There's not much appreciable difference between this new model and the previous EcoSmart units (GWL11, GWL15, etc.).

The new models are larger capacity and spin 100 RPM faster.

The aesthetics are redesigned (cabinet, lid, control panel).

WashSmart adds a specific Bleach option, which modifies the rinse process in some way. Softener option was on previous models, which also modifies the rinse (to an agitated deep-fill rinse instead of water-saving spin-shower sequence) so liquid softener is properly distributed into the clothes. I don't know what's the difference between Bleach rinse and Softener rinse but presumably there is some difference. The user documentation (available for download at F&P's web site) doesn't make clear if Bleach and Softener options can be selected together, but I would venture a guess to the affirmative.

As on all F&P washers on the U.S. market, there are five wash temperatures, plus a Controlled-Cold option. The extra two temps (beyond the usual Cold, Warm, and Hot) are Warm/Cold (half-way between Cold and Warm) and Warm/Hot (approx mid-way between Warm and Hot). Rinses are *always* Cold. The non-Cold choices are controlled to specific target temps (ATC). Something like 95ðF (Warm/Cold), 104ðF (Warm), 122ðF (Warm/Hot, assuming the household supply is at least 122ðF), and 140ðF/tap-hot (Hot).

Controlled Cold option changes the Cold selection from tap-cold to controlled to no less than 68ðF.

It uses less energy than Speed Queen by way of F&P's Eco Active wash process. Eco Active wash works thusly (all cycles except Allergy):
1) Initial fill at the selected temperature with only enough water to saturate the clothes, dissolve the detergent, and keep the pump primed for recirculation.
2) The concentrated solution is showered over the load for 4 minutes while the drum rotates at 25 RPM as a pretreatment.
3) The machine then fills rest of the way with COLD water for an agitated wash period.

The Allergy cycle eliminates the energy savings and runs a full-fill agitated wash at the selected temperature (full tap-hot if selected).

Some water savings is garnered via shower rinsing on the Heavy and Regular cycles (unless Bleach and/or Softener options are selected). Show rinsing provides several alternating extraction-spins and 25 RPM saturation showers. Delicate, Easy Iron (Perm Press), and Quick cycles run a traditional spin-spray and agitated rinse. Allergy cycle provides spin-sprays and two agitated rinses.

I'm happy to read that this machine is somewhat larger capacity than the earlier models. We've had F&P agitator pairs in our last two main houses and been happy with them, other than the washer capacity has been a bit scant.

In our new home, we've been trying to decide whether to suck it up and go with a front loader for larger capacity (Whilrpool Duet probably - local repair folks heavily recommend Whirlpool over the Korean brands due to parts availability) or move to Speed Queen for simplicity. (We had a Whirlpool Cabrio set at our recently sold farm and liked the capacity- we weren't unhappy with them, but they didn't get heavy use, but have seen enough bad comments now to be a bit spooked us about going that route again.)

A little capacity boost in the WashSmart may be just the push we need to stay with F&P.

Dadoes: Thank you for your very thorough review. Even better than the sales man in the store.

In order to have a really warm cycle, does warm/ hot need to be selected, due to the amount of cold water entering the machine?

How many years will this machine approximately last before needing repair?

I like many of the features of this machine, but is it worth it, considering the issues many have, or should I just take the Speed Queen?

Chazas: How many years did you have your previous FP machines for?

The first set was in a home we only owned for a couple of years in 2003-4 - a valve went bad early on, but it was replaced under warranty.

The second set was an Intuitive Eco washer and topload dryer, we had them from 2007 until we sold the house earlier this year. The washer never had any problems. Starting a couple of years ago, the dryer's electronics would occasionally "freak out" - resolved if I unplugged and replugged the dryer. It wasn't worth getting it fixed. They don't sell those dryers in the US any more, anway.

I'm in Canada, but I guess they sell the same models as in the US.

Thanks.

sunshine32,

I have two F&P washers and the topload dryer (depending on which exact model) that chazas mentioned.

The older washer dates to July 1999. It predates the Eco design but otherwise is the same mechanicals. The only repair on it thus far is replacement of the pump in Oct 2011. It wasn't used much from approx 2008 to 2013 but is in full-use again as of January 2014 (by my sister & bro-in-law).

My newer set is is an IWL12 Intuitive Eco washer and DEGX1 (topload) dryer, dating to October 2004. The washer has needed no repairs, but also has had only light / irregular use since Nov 2008.

The dryer has been my daily-driver for the duration (10 years) but doesn't factor-in so much for repair statistics because it's a unique design that they don't produce any more. However in the interest of disclosure, I have replaced the lint screen twice (again, a unique factor that applies only to the topload design), and earlier this year I disassembled it to clear a lint accumulation/obstruction and in the process found that one of the two heating elements was bad. It was still working on the one element such that I wasn't even aware half the heating capacity was gone until I disassembled and examined it. I also replaced the drum bearings while I had it apart, although they were not appreciably worn.

I don't yet have any service documentation on the new washer models so don't know if any engineering design changes have occurred from the previous models. Pumps are a fairly common failure after some years, and sometimes water valves (cold moreso than hot). Less frequent is the rotor position sensor (RPS) which is a part in the main drive motor, the recirculation diverter valve, and the motor controller board (unless the pump is involved). Other parts have been rare to fail.

A bad pump on previous models can take out the controller board if overlooked or ignored and not replaced ASAP. F&P includes a retrofit fix with replacement pumps. I would assume the new models (hopefully) have an engineering change to correct the issue.