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Fisher Paykel GWL11 EcoSmart Washer Diverter Valve Problem

Posted by labladybug (My Page) on
Tue, Jul 31, 12 at 15:58

Hi, Hoping to reach dadoes. We have a 10-yr. old Fisher Paykel GWL11 washer and following one of your other posts, dadoes, I ran the Diagnostic Mode and the lights that were on for the fault are 3, 4, 7, and 8. No blinking lights. So, that's fault error #51, correct?

It's beeped a couple of times in the past few days but I simply unplugged it for 60 seconds and continued the load. It seemed to work. This time, I had a hunch and started a load: Heavy wash cycle, Warm, Softener Rinse, Water Level-Medium.

At the beginning of the cycle, the water does not recirculate to pour out of the 'shower port'. You know, for the pre-wash? Where it sucks the water plus the detergent you put down the center of the agitator and then pours out like a waterfall onto your clothes while it's filling with water? That's not happening.

I have checked the hot and cold water connections, all good, all clean. Running through your Diagnostic suggestions I found: The cold water comes out fast and quickly, the hot water comes out slower and not as much. I have checked for blockage in both ends of the water hoses - screens look clean, so it's a puzzle why there isn't as much hot water coming out as cold.

Hmmm, what else? Oh, As you also suggested to another member, I safely checked the diverter valve (once finding the darn thing) and there are no blockages inside.

Once my husband came home, I had him read the ohms on the diverter valve and it read 61.2 ohms.

I greatly appreciate your posts on here and hope you can suggest what it could be. I'm suspecting we just need to buy a new diverter valve. Any thoughts or questions?

Many thanks to you or anyone else who can help me. :)


Follow-Up Postings:

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RE: Fisher Paykel GWL11 EcoSmart Washer Diverter Valve Problem

51 = diverter fault, which is determined by the controller sensing that the water level is dropping during what should be the EcoActive recirculation wash period. The water is draining instead of recirculating, which in turn triggers the machine to refill to reattain the required water level for recirculation. The error triggers when it can't reattain the target recirculation water level. (This differs from Code 52 which triggers if the diverter is partially draining, it can refill to the target level but then looses the level and has to refill repeatedly.)

The diverter should read between 700 and 2,500 ohms (0.7K to 2.5K) depending on its temperature (room temperature, or heated from having been energized during a cycle). 61.2 (assuming you don't mean 612 or 6,120) is far below spec. So, yes, seems your diverter is bad ... hopefully the controller board hasn't been affected.

Incoming hot flow is intended to be a little slower than cold but if it's obviously *much* slower then the hot valve may be bad. Both valves should read ~64 ohms at room temp. Hot and cold are physically different (although electrically the same) so be sure to get the correct hot valve if you decide to replace it.

You should have a look at the pump while you're under the machine dealing with the diverter to confirm it hasn't been leaking (rusting or minerals deposits on the pump). A leaking pump, even if it's not enough of a leak to puddle on the floor, MUST be replaced.


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RE: Fisher Paykel GWL11 EcoSmart Washer Diverter Valve Problem

Thanks for replying so quickly! Our pump looks good. We've replaced it twice over the years. Super easy to do. Thanks for the reminder to check it.

Our washer is in the garage so 'room temperature' is about 90-100 deg. F or higher these days in Florida. lol I don't know how much that affects the readings. All I know is I saw 61.2 on the multimeter when he touched the wires w/the machine, and I jotted the number down. When I asked my husband if it was 61.2 K's or ohms, he seemed to say both so I'm a bit confused. I couldn't follow his explanation.

We're going to go ahead and buy a diverter valve. The local appliance store where we purchased this washer has them in stock. Yay! About $40.

I'll double-check the hot water again and if we need to replace the hot water valve, I'll be sure to do as you suggest and make sure it IS a hot water valve.

Many, many thanks! I'll let you know if the new diverter valve solves our problem.


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RE: Fisher Paykel GWL11 EcoSmart Washer Diverter Valve Problem

Quick follow-up question: Do you know if the diverter valve wasn't working & there was no 'waterfall' of sudsy water, does that mean that the laundry detergent I put into the center of the agitator didn't get into the tub to wash the clothes? Uh oh. Or does it get mixed in somehow else?

Does that mean I need to rewash the last several loads and clean the inside of my dryer now? I hope not.


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RE: Fisher Paykel GWL11 EcoSmart Washer Diverter Valve Problem

Detergent placed into the agitator falls down into the outer tub and mixes with the water beneath the inner basket as the machine fills. The fill for EcoActive is minimal, not enough to rise up and be seen in the inner basket. The recirculation spray simply pumps the water in the tub up and over the clothes. The inner basket is perforated on the sides and bottom (under the agitator) so water is free to flow between the basket and the outer tub and the detergent will get fully mixed in and to the clothes during agitation if there is no recirculation. The Perm Press cycle, in fact, does not run the EcoActive wash period, it fills directly to the agitated wash phase.

A concern in your situation, however, is that if the initial fill of water is drained out via the non-functioning diverter, then most of the detergent dose is lost.

If you need to wash before the diverter is replaced, use the Perm Press cycle.

F&P instructs to place detergent into the agitator but that's not required, the machine will work perfectly fine pouring it into the basket before loading clothes, or sprinkling it atop the loaded clothes.


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RE: Fisher Paykel GWL11 EcoSmart Washer Diverter Valve Problem

Well, that's good news and bad news, I guess. Good to know exactly how that works & about the Perm Press cycle. Thank you.

I honestly can't recall if the initial water was drained due to the non-functioning diverter. It would make sense that the detergent would be sucked out with it.

I'm trying to recall what looked to be happening when I watched the washer fill this morning & when the 'waterfall' of water wasn't present. I don't think the water was draining but it's difficult to tell due to the load: towels. Highly absorbent. Darn it. Hmmmm, I'll have to sleep on that one.

I've occasionally put the liquid detergent right on the clothes too - I figured it worked just as well but good to know it's not required. :)

Btw, the new diverter valve ($43) is in and it works!! I ran an empty 'load' through on the same setting and no problems. The 'waterfall' effect worked beautifully and the machine didn't stop & beep! YAY!!

Thank you so much for all of your help today and in your previous posts to others. I truly appreciate you taking the time to help. :)


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RE: Fisher Paykel GWL11 EcoSmart Washer Diverter Valve Problem

I don't think the water was draining but it's difficult to tell due to the load: towels.
If the pump runs, the water *must* go somewhere. There may be drain and recirculate simultaneously (both flows will be weak) if the diverter is clogged or broken such that it can't fully seal in either direction ... but drain is the only choice in your case of the diverter apparently being dead (it defaults to drain when not energized).

Congrats on the repair. :-)


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