Well nobody has responded... and I have a new issue with doing the butcher block so another question. I figured out the answer to one of the questions which was you can get 12' sections. So that's good. I also kind of figured out how to stain it and get is somewhat shiny. Still don't know if you can put some sort of polyurethane or something along those lines on it. Is it just wax/mineral oil?

Ok here's the new question: Butcher block countertops some in 25" depths. My washer and dryer currently stick out 35"~~~ I don't want them sticking out 10" past the countertops. My granite in the kitchen sticks out up to 26" so that's not even much better. I don't really want to stick the countertop depth more anyway, because it would look silly going over the cabinets 10" extra! So is there any fix to this anyone can think of? Do I have extra large washer/dryer or something? Because I see a lot of photos where the they stick out 0"-4" maybe past. But nothing like mine do!!!

Perhaps when the addition is done, I can make sure they do as close to the wall as possible, but I'm sure there's code limits.

Any suggestions to this dilemma?

I can suggest the woodworking forum for assistance on building the counter but that's the limit of my expertise. :)

Butcher block is sometimes used for kitchen counters. You might cross-post on the Kitchens forum.

One possibility for deep counters and shallow cupboards is to put the cabinets just shy of the front of the countertop, and have the empty space behind the cabinets rather than in front of them. [Depending on many factors, it would probably be a good idea to have something behind the cabinets to make the countertop more stable where it meets the wall.]

If you want the BB to be one piece when done, alternating grain will be difficult to join together without eventual cracks. It can be done, though, but difficult.

You CAN get BB in 12 foot lengths, but it would be known as truck bed, and truck bed (besides being available only in oak) is all about flexible strength and not looks. I've tried to make furniture grade tables out of it and it's not a material that looks good without a lot of work and luck. It eats up Plastic Wood like a dog with a bowl of gravy.

If you are ever in the vicinity of Lititz Pennsylvania, the Sensenich wooden propeller people make enormous amounts of inch and three quarter butcher board and they can (theoretically) make a top infinitely long.

A competent carpenter could make you a 12 foot maple top from scratch, using ripped and planed slats, good glue, and about three good pipe/bar clamps per foot. One could do it in half a day's prep, two hours of buildup, two days of clamped drying, and a day of finishing. Other than the clamps it is not a hand tool product so tool investment and raw sweat would make it expensive.

My best advice is to be sure and read the posts about wood countertops in kitchen forum.

You'll have to rout a pocket on the underside to make access for the wrench for the nut, but if you rail bolt and glue the sections together, they aren't coming apart.

Here is a link that might be useful: Rail bolt

"How to have them put together snugly?" ... dowels and glue and clamps ... but it's a bad idea. Very weak.

Try perfectplank.com for a custom size counter - if you want 27" or 36" and 12' long they can do it for you.

Setting your lower cabinets forward a bit will bring them in line with the appliances. To support the rear of the counter, nail a 2x4 to the wall behind them as a ledger.

If you're hell-bent on doing it yourself, acquire a biscuit joiner. It appears you are trying to utilize existing, reasonably priced products (e.g. IKEA tops) and convert them into your needs? It's not a bad idea, but you'll have to rip both edges of the sides you want to join; you can even biscuit join a backslash in butcher block. Use the appropriate glue for both the biscuits and the edges you are joining. You can get clamps that can accommodate the size you want to achieve.

I would look into the more permanent finishes for laundry room use versus wax. If you are looking to change or deepen the color of the butcher block, do so first with a stain and then permanently seal them. Don't use wax or oils as clothing will absorb these finishes.

This post was edited by fahrenheit_451 on Tue, Nov 4, 14 at 17:45

If your goal is to save money, ikea is the place to go. Their stock counters only come 24" standard depth though. I used ikea stock laminate in my laundry room and did a double decker counter. It's awesome, cheap and easy to cut. And no need to worry about waxing, sealing, etc.

Unless you are going to DIY, I think butcher block is going to be a significant cost. Good luck.

Since you are using this counter for folding cloths (I assume), you donâÂÂt need the functionality of a butcher block top but are desiring the butcher block look (I assume). Here are some suggestions that may meet your need. You could get a Formica or Wilsonart laminate product that will give you the butcher block look. Or, you can easily build a thin butcher block surface on top of an MDF base by gluing an array of ü inch think end grain maple you cut up yourself and sand flush. Or, on top on of an MDF base install some parquet flooring tiles or bamboo flooring. All of these solutions will give you the custom size you need and a wood top look.

I'm doing mine with Ikea butcher block, and using the width that is for an island/pennisula for over the washer/dryer.