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Fisher Paykel GWL15

Posted by mikelast (My Page) on
Fri, Aug 30, 13 at 18:14

Here's my dilemma. I have a 5 year old FP GWL15 washing machine. A few months ago it started beeping and stopping after the initial fill. I'd have to power down the machine and then restart it to get it to complete the wash. After months of dealing with this I decided to try to fix it. I scoured the internet and read many postings here on other sites (many of which were written by Dadoes who seems to know this machine inside and out). I ran through many of the diagnostics and this is what I've found. I hope someone here can help. Here are the issues...

1 - Diverter valve error - Put the machine in diagnostic mode and read error code 51. Makes sense that the diverter is not working and the machine can't fill to the required amount of water to wash. I purchased a new diverter and installed. No love. After replacing the diverter it has gotten worse. The machine now simply fills for a few minutes, then the pump fires up and drains all the water. It seems as if any water that goes into the tub gets immediately drained out. Now it seems like the diverter has failed completely.

I checked the voltage to the diverter and am only getting readings of 16-20 volts (16 when I touch the actual prongs of the diverter, 20 when I touch the back of the orange wires - I may have this backwards). Resistance to the original diverter is 2.5 kOhms (high side of spec according to previous posts). The new diverter is 1.7kOhms.

My thought is that the control panel is no good, but I can't figure out why. I took it out and checked the fuses and both have continuity. Regardless, I believe the control module is bad. Based on the cost I wanted to reach out and get a second opinion before buying a new one (also, since it's Labor Day weekend we may just go out and buy a new machine if I can't get this fixed ASAP.)

Any suggestions on next steps?

I should note, that there was a noticeable change after the first time I tipped the machine over to change the diverter. Prior to doing so, I could stop and restart the machine and get a load washed. After changing the diverter I can't. It simply drains when I believe it should be recirculating. I also noted a small amount of water in the control panel housing (not the brown box that hold the circuit board, but rather the white molded compartment below the display. I believe this to be from unhooking the water supply and a small amount of water shooting out of the lines which had pressure built up even though the water was turned off.) I think a ground wire was touching a wet part of the enclosed instruction manual.

I ran through all 16 levels of diagnostics but don't have a reference for anything other than level three (the error code of 51 as mentioned above). Does anyone have documentation to decipher these? This is what I have read.

Level 0 = xxxxx1x1 = 5
Level 1 = all lights illuminated
Level 2 = xxx11xxx = 24
Level 3 = xx11xx11 = 51 (diverter)
Level 4 = No lights illuminated
Level 5 = x1xxxxxx = 64
Level 6 = xxxxx11x = 6
Level 7 = All lights illuminated
Level 8 = xxx1xx11 = 19
Level 9 = x1xxxx1x = 66
Level 10 = xxxxx11x = 6
Level 11 = No lights illuminated
Level 12 = Spin light flickers (concerning)
Level 13 = xxxx1xxx = 9
Level 14 = xx1x1xx1 = 41
Level 15 = No lights illuminated

Thoughts? Any help would be greatly appreciated before I have to go out and spend $600-800 on a new washer.

Follow-Up Postings:

RE: Fisher Paykel GWL15

I replied to your GardenWeb contact message @ 6:08 PM CST.

RE: Fisher Paykel GWL15

What did you find out here about your machine? I have the same problem. Just spent $40 on a new diverter and the machine still stops during the wash cycle - #51 - Diverter Valve Fault.

RE: Fisher Paykel GWL15

I have a GWL15 and the pump quit working, it is not leaking. When I run the diagnostics, all I get is that the pump will not turn on. The fuse is OK.

RE: Fisher Paykel GWL15


You either have a bad pump or a bad control board that isn't sending power to the pump. Should be easy-enough to determine which is the cause. Check for 120v at the pump wires when it should be running, either via diagnostics or set the machine to the final spin. The board should be good if there's power at the wires. You can also check the pump for 7 ohms resistance reading ... or try running it directly by connecting it to a test power cord.

Also could be lint/strings accumulation or a foreign object is jamming the pump impeller, which can be investigated by dismounting the pump for examination.

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