Is there a reason you don't want to try repairing your dryer?ÃÂ Four years is not old and repairs typically are cheaper than buying new, particularly if done DIY.

What's the model number of your GE?ÃÂ If it runs and heats but doesn't dry, then chances are your problem is a clog in the exhaust ducting (which won't be solved by a new dryer).

DH is a DIYer. The electric control panel shorted and needs to be replaced - over $300. He thinks he will also have to replace one heating element - over $200. We called GE because our booklet said that they will replace the contol panel, up to 5yrs, without the cost of labor. DH has to send notarized letter if he does labor, which is not a problem. We have to call back Monday. The question is, do we wait for GE to hopefully send part and still put over $200 into it, or just get a new one. And which one?

Over the past 20 years, I have had several Miele electric dryers, one Samsung and one Electrolux. MIELE, MIELE, MIELE!! They are the ONLY one with true reverse tumbling (no wrinkles & �ber soft, fluffy clothes, sheets and towels). The clothes are never over baked (I use Normal + Gentle option) for 99% of all my laundering. Miele is one of the only machines, where the mositure sensor is actually on one of the paddles(fins), so moisture is measured and read very consistently and accurately! I would NOT consider any other brand, after having Miele! On a side note, my Electrolux Wave Touch electric dryer was better than the Samsung I had (Electrolux capacity is awesome), but the build quality is a little suspect! Also, the Miele and Electrolux are not far in price difference! Miele, Miele, Miele!! ;)

You still didn't say what is the model number. I replaced both heating elements on a GE several months ago for $27.50 with a restring kit (just the element wire, not the entire housing).ÃÂ I checked just now, the price on the kit I used has gone up $10, but that's still far from $200.

dadoes, the model # is DPS620, rear heater. DH looked on-line for part and it was over $200. If we get the control panel from GE and the part is not expensive, of course we will fix it. But I need to know what to consider and begin shopping price while I wait to find out.

Thanks Larsi.

Other suggestions?

Check that again, doesn't seem to be the full number.ÃÂ It should be several characters longer, with letters at the end and possibly another letter between the S and 620.ÃÂ GE doesn't find it in a parts lookup on their site, nor do other parts sites.ÃÂ The first four pages of a Google search doesn't find any reference to a GE dryer, either.

Online parts diagrams will typically show the replacement as the full elements + housing.ÃÂ Restring kits are available but listed under separate cover.

DPSB620EC4WW ... for example.

If that's perhaps it, or some variation thereof (the 10th character appears to be an engineering change number ranging from 0 to 4) ... it takes the same restring kit I used, which is GE Part Number WE11X10007. It includes ceramic insulators which don't necessarily need to be replaced.

dadoes, the full part number is DPSB620EC4WW. We will search again. DH and I thank you. We will let you know the outcome.

Update: GE sent part (control panel) under warranty and we bought heating element without ceramic insulators on line. It ended up that it was only the control panel that wasn't working so my dryer is working properly again. Thanks dadoes.

Thanks Larsi. When washer or dryer finally go I will check out the Miele.

LOVE my MAYTAG dryer of 12 years.........and still going strong. Never had any repairs to it, either. Now that is a dependable dryer! :)