Yes. The pump does have overheat protection if it's running under a load such as bad bearings or if the impeller is obstructed with debris. When you cleared the blockage before, did you remove the pump? Check it again for more debris, particularly for lint/strings wrapped under the impeller. If it doesn't turn freely, bearings seem dry or worn, then it should be replaced. You could try oiling the bearings, but that may be only a temporary solution.

I had removed the pump and didn't find any thing in the whole where the pump was, but when I removed the hose from the pump to the diverter I found a penny and some debris. So I removed all of that. That was what I already did. I didn't check the pump itself when I had it off. I will go back now and take a look at the pump and also try to move the impeller. Is the impeller all I need to check or is there anything else on the pump I should inspect while I have it off?

Also, do you know where is a good place to get a pump?

Thanks again for you responses.

Ok another update, I removed the pump again. The impeller turns freely and there does not seem to be any obstruction. I did notice what appears to be some mineral build up, possibly from our water. I have not noticed any water leaking under the washer, but there must have been a very small amount leaking if there is a light build up on the outside of the pump. The pump does not appear to be corroded though. Maybe this is normal to have a very little build up? I did notice that the pump was still warm to the touch after having been off for 45minutes, so I assume it must have been really hot when it was running. I am checking the rest of the hoses now for anymore debris, but at this point does it sounds like the pump? To reiterate, when it works, the pump seems to pump out the water at full speed, then just quits.

If you have a good quality volt/ohm meter, the pump should read approx 7 ohms at normal room temperature. If it's considerably outside the expected range, bad pump.

If there's ANY evidence of leaking, the pump MUST be replaced. The copper-colored windings can be water-damaged or corroded in a way that's not obvious, go to high resistance and overheat during operation ... which can zap the controller board. You don't want to risk a relatively inexpensive pump replacement turn into a pump + controller board.

SearsPartsDirect.com usually has the best price on pumps. Part Number 420325P.

Unfortunately, it does show signs of a small leakage. I appreciate the assistance. Does the partnumber above include the impeller? I noticed on the website that there was a separate listing for the impeller assembly, but I am guessing that the 420325P includes it as part of the drain pump.

Complete pump unit. I've heard the current replacement may include a line fuse to be added to the leads for better protection against zapping the board.

Thanks for the help dadoes. Also I apologize for not searching better, I have been poking around the forum since posting my original post and see you have already dealt with similar questions as mine. Anyway thanks again and I will update when I have some more news.

Just wanted to update that replacing the Pump solved my issues. It has been running perfectly since I installed the new pump 2 weeks ago. Ordered from sears direct parts. I did not notice any inline fuses on the new pump however (unless they somewhow put them under the shroud). Thanks again for helping me pinpoint the issue and for saving me a bunch of money.