maybe there is just something that with your water makes it not work right. Go get you some Tide HE powder(if you can use Tide) or maybe some Wisk HE or even the Gain HE(it will stop the stink but a lot of perfume). Have you tried adding any Oxy Clean? Which Sears powder did you buy? I know they have one with the Oxy in it. While I was waiting for a yes or no about exchanging I would try out some other products/additives. Maybe try your old detergent just use about a 1/4 cup or maybe 1/3 cup if big load. It isn't going to kill the machine trying it one time. Then if that helps you will know it may be the other detergent partly to blame.(like for his shirts)

"...with the Kenmore/Whirlpool they have a "neutral" drain where the tub sits still while the water drains down through the clothes so if there is soil on the top of the water it settles right back on the clothes."

Sparky823, that is incorrect. The tubs of Kenmore/Whirlpool washers spin while the water drains. I always wondered why they did this. Now I know.

pecanfudge, are you perhaps referring to frontloaders?

Sparky823 is correct in regards to topload Whirlpool/Kenmore/Roper/KitchenAid/Estate/Inglis, and now the new Maytags (which are the Whirlpool direct-drive design). For a *very* brief period in the early or mid 1980s, the first direct-drive Kenmore and Whirlpool machines did spin-drain, but the transmission was soon redesigned so that a neutral drain is done, same as the belt-drive mechanism that was on the market for more than 30 years (until approx 1985).

I have a 1991 KitchenAid direct-drive washer and a 1985 Whirlpool belt-drive that both have neutral-drain.

If your direct-drive, toploading washer of the brands stated above does a spin-drain (assuming it isn't one of the original direct-drive design about 25 years old), then the transmission is having a problem.

Considering for how many years the belt-drive Whirlpool/Kenmore design was sold, and now the direct-drive mechanism, and how popular the Kenmore brand is/was, I don't think a neutral drain is a big a detriment as is often claimed.

pecanfudge:In the 70's my mom had one (Kenmore) and it drained neutral. She HATED that! She went from a Frigidaire to a Kenmore and was just sick. She said the Kenmore didn't rinse well (not like GM Frigidaire) and the clothes were just half-way spun out compared to the Frigidaire, then there was also the drain thing. We had that washer-Kenmore 700 for about 9-10 years. Then she bought a new Maytag and it is still going with 1 repair(timer)in 26 years. She like the Maytag much better because it would spin out the water like the Frigidaire, it just didn't spin as fast but by this time they had quit making them that would spin like the Frigidaire. I also bought my nephew a new set of Kenmores for a wedding gift and they also do the neutral drain.
Dadoes: Thank You for backing me up on the washers drain. My Mom said the clothes were cleaner with the Maytag and she thought the draining (spin) helped but that was just her opinion.

BTW I know this is the wrong forum but I am going to ask anyway Dadoes Do you know where there is a "flow restrictor" in a dishwasher? Like in the fill part. I had read once that you need to remove that if you have wash issues and it will help it fill more. My brother has a KitchenAid and they have had some problems with that.It is only 2 years old.

Thanks

Most dishwasher water valves have a flow restrictor. It's there for a reason. Dishwashers are traditionally timed fill, with a float that triggers for overfilling (at which point some water may leak out under some conditions). Household water supply generally has a higher pressure / flow rate such that if the flow wasn't slackened by the restrictor, the machine would overfill. The restrictor is there to allow the dishwasher to fill to the correct level under a range of household water pressures. I'd strongly suggest NOT removing the flow restrictor. Instead, disconnect the fill line, remove the valve, and check if there's a screen that's clogged.

He everyone. I hate the Sears we bought these from, they are not honest. But, today, I bought the only powder (I like powder)detergent the groc. store has, Tide HE. It does smell good. I'll use amount for a medium load, since there isn't enough water for a full size load on any cycle. Boy, we had Whirlpool washer/dryer that lasted from 86-06 and was still going when we moved and left them with house. I'm not sure I understand about the draining on my new ones, but will re-read and pay attention to the draining. it's the kenmore Oasis elite. I would love to have a front loader, but we live in a mobile that is off ground and even shoring up the floor, etc. they vibrated alot. the store knew they did, but didn't mention it when we told them we lived in a mobile, and they would not be in a garage but a laundry room in mobile. thank everyone, I'm still learning. I get Consumer Reports and that seems to be pretty accurate, as we've bought based on their ratings, but things aren't all made for a perfect world. lots of variables I'm learning. thanks again.

The Oasis (and Cabrio and Bravos and AquaSmart and all F&P agitator toploaders) has a neutral drain as well. There's no other choice due to the mechanical design. It doesn't have a transmission, the basket and wash plate are connected directly to the motor shaft. During washing the motor turns back and forth exactly as you see the wash plate move. When the machine fills with water, the underside of the basket holds air and the entire basket floats upward a bit to disengage from the drive coupler so the wash plate can move alone. When the water drains, the basket settles back down onto the drive coupler so it can spin. There's no way the basket can spin until after the water drains.

You should try to get your money back then go to Lowes and get the Samsung with VRT. Someone on here has one in a mobile home and she says she has no vibs at all. Linkay or something like that is the post--just can't remember the exact name.

Dadoes-Thanks for the restrictor info. I have never looked in a water valve. I thought they were sealed and you couldn't get in there. In fact I don't think I saw a screen on mine when I connected it(Kenmore Elite). It might be up in there??
Thanks

Sparky823 and dadoes:

Here is a rundown of the cycles of a washer with neutral drain (from the www.diybanter.com forum):

Fill
Agitate
Pause
Neutral drain
Pause
Spin/drain
Pause
Fill
Agitate
Pause
Neutral drain
Pause
Spin/drain
Advance to off

My Kenmore toploader (2007) does not do that and neither did the Whirlpool (1990) it replaced. After agitating it pauses then the tub spins as the water is draining. A poster on another website forum said most (not all) direct drive washers are neutral drain washers.

Well I am not going to argue with you about this cause I really could care less BUT I also know for a FACT that the Kenmore we had drained neutral then would spin. The direct drive machine I bought my nephew and his wife(Kenmore) about 8 years ago is also a neutral drain. One time he did say that he made the mistake of opening the lid when it started draining,then it shut off and when he closed the lid back it started spinning with a tub full of water and he thought he had messed it up.

The chart you pulled up says it does a neutral drain then pause then drain/spin. Well yeah--what water is left in the clothes will spin out of them and the machine has to drain that water out so in that sense it is spinning and draining.
It is my understanding there is supposed to be NO water in the tub when it starts to spin because it is too much of a strain for the motor. Ask a Sears repair tech and see what he says.

Dadoes correct me if I am wrong.

Sorry for the hijack, this thread is really not appropriate for discussing spin/drain vs. neutral drain ..... but .....

Pecan, interesting that you have the correct cycle sequence but are mixing up the terminology.

Your pause-followed-by-neutral-drain sequences ARE the MAIN drain periods, what Sparky and I are referring to as the neutral-drain -- when all the standing water in the tub is drained out. The only water left is what is still saturated in the clothes. Of course the machine is going to continue draining when spin starts. ALL washers do that, else how would the water extracted from the spinning clothes get out of the machine? But that isn't what's called a spin/drain.

The very first Whirlpool-family direct-drive models introduced via Kenmore in the early 1980s and via Whirlpool shortly after, did NOT do the neutral drain AT ALL. There was a brief pause after wash or rinse agitation while the motor reversed, but then the basket began spinning IMMEDIATELY while STILL FULL of water.

THAT is what Sparky and I are referring to as a true spin/drain machine. Classic Maytags, GEs, Frigidaires, Hotpoint, Speed Queens and many other brands worked that way. Speed Queens still do as mentioned above, perhaps the only toploader nowadays that does.

To further clarify, in your cycle sequence above, the pause after neutral drain is REQUIRED for the transmission to shift out of neutral drain and into spin. Direct-drive Whirlpool, Kenmore, etc., have the motor running one direction for agitation, then reverse direction for spin and drain. (During agitation the pump literally runs backwards forcing water back into the tub instead of down the drain.) The motor running at 1725 RPM or whatever is the speed, can't *instantly* reverse direction, thus the required pause for it to coast to a stop first. During agitation some cams and springs in the transmission preset for neutral. When the motor reverses, neutral drain occurs. When the motor pauses the second time and restarts in the reverse direction, the cams and springs release for spin. The original direct-drive design that I mention above did not have the cams and springs mechanism in the transmission.

The incident Sparky mentions with his nephew opening the machine during drain (which shuts off the motor), then closing it and the machine started spinning with a tubful of water ... that had the same mechanical effect as the second pause programmed into the timer. So Kenmores can still spin/drain (go into spin with the tub still full of water, if done manually) but that isn't the norm.

Here's a 1964 Kenmore belt-drive going from agitate to neutral drain to spin (with spray rinse) and off.

And here's a 1965 Speed Queen solid-tub machine going from fill to wash agitation to overflow rinse to spin/drain and spin to rinse fill.

See the difference?

Dadoes, I think I get the picture. Thanks for your patience and explanation.