Whoops! Sorry for putting this in part 18... here goes again.....
Salespeople at 2 stores told me LG was direct drive which meant the machines did not have belts. I was confused to see posting mentioning a dryer belt. Are there some models with belts and some without? If so can anybody tell me which are which?

Last I heard the 2677 is now available for sale at Fry's.

direct drive applies to the washer, not the dryer.

Recieved our new LG 2277 washer and dryer 2 weeks ago 11/5. Bought them from Home Depot. The delivery people did a terrible job in leveling them. I bought the pedestals to save on back problems. Our floors are very solid. I have gone back and releveled. Dryer is perfect now, but washer still vibrates bad on high spin. The problem is worse with small loads. Large loads seem to compensate pretty good.
Is this vibration typical of all fron load, or just LG?
Thanks for any insight.

In general, it's typical of all FL washers with small loads. Even more so with single item loads...

TJ

Are there any LG owners that can help with my heater problems that I posted on Nov. 18th under:
LG washer-heater target temps enough?

cfive,

Are you sure that when the washer was installed that the water inlets were connected to the correct supply line? That is, hot to hot and cold to cold? Installers not connecting them correctly is a somewhat common issue.

Also, make sure that both water inlet valves are completely open...

TJ

TJ,

My husband checked both connections and inlet valves. All is properly installed.

If your water heater is a long distance (or piped indirectly) from the water heater, hot water will never get to the washer during fill because these HE machines use such little water. Since it would fill with cold water only, the 120V heater could never get the water to temp. during the wash phase.

To circumvent this, you'll need to purge the hot water line prior to starting a cycle...

TJ

TJ,

I've tried running the closest sinks to hot first, but it only increases the temps 1c, maybe 2c.

Since your unit is new, call for service to check the heater/electronics and pump that you mentioned in your original thread...

TJ

Here is a link that might be useful: LG washer- heater target temps enough?

Anyone install a 0642 (or 2277) upstairs? I am considering buying but am concerned about the vibration. I would have to rip out a drip pan to put plywood down so I hopefull this is an overstated concern. Anyone successful return a unit to best buy due to excess vibrations?

From bestbuy:

Unless defective, a restocking fee of 25% will be charged on special order products, including appliances.

WarEagle_CA,

FL washers are happiest when installed on concrete. However, if it's going to be installed on a wood sub-floor, it's recommended that you install a 3/4" to 1" piece of plywood under at least the washer, but preferably under both the washer and dryer, and then secure that plywood to the floor joists. A number of Forum members have followed this procedure and had no problems...

TJ

Hi all.

I've searched and searched and can't find the answer. How does one get access to the gas valve in the DLG5988 gas dryer? It seems the front panel has to come off but there's no obvious way to remove it.

Thanks very much,
Nasmo

I have the DLG2532, unfortunately, and we tried to remove the back panel. After taking the top control panel off, the top off, we discovered the front comes off. The screws are in the front after you open the door. But we still had to take the top off to get to it.

We are really kicking ourselves on this thing- at least dh wants to kick me. We bought a highly rated machine but cannot get parts? and have to have a serviceperson work on the goofy thing. If we had realized parts are not available to the public? we would have not bought LG.

Does LG wm0642h heat to the same temps as wm2277h?
LG has emailed us reassuring us that their heaters heat on all temps. Our Best Buy rep claims because the energy guides show a difference between the two models,167kWh/yr for 0642 and 253kWh/yr for 2277, ours will not heat the same(maybe only sanitary).
Our temps are usually 30c warm, 36c hot, and 64c sanitary. I have been heating the sinks to hot before starting a wash. Most people on this site are getting 38c warm, 45c hot, and 70c sanitary. Does anyone know if these models have different heat points where the heater is turned on and off?
Also, model wm0624h appears to be the same as wm2442h on the US lg site and the wm2444h on the Canadian site.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I called LG to ask about the heating differences between the 0642 model and the 2277. I was told that both machines work the same. The 0642 does have an additional option to use "tap cold" which would never add hot water to the cold water cycle. There are a few added features like a 1200 rpm spin cycle, slightly larger drum, and a comforter option.

The representative also told me that the only difference between the 0642 and the 2442 is cosmetic. One has a silver finish around the door and the other has a chrome finish.

I have decided to purchase the 0642 model from Best Buy. This is not a special order item so it does have a 30 day return (money back or exchange), with no question asked and no fees. Best Buy does have a good selection of Washers/Dryers so I would probably just do an exchange if things don't work out with this model LG.

Hope this helps,
Pat

Can anyone explain the energy guide difference betweem model 0642h and model 2277h? They have similar cycles and heaters, but the 0642 is 167kWh/yr and the 2277 is 253kWh/yr.

my 2277 just had an LE error myself. Followed your tips, and it is working again. Only thing i am concerned about is what is considered "overloading" when it comes to towels.
had about 7 in there, got the LE error, now running w/ 4 plust 2 little ones. Should I be concerned about doing a normal sized load?

I plan to install a new LG or Duet washer on a wood framed floor above a basement in 2-3 months. We bought the Duet dryer last month when our old Kenmore started acting up, and my wife loves it. I have reinforced the floor joists with a double 2x12 beam and built a raised platform out of 2x12s and 3/4 plywood screwed together and into the floor joists. I will report results after we install the washer.

if anybody wants to buy from Best Buy, they have a $50 rebate from LG on each washer, dryer and an additional $50 instant BB gift card for dryers and an additional $75 instant BB gift card for washers. Picked up the 1812 washer for $710 before discounts and the 2514 dryer for $556 before discounts. Delivery free (after rebate) and includes removing your old machines. I used the instant gift cards to help pay for my pedestals ($161 each) and combined with a 10% coupon from BB. They upped the price of the warranty on these to $199 for 5 years.

Pertinent information posted to a separate thread by another Forum member...
___________________________________________________________

Posted by LindaTmd (My Page) on Sat, Dec 31, 05 at 1:39

I now have the 2277 LG washer. Have it stacked (on the bottom) on a ceramic tile floor. Wanted to share my story.
First I bought the 2077 from HD. I asked what the difference was between the 2077 and 2277. 2 salesmen told me it was a waste to buy the 2277 because the difference in the 2 was just Money! the 2277 came in platinum and cost more. So, I bought the 2077 and HATED it! It didn't clean my king size quilt. It came out of the dryer still soiled and didn't even smell clean. I came to my computer and started researching and found there was quite a bit of difference between the 2077 and the 2277. First and most important is the jets that spray water on your clothes throughout the wash and dry cycles, helping to clean the clothing rather than just slopping from side to side trying to clean them. The second was I now have the sanitary option which I love for crafting purposes. I had to pay a second delivery charge and I had to pay a restocking fee of 10% to get them to make the change, but I now have clean clothing. At a thousand dollars for a washing machine, I'd say that's the least I should expect! Also, I did get it in white, since I kept the dryer from the 2077 model. It matches the dryer. I am definitely pleased with the 2277's performance. Wow, I was SO disappointed with the 2077.

The owners manual for the new LG steam washer is up on LG's web site.

Model number WM2688HWM

Here is a link that might be useful: Click on OWNER'S MANUALS

Having lived with a 2277 and 5977 for almost a month, here's what I've learned.

I was concerned about the thumping noise in my new dryer and posted here about the "problem." I subsequently read old posts about the use of soft rollers in the LG dryer to minimize noise. The thumping does go away as the dryer rotates and heats up. Now, I may have partially solved the problem.

The "normal" dry setting doesn't completely dry thick areas such as collars on heavy shirts and waist bands on jeans. I started using the "winkle care" feature to get them completely dry. After 15 minutes (about three "fluffs"), the clothes are completely dry (and have few wrinkles). I'm not generally standing next to the dryer when it's done, so this is always the best method for me. Since the dryer is faster than the wash cycle (unlike the 1970's Maytags that the LGs replaced), it doesn't slow down a wash day to use wrinkle care until the next wash is ready for the dryer.

The bonus is that the dryer doesn't get as thumpy. Seems that rolling the rollers once in a while as they cool down helps reduce the flat spots.

My sanitary cycle gets to 64c (147F) right before the rinse starts. Not really what I would consider sanitary. The washer sits right next to the water heater. No kids, so it's set at >130F. What's odd is that the machine adds a little water once in a while during the sanitary wash cycle. It adds cold water, so it doesn't look like it's trying to get above 64. 64 is hot, but not sanitary hot. The health department would shut down a restaurant whose dishwasher only got to 147F.

If you push the "dry level" button on the dryer, it appears that you can also monitor the dryer temp. Cool (pun intended). I'll have to try that during the "antibacterial" cycle. Wonder how hot that's supposed to be?

Always thought it was strange to bump up the temperature in several gallons of water in the washer, or using bleach, instead of superheating dry clothes in the dryer as the sanitation method. Once the clothes are dry, raising the temp to 180F won't hurt them. Well, maybe polypropelene long johns.

My washer is mounted in the basement on a concrete floor next to the stem wall, so it also sits partially on the spread footing. I didn't notice any vibration until I saw a coffee cup on the countertop about 4 feet away. I had to look closely, but the surface of the coffee jiggled during the spin cycle. If the washer can vibrate a 5" concrete floor (the only connection between the washer and the counter), I pity those who are attempting to eliminate vibration in a 2nd story wood joist floor.

So far, I love them. I may even let my wife use them some day.

Mark

Great observations, Mark! I have been noticing many of the same issues (regarding hot vs sanitary) and although I had a service person come and say everything is working ok and that it was my incoming water temp (which I doubted)that was keeping the water from getting hot enough, now I know it's the machine. I wonder, though, WHY LG even puts temps in the manual that the machine can't or isn't designed to get to??? Irritating!!! BTW, I'm worried about using antibacterial dry cycle for things I might want to sanitize like undergarments b/c of the heat damage to elastic--so I guess I'll have to deal w/147 deg water! :( Also, you will melt polar fleece if your dryer is too hot.

Mine is on a 2nd story wood floor (with 3/4" OSB subfloor, 3/4" PB underlayment, and sheet vinyl flooring) and though it vibrates, is not heart-stopping or dish-rattling). Final spin does sound like there's a Huey flying over the house, but only lasts about a minute.

Overall, I'm happy w/the performance--I just am really aggravated over the hot water issue. The more I think about it the more irritated I get, so I'm leaving now....

mark_fleming says:
"My sanitary cycle gets to 64c (147F) right before the rinse starts. Not really what I would consider sanitary. The washer sits right next to the water heater. No kids, so it's set at >130F. What's odd is that the machine adds a little water once in a while during the sanitary wash cycle. It adds cold water, so it doesn't look like it's trying to get above 64. 64 is hot, but not sanitary hot."

Mark,
I think that your observation is correct and your LG sanitary cycle is OK.
In fact, your LG has reached much higher than 64C in wash phase (the sanitary hot, say 80-90C). If this sanitary hot water is drained directly out into the drainage, it may damage the drainage pipe which has a max temp rating of 180F (82C). So the washer is designed to add some COLD water in order to cool down the sanitary hot water to a safety temp (usually less than 50C or 60C) before drainage. This also helps to reduce the thermal shock to the laundry/fabrics when flesh COLD water is input during the rinse phase.

The nominal HOT water temp for domestic HOT tap is 140F in USA and 120F in Canada. Max rating of most non-metal pipe is 180F.

Hope this help!

I've had my LG washer (2277HW) for a few weeks now and have gotten very frustrated with a couple of things. I'm hoping someone can help me on a couple of issues I can't figure out. I've talked to mulitple LG CS Reps and they haven't been much help.

First - I can't seem to get the liquid bleach blue compartment top off the dispenser unit. The other compartments come up easily, but the bleach compartment won't budge. I know I'll break those white tabs holding it in place if I pull too hard.

Second - I can't get the drain hose/filter compartment (front bottom panel) opened. There seems to be 2 layers of plastic with a piece at the top that won't budge open. It's a very confusing panel. Again, I feel like I'm going to break it.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

I think 64c was as hot as the water ever got. I pushed the button every few minutes. It seemed to take a minute to move a couple degrees, so I'd be surprised if it jumped to 80-90c somewhere in between my monitoring. It did add cold before emptying, but that was after it reached the high of 64 for about 2 minutes.

The antibacterial cycle on the dryer is interesting. Normal dry is about 40 minutes. Push the antibacterial and it goes to an estimated time of an hour and a half. It seems to dry the clothes at the regular temp, but towards the end of a "regular" cycle (40 minutes), the temp goes up. 70c was the highest I saw. I opened the door, and the clothes were essentially dry. But the cycle kept them between 65-70c for 15 minutes. The estimated time then seemed to drop off and I pulled the stuff out before completely finishing the cycle.

Didn't seem to hurt the elastic, but I'll know tomorrow if my undies don't stay up. I remember pulling jeans out of my mom's dryer and feeling like I was getting burnt by the rivets. We used to complain that bellbottoms were cool but belltop underwear wasn't. This wasn't that hot.

Anything that can take 70c in the washer can take 70c in the dryer. Cheaper to heat air than water. So I guess I join the ranks of those who are uncertain as to the real utility of the "sanitary" washer cycle.

Still love my LGs. Just that love is confusing.

Must have mixed up the difference between Sanitary Hot temp of NA washers and that of Euro washers.

Most Euro washers use 190-205F (e.g. Asko, Miele and Danby etc).
Most NA washers use 150-160F (e.g. Nexxt, Duet and HE*T, etc).
It seems LG follows NA washers if it is about 70C (about 155F).
Correct me if my figure is incorrect again.
By the way, how do you measure the water temp of your LG?

Push the Wash/Rinse button and you'll get the current water temp in the washer. Push the Dry Level button and you get the current air temp in the dryer.

I don't think that the water temp sensor is actually under the tub measuring the average temperature. When it adds water, the temp drops a lot and then comes back up almost to the original temp faster than a heater could heat it. In other words, I think the temp sensor is in a place where incoming water effects it immediately, but once circulated, then gives the average temp.

Mark

The LG does not run a Profile Wash like the Bosch units.

Ahh but it does! Select the PREWASH option after you make your other settings! The prewash is always TAP COLD. Then after a drain and brief spin, the settings you chose fall into play. The downside is that there is no rinse after the prewash, so there will be some residual detergent in the clothes when the main wash starts. I take advantage of the cold prewash by using Tide CW powder for that and then my Sears Ultra Plus Oxi w/STPP for the main wash.

Has anyone done anything that helps with vibration on the washers at high spin speeds? Ours is up stairs on a tile and it's level but it can get to shaking pretty good. I have seen appliance anti-vibration pads do they work?

The prewash is always TAP COLD. Then after a drain and brief spin, the settings you chose fall into play.

I don't understand this. If you select 'hot' for the main wash, and a 'tap cold' prewash, doesn't the cold water drain out after the prewash, and then hot water fill in? If so, how is this the same as filling the machine with cold water, then gradually heating that water to hot in situ? - DR

Dross, My point is that the LG doesn't have an actual "profile wash" setting per se. As I see it, my workaround is very similar to a profile wash, as the prewash is TAP COLD, which takes care of the stains that are best washed in cold water. Then after it drains, it refills with HOT water, which takes care of those kind of stains. It is my understanding that machines that have an actual profile wash feature, wash the clothes in cold, then warm, and then hot. My procedure accomplishes essentially the same thing.

It is my understanding that machines that have an actual profile wash feature, wash the clothes in cold, then warm, and then hot.

Well, not quite. What such machines do is start with cold water then slowly raise the temperature of that same water to warm or hot; some machines (like the Bosch) do this in steps, pausing at a variety of temperatures (hence the term "profile"). All the while, the machine tumbles the laundry as determined by the cycle. Hot water is never actually poured on the clothing (this can set stains), and by hitting all intermediate temperatures in increasing order the detergent can work on the widest variety of stains.

Your procedure *does* allow for action at two different temperatures, and if the clothing is saturated with cold water then this might prevent the influx of hot water from setting the most sensitive stains (the new GE machines do something similar, by spraying with cold water for 10 seconds before the hot). This seems to me a very good way of using your machine, but it is not exactly the same thing as a profile wash. - DR

We are presently trying to choose a new washer/dryer set. We would have bought a Miele, but they only come in a small drum (5 kg). Just won't handle our sleeping bags and big comforters, and we do so much laundry we'd be in there all day if we split it into more, smaller loads. The machines were fabulous, though

So LG Tromm is looking like the next best choice. Can anyone tell us how life with those is going for them??

LG TROMM units have been working great since purchase. Bought the washer first early last year, then got lucky on snagging one of the last available matching dryers for a bargain due to new model change over. One has to remember to use only HE detergents, and do not use any dryer sheets. These lil tidbits don't seem to make the user manuals at times. Sensors in the dryer will get gummed over if you use sheets, and people then complain about having to run clothes twice to get them to dry properly. Same for the washer, that could mechanically fail prematurely from using the wrong detergents. I think these things lead to many mixed reviews.
They run quiet, look great, and we opted for the high drawer pedestals which makes bending over a thing of the past and keeps them safely off our basement floor. Quality units so far. No complaints at all.

Recently got the LG2277HS (i think) and matching dryer in titanium. Beautiful machines but definitely a learning curve switching from 11 year old whirlpool TL's. I agree with others the manual stinks, and the cd-rom was a waste of time. I'm not sure yet if i really like the machine. Love the capacity but doesn't seem to be cleaning clothes all that well and towels are awful (I read the entire rough towel thread so I'll try some of those suggestions). I'm just using Tide HE detergent and have tried a few different cycles, but the results are less than spectacular (stains still on clothes, white towels dingy looking, etc....

And dryer sensor doesn't appear to be working right (clothes still very damp after cycles complete) so I guess I need to call service for that.

But here's the real kicker... brand new thousand dollar machine and I somehow scratched the front of it (very sad). Thought about trying to get BB to xchange but I'm sure they won't exchange for scratch and don't know what to say to get them to do it otherwise, so I guess I'm stuck. May sound vain and of course nobody but me will see it, but it's like a big knife in the side every time I open the door and it's staring at me. Anybody out there have any ideas on how to cover a scratch on a titanium LG? Called LG # and was told they have nothing for their W/D's, just fridges... well thank you very much!

Any help would be appreciated. I don't want to just pull out some silver paint... knowing my luck I'd make it worse.

Thanks all!

Hot water is never actually poured on the clothing (this can set stains)

Water is wet, and wet heat doesn't set stains, dry heat does. Take a stain-making liquid on something and hit it with a hair dryer, and that stain will set. Do it again, but run hot water on it, and it will flush out.

I'm sorry, but this is wrong. There are several kinds of stains (for example, protein stains - egg, chocolate, blood) which can set when washed in hot water, no matter how wet. If you hit the stained material with hot water, then cool down when wet, and flush, the stain will remain set even though it was never exposed to dry heat. - DR

LG 2277 has been working for us flawlessly, except for some rust near the detergent dispenser. Be careful with the addtion of bleach, (not to spill any), and you should be all set.

We touched up some rusty places with black appliance touch-up paint.

Paying an optimum price, the manufacture should include a rust inhibitor into the manufacturing process if they are going to make their washer cabinet out of cheaper metals that will rust.

Else, like the Miele brand, they should state, "No Chlorine Bleach", else the warranty is void.

Instead, they offer an unconditional warranty and instruct Best Buy not to honor separately purchased, extended warranty plans on rust or cabinet issues. Our extended warranty plan with Best Buy is absolutley worthless, --up to this very point.
The LG Washer with Music

I'm going to be receiving a 2512 this Thursday. I'm wondering if the pedestal can be put on at a later date. Is it hard to do or something that wouldn't be a good idea after the fact?

Thanks all... :)

Regarding the LE EEROR CODE.... This code is also caused by having a residue on the sensors in your unit. You have to use a HE liqud detergent.If you use fabric softner use half of the recommended amount and dilute if it is concentrated. Once a month (for a family of four) put 3 cups of white distilled vineager directly into the drum and select sanitary cycle or the hottest cycle you can. This prevents residue from forming in your unit and causing the LE ERROR CODE.

Does anyone know the Energy Guide Rating for the 2077?

Thanks,

greetings everyone, i'm new here, but have been reading over all the comments... i'm glad to know i'm not the only one who's had issues with the LE error code... i actually found this forum looking for advice on that very thing.

my now wife (girlfriend at the time) bought the lg washer and dryer while i was out of town of business about a year ago. at the time i thought it was a huge waste to spend that much, but now i don't know how i ever did laundry without them lol.

ours worked fine until about 5 months ago when it threw the first code. i did all the things the book said and waited for a service tech. i wish now i'd paid better attention because i don't remember what he did, but there is a series of buttons that put the washer into a test cycle. anyway everything tested fine, he said it was probably a glitch in the computer board. he said he'd replaced several of them already with the same problem... hadn't had a problem since till tonight when it happened again. this time i just killed the breaker for about 10 minutes (because the plugs way to hard to get to) and then i came back on and is finishing up now (just heard it beeping)

i wanted to thank louisaemma for the info on cleaning and the fabric softner... we've always used the he detergent but it never crossed my mind to use less softner... I'll be cleaning it first thing in the morning.

oh and another thing... i'm not sure to the certainty of this but according to my wife because we have the extended warranty through best buy if we report 3 problems requiring service in a year they have to replace the unit... or a much easier route would be getting a service tech nice enough to just swap out the boards for you if the problem persists... thanks for letting me ramble

Does anyone have an LG Steam Washer and observed the rollerJets in action?

When I watch the cycle, I don't see any apparent spray comming out of the RollerJets. Shouldn't I see a shower of spray comming out of them?

I see the washer spin one way, then pause, then the next, and that is about it. Even during the pause I don't see a spray.

So far I've only used the Sanitary cycle, but, my impression is that the spray should be running throughout the wash portion of the cycle.

If I"m mistaken, how can I determine if they are working properly or not?

Thanks!

We have a DLE5977 dryer...and we are hoping to switch it from gas to LP, does anyone know how to access the valve? We have tried to get the back off, but the secret eludes us...any one know the secret?

Thank you!,
Chuck

here's the service manual for the DLE5977

Here is a link that might be useful: DLE5977 service manual

I, too, am wondering how to soak a load of clothes in my LG front-loader. I couldn't find an answer to the other person's question.
Thank you.