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Fisher Paykel Washer

Posted by sumbody (My Page) on
Wed, Aug 18, 10 at 14:28

I have a Fisher Paykel model gwl10 that is advancing past the rinse cycle. I've run the diagnostic but got no codes. When I try to run the washer it won't drain all the water out. I believe the problem is either board or the diverter valve but can't get parts for it whereb I live. Any way to tell if these 2 items are the problem. I phoned Fisher but they don't have a service rep in my area so I'm on my own on this.

Follow-Up Postings:

RE: Fisher Paykel Washer

I assume you mean it "is [not] advancing past the rinse cycle." :-)

The rinse cycle is more properly referred to as the rinse phase or rinse period. The machine performs several different actions ... drain, fill, and spin.

Anyway, if the pump does run but the machine doesn't drain, then the diverter valve is very likely the problem. It has either gone bad/stuck and not shifting modes, or is trying to shift but is clogged with lint/debris, or the controller board could fail and be constantly sending power to the diverter such that it's always in recirculate mode (in which case the diverter may also be bad and caused a short in the circuit on the board).

Run a Perm Press cycle. The diverter is not used for recirculation on Perm Press. If the machine doesn't drain after the wash period but instead recirculates the wash water ... diverter problem.

Or test the pump and diverter in Diagnostic Mode. With the machine's power off, press and hold Wash Temp Down, then press Power at the same time. Should get two beeps and the panel comes on. Press Regular to run the pump, confirm that it does run. If there's water in the tub and it recirculates, then the diverter is stuck or the control board is keeping it constantly engaged. (Wash Temp Down or Up runs cold or hot water if you need to get some in.) In that case, you can troubleshoot further by getting under the machine and disconnecting the two wires on the diverter. Let the machine sit turned off for 10 mins or so to insure the diverter is cooled and has time to shift to drain. Run the pump again in Diagnostics (or run a Perm Press cycle), see if it drains. If so, then the controller board may be the problem.

The Delicate button turns the diverter on/off in Diagnostic Mode. The diverter takes a minute or two two heat and shift when turned on, three mins or so to cool and shift back when turned off. If the board is bad and keeping the diverter on, then Delicate on or off will make no difference.

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