This link is to a service manual for the unit. See Section 3 Troubleshooting.

Neptune Stacked Laundry Service Manual (.pdf format, right-click and Save As or Save Link As)

Thanks! I will print out the trouble shooting section and see if it is something that can be accomplished by my boyfriend...fingers crossed!

Well, no luck. My bf took one look at the manual and said I'm not going to be able to do this. This leads me to my next question.

I called the 800 number on my machine and given the serial they were able to see it was purchased from Howards in 2005. Many things are still under warranty (chassy, motor, framework, the top , and the basket). The price for dignosis and labor is $130.00 which I'm ok with. My concern is, will the waranty still apply bc I am not the original owner? I left the original owner a message to see if he has the paperwork but have not heard back. I just don't want to be stuck with a huge bill! Lastly, I found a repairman on CL who quotes 40 for diagnosis and labor...way cheaper but I'm guessing the warranty would be void if not gone directly through Maytag? Sorry if these questions have obvious answers...this is my first time having to deal with appliance issues.

Depends on if the warranty terms specifically state that it applies only to the original purchaser and is not transferable. Being that 1) Maytag asked for the serial number (the manufacture date is coded into the S/N) and confirmed which parts are still covered, and 2) referenced the purchase source and date via their records (which indicates the purchase was registered w/them) ... sounds the warranty is still in effect. However, you didn't specifically mention the electronic boards in the list of covered items, and your problem may be related to one of the boards.

Any authorized servicer who has access to Maytag's tech network should be able to do warranty service ... depends on if the one you found on CL falls within that realm.

What temp water are you using? If the screens are clogged and it cannot fill fast enough it will finally shut off. Does it start back when you push start? May be the motor and controller which are both under your warranty.

Dadoes, would the water fill time do the same for the wash fill as on the rinse fill? I know with the rinse fill and cold water a lot of the time it will time out and shut off before it gets full due to clogged screens. Thought it could do the same for the wash fill??

Thanks dadoes! I will let you know how it turns out. The og owner never replied (Kind of rude if you ask me! I wasn't asking for a refund, just some paperwork!!!) So, I have no choice but to go forward with or without a warranty. Like you said, the problem might not even fall under the warranty. Wish me luck. I will be at the laundry mat this weekend but hoping that this time next week she will be up and running :)
Btw, I admire your knowledge on wd's...wish my bf knew even half as much!

Sparky,
Sorry, I didn't see your post. I typically use cold, however with towels and linens I use hot. The last failed attempt was a hot load. Just tried again on both temps, hot shut off within a minute and cold lasted about 5 minutes. I thought I was going to get lucky with the cold wash there for a minute!

Now, can either of you help me with the black widow infestation I just found in my yard ;) Luckily for me that is an area my bf can handle! What a week!!!

Hi again,

So, I had the repairman out last week and it took him 2 hrs to figure out what was wrong. He said it was the control board (located on the top in the dryer) My bf watched him take the machine apart and saw the part the repairman was referring to. So, instead of paying an additional $300 on top of the $130 for diagnosis my bf felt confident he could replace the part himself after finding it on ebay for $75. He just installed it and I gave it a go...it shut off after 2 minutes :( Any other suggestions? The repairman said that he wouldn't pay that much for the repair himself and we are moving in a few months and don't even no if we will be able to fit the wd in the new place. At the same time, I don't want to be stuck without a wd for the next 3 months! TIA, any input/suggestions are appreciated :)

The repairman replaced the motor board (with no additional charges!) And now the washer is running like a champ! Thanks again Dadoes and Sparky for all of your help...Gardenweb/laundry forum is lucky to have knowledgeable people like you here to help!

Just curious. I believe I'm having the same problem with my MLG2000. I press the start button, it seems to begin filling with water but somewhat weakly. The on red button lights followed by the red lock light. About one minute later, the machine stops, the on light goes off followed by the lock light going off. This happens in all cycles and all temps. My repair guy just gave up. Didn't really bother to troubleshoot. Just like the last time when I fixed the problem. I called another place and they said they would get back to me but never did. Could this be an omen. I'm just not sure how to troubleshoot this problem. I dont have one of those repair test sets. Oh, and just to let you know I received many kudos for troubleshooting my "no spin" problem and repairing it myself with parts from online R11 &Q6 and waz motor. I repaired the main control board myself by soldering in the resistors. I dont see any burnt out areas on the board this time. Oh, and did I mention that I am a 57 yr old female. Can anyone help an old lady out?

If it has a push to start switch, it is probably bad. The push to start sends 120 momentarily to the control board and motor control, when the unit starts, the 120 is rerouted by the main power relay, which activates and bypasses that push button, and 120 power comes back from the control board to where it needs to go. You might find half of the double pole/momentary contact switch is bad, the half that sends power for a moment to the main control board. If bad, the machine will make noise, fill, maybe give a pulse of drum rotation, all for about 10 seconds and then shut down. This same momentary 120V signal is sent to the control board when you press the on/off again, is what turns the machine off. The problem is finding a replacement switch. I had to take mine apart, using shim brass and a soldering iron to repair the broken leaf in mine, no parts were available. If you are savvy and have an ohm meter, you can disconnect the switch and check the 4 terminals for continuity when the switch is pressed. You will have to know how to read the machine schematic to locate the switch and the terminals in question. A competent service man can check that switch for you, but again, finding the part is the problem now.

Tried changing wax motor, controld board and washer motor ... same problem. Suspecting push to start switch. Is there a part number for it?

Parts and part numbers can be found by searching the model number at online sources for diagrams and parts listings. You've replaced three parts thus far and there must have been some way that you identified those part numbers, so you apparently know how to do that?

Funny part is the machine works perfectly occassionally... the washer shuts off exactly 10 seconds after hitting the start button in any cycle setting.

Cannot imagine board being toasted if it works fine occassionally ...

Found the part number for the switch. But it is not available anywhere. The part no by the way is Part No. Push to Start

WP22002560

There are some on eBay under the original Maytag P/N 22002560.

Also search for 22002273, 22002274, 22002541, 33002219 ... which are other Maytag P/Ns that substitute to 22002560.