When you decide on a dryer, check the installation manual on-line...most dryers permit up to 4 90 degree bends, although it reduces e maximum length slightly...also, you can't use past hose...I should be rigid metal...it's not a major project...fairly simple actually....
Condenser dryers are not as efficient and considerably mor expensive...
Hope this helps! Good luck!

Ottlane you helped alot, thanks so much. One more question please what is "past hose"?

Your appliance salesman is seriously confused and misinformed.

There is NO requirement that the wall opening be above the dryer. That's just plain silly.

Bends in the exhaust ducting ARE permissible, but must be kept to a minimum number. Every 90* bend adds resistance to the airflow and reduces the allowable maximum length of the ducting. Check your dryer's installation instructions for details, it should include explicit details on length vs. number of bends. Use SOLID-FLUME ducting, not the expandable/accordion stuff which adds resistance to the airflow. (I think that's to what ottlane is referring above -- old-style expandable ducting ("past hose").

Based on your picture, I'd vent it out that right wall (which is directly to the outdoors), through the cabinet beneath the sink, cutting 4" holes in the cabinetry panels as needed. The machines will have to be moved forward from the wall by 6" or so to accommodate the ducting (and the bend behind the dryer).

Whoever designed your laundry room is an idiot (apologies for the comment if it was you and/or hubby!) for not facilitating proper exhausting of the dryer ... but that's not unusual. It would have been so much more reasonable and accommodating to place the machines ON the right wall and rearrange the cabinets accordingly.

An alternative is swap the washer and dryer positions (if you can get longer water supply and drain hoses for the washer to reach the connections) so the dryer ducting does't have to pass behind the washer.

OR ... you could consider running the exhaust up INSIDE the wall behind the dryer, into the attic and to the right for outdoors access. There are connection flumes available that recess into the wall so the dryer can sit more flush to the rear wall. The questions on this method are the additional expense, whether attic access is possible, and the impediment in-wall and through-the-attic exhausting presents to the future need to clean the ducting (it WILL accumulate lint residue and need to be cleaned).

Don't even think about a ventless dryer. There are very few on the market and they are troublesome.

dadoes I can't thank you enough, your post eased my mind.

I totally agree with you, who ever designed the room wasn't thinking straight, and don't worry we bought the house that way.

Will update when the room is done. Thanks again.

Dadoes,If this room isnt upstairs and I take it isnt, couldnt they vent the dryer down through the floor right behind the dryer? Then run rigid duct to the outside wall. It could fasten to the joist to keep it off the ground? This would prevent cutting through all the cabinets but then would have to work under the house. Just a thought.

I was thinking this too - most dryers have an option to vent downwards. The only issue is now you have a big hole in the floor, which inevitably won't quite line up with the replacement dryer bought 10 years later. (I'm not sure how this works when pedestals are used - can you vent downward and then backward and out the house inside the pedestal?)

Also, the two pictures provided appear to show the washer and dryer reversed. In the photo, it looks like the dryer is at the left, so running a duct past the washer and through the cabinet wall could get difficult; instead, vent behind to between wall studs or leftwardto an almost immediate 90 degree bend outdoors, hidden under some extra 12" cabinet to the left of the laundry machines.

I would still opt for through the cabinets and out the wall as being the shortest, straightest path ... and more accessible when the ducting needs to be cleaned.

In my home I have a crawl space under the house where the duct can run to the outside. You don't state what is below the laundry room. Either a crawl apace or a bacement would be suitable, especially if the ouside wall is above ground level I have about a 25 foot run to the outside and the prevous owner had allowed lint to plug the entire 25 feet of duct. I took it down and put in 6" furnace duct with adapters to go from 4" to 6" at each end. The air flow is slower but there is plenty of room for a lot of lint before the duct plugs.

In my home I have a crawl space under the house where the duct can run to the outside. You don't state what is below the laundry room. Either a crawl apace or a bacement would be suitable, especially if the ouside wall is above ground level I have about a 25 foot run to the outside and the prevous owner had allowed lint to plug the entire 25 feet of duct. I took it down and put in 6" furnace duct with adapters to go from 4" to 6" at each end. The air flow is slower but there is plenty of room for a lot of lint before the duct plugs.