I have not been impressed with my FP DD. The DD cleaning is tempermental. I have had problems with intermittent grittness so much so that I have had to hand wash my dishes! The cooktop is ok but I am thinking of replacing it with a LaCornufe range as I am remodeling my kitchen.
I have had no feedback from anyone who has cooked with La Cornufe. It is very attractive but performance is still unknown.

I am in the process of replacing my washer and dryer. I am leaning towards Bosch appliances. My reading notes the European lines have a longer track record with front loaders.

Good luck,
JA

I don't know anything about FP appliances.

JA,
it is true that the European manufacturers have long time experience in making FLs. Bosch and Siemens have been producing FLs for over 50 years or so, first separately and then in a joint venture (BSH). In the ratings of washers that are available in Germany, Siemens and Bosch are always among the highest rated ones. I have to admit that the higher capacity FLs are pretty new to all companies and that there may be some issues with vibration because of that. We are going to buy a Bosch Nexxt washer and I am not too worried about vibration since it will be in the kitchen on concrete slab.
If your main concern is the experience of the manufacturer, Whirlpool owns the German company Bauknecht and they produce their FLs like the Duet there. Bauknecht also has a long history of producing FLs.
I like the higher temperature of the Bosch xxtrasanitary cycle (170 F) compared to the 150 F for the Duet and the fact that the water heater keeps the temperature at the correct level during all warm or hot cycles. Other than that, the washers are not too different.
The service and part availability might be a little better for the WP though. There are supposedly some regions where the service for Bosch appliances is pretty scarce.

Looser.. I am thinking about the Bosch Nexxt however it will live on the second floor. Do you think this would be problematic?

Thanks,

JA

I believe the OP was asking about TL washers, not FL washers. F&P doesn't make any FL, at least not offered here in the US.

We have had the GWL11 washer and it's a dream. I had no real complaints about the Kenmore/Frigidaire heavy-duty washer the F&P replaced, but the F&P is a LOT better. Water saving, very little soap (around 1/4 cup), much gentler on the clothes yet cleans better. We would happily buy it again.

The side-opening dryer I believe is actually a rebadged GE, and will work fine. I would NOT buy the top-load dryer again. Some folks here have owned one for several years without any difficulties. We were not so lucky, we have seen the repairman 6x in 2 years. All minor things and covered under warranty but very annoying.

The last time the dryer went out it took 6 weeks working around the Xmas holidays to get the correct part in and replaced. On the good side, the repair and customer service of F&P is top notch, which is definitely not true of many other mfgs these days!

Sorry about not strictly referring to the OP, but I was referring to the post of julieda14. I guess I'll have to do it again. Maybe we should create a new thread...;-)

To know for sure if you'll have a vibration issue I'm afraid you'd have to try it out for yourself. I have read both positive and negative comments about the Nexxt being installed on a second floor. I don't think anybody can give you a definite answer since it depends on the specific type of floor you have. Maybe you can find a dealer that will take the washer back if it doesn't work for you. There have been solutions to the vibration problem by putting plywood constructions underneath the washer. You can search this forum specifically for "Bosch Nexxt" or "Vibration problems".
Hope this helps!

Everyone will not have the same experience with a particular brand/model of appliance due to the many variables that come into play.

I've been using F&P laundry equipment since 1999. My first set was a GWL08 and DE04. I got clean clothes out of them and had no trouble or repairs. I upgraded in 2004 to the (at that time) newest IWL12 washer and DEGX1 (topload) dryer. Also have had no trouble with either of them. The GWL08 and DE04 went to my grandmother. She tends to wash very small loads so the GWL08 with its automatic water level and 1/4 full lowest fill is better for her than the KitchenAid (Whirlpool) toploader she used previously (which was my machine prior to the GWL08), which filled 1/2 at the lowest level.

I've had/used a F&P W/D for many years now (GWL 10 Ecosmart) and absolutely believe it to be the best out of the 5 new washers I've owned over the years - and I've always seemed to get what was the "best" machine available at the time (at least my faithful repairman said so...). I have never had any problems with mine (I think it's been 7 years now). I did have to replace the dryer plug-in cord because the new house required a different style, and we did that ourselves.

A friend of mine purchased one after seeing mine and hearing the benefits, and quickly purchased one for their 2nd home, she liked her first one so much.

After a lot of research, it didn't take me much time to realize the "traditional" problems with most washing machines have been eliminated by the different design of the F&P, because they eliminated the problems entirely (no belts, pulleys, gears, transmission or clutches). Most do-it-yourselfers should easily be able do most repairs - another important feature. I even took the washer apart in the showroom, under the guidance of the sales staff. You'll never feel your washer vibrate, ever again.

Never had a problem getting clothes clean, nor washing large items, like comforters. I more often than not use homemade soap (Castile Soap, salt, washing soda, vinegar, and Grapefruit Seed Extract) or ALL (free and clear) Small & Mighty and rinse with vinegar.

I'd never hesitate getting another F&P washer. However, I'd probably save money by purchasing a less-expensive dryer (I usually hang clothes out on the line as much as possible). The washer spins the clothing so dry, that they take a lot less time to dry than other "traditional" top-loading washers - so my logic says nearly any dryer will do the job (within reason). I even cut the drying time even more (25-50%) by adding dryer balls. My clothes are always dried and hung/folder before the washer finishes it's cycle.

-Grainlady

We just got the GWL15, paid $530 for it and we love it. I spoke with our repair guy prior to buying it and he said that he started repairing a few short years ago and he was really impressed with the F-P. He said they have few problems, are easy to fix when they do have a problem, and he doesn't have any issues getting parts he says.

So we went for it and so far, really really like it.

I have the F&P washer, dryer and Dish Drawers. And I love all 3 of these products. I've never had a moment's trouble with any of them. They're well designed, built and deliver consistent, reliable results every time, with every use.

I especially like the incredible spinning/moisture extraction from the F&P washer. This really simplifies and shortens the drying process.

I highly recommend purchase of these products. And, when the installer installed them, he said that for his money, he thought the F&P DDs, washer and dryer were unbeatable for performance and reliability. That has certainly been my experience.

My advice - make sure you have at least 3-4 repairman in the area before you buy this. We only have one and it takes a least a week for him to return a call and setup an appointment.
Also the water valves seem to be a problem with the F&P Washer (GWL11) - we've had two replaced in a year since we've bought it. I'm not sure what could be causing it and calling customer service wasn't very helpful (they kept pointing to the 2 year warranty). I'd rather have a washer that is more reliable since I've never had this problem with a new appliance before.
Overall it is a quiet machine (especially on the 2nd floor).

Any problem with water splashing over the tub? We have a small laundry room with a vinyl floor but immediately outside is the start of our hardwood floor which covers the entire first floor.

Hi workingmom001,

My laundry space is setup identical to yours, with hardwood hall right outside the door. And it's on the ground floor of a 3-floor house (i.e. above a basement) which is why I bought the F&P. I'm a bit of a laundry geek and keep the top open all the time when I do loads (to check sudsing and such), and even operating this way I've only gotten a few tiny drops splash over and onto the floor, and those were when doing something heavy duty like floor rugs, where the washer selected Active Plus wash action - which really slings that agitator around!

I'm sure those few drops would not have made it out had I run it with the top down, as it should be, so I doubt you'll have any problems.

Working mom --

My F&P washer & dryer (that I described in a May post, above) are on the main floor, in the hallway, in a "closet". It's not a laundry room, it's a closet off of the main hallway. When I remodeled, I had the laundry closet floor replaced with a floor drain and ceramic tile, with raised edge. My whole house, except for the laundry closet and the bathrooms, has hardwood floors, finished on site. I've never had any water spit from the washer. No problems at all, and my hardwood floors don't even know they live next to the laundy closet.

I've had the F&P washer and dryer for over 2 years, and am a delighted owner.

I have not posted here in a while, but used to post back when I was looking for washers. I bought the F&P washer (GWL11) and dryer (the rebadged GE) about 3.5 years ago. It has been superb and I recommend it to everyone. Does a great job on the clothes, is energy efficient, and has had zero problems. I use it almost every day.

I don't have the dryer although the new TL one seems interesting.

I have the Intuitive washer for the past three years and have been so happy. It is a simple, well-built machine and it works the way it is supposed to.

Never had any splashing problems or issue with the washer. I like the fact that it has a slow speed spinner so that more delicate clothes don't get torn up before going into the dryer.

I have been pleased with it's various wash options and wouldn't hesitate to purchase again. I think it is just well-built.

At first I loved my FP...now 6 years later I am very unhappy. For one thing, you cannot get a hot wash...I have 2 kids and didn't learn this until I couldn't get their socks clean!!! Then, the other problem started that took a repairman about 6 trips and numerous parts to fix. He didn't know what the problem was so he replaced all the parts. After that episode, it ran fine until last week.Now, the tub will start to fill with water and become unbalanced- small or large load, doesn't matter and the machine will not fill completely or run. I called FP and the woma on the phone wanted to give me a lesson on how to load a washer- like I'm a idiot! I've been successfully washing clothes for 24 years. I miss my Maytag- the only problem I had was getting a baby sock caught in the motor- I left the Maytag in our old house:0(

Gardengirlz, it IS possible to get a hot wash. If you can't figure it out from the user manual, contact me via the GardenWeb e-mail function, and indicate what model is your machine.

What was the problem that required 6 attempts at repair?

The unbalance/no-fill/no-run problem that's happening now: does the machine trigger an error code? What is the *exact* sequence of events that occurs? Load, select cycle, press start, fill starts, for how long before the "unbalance" occurs? By "unbalance" you mean the tub oscillates wildly while the basket is rotating slowly during the fill? Obviously it's running if it does that. By not "running" do you mean it won't agitate? Have you run a cycle with *no* clothes to see what happens?

I sent my set back to Lowe's. I had choosen the latest technology w/o agitator. The AeroSmart dryer broke down in 3 days of use and by day 6 locked my clothes inside.
The AquaSmart washer has only 3 He cycles and defeats the purpose IMO. The regular conventional mode seemed to work, but I was not having "fun". It was frustrating to find the right cycle w the right water combo for what I was washing and wanted.
All the LifeStyle functions were all conventional wash mode, meaning full water.
I was truly sad that this set did not work out. The dryer locking my clothes inside and breaking in the first few days really bothered me, so out they went.

What failed on the dryer to trap your clothes inside? The outer lid lock? Was there a fault code? If the outer lid wasn't locked but the drum door was closed, it can be opened by lifting a finger latch and manually rotating the drum.

Regular, Heavy Duty, and Delicate run in HE mode, which should cover the majority of family wash. The Lifestyle cycles are for specific washing situations. You tried all 17 Lifestyle cycles (not including Diaper Rinse and Clean Me), and none of them did anything useful for you? What are examples of water temps or wash actions you wanted and couldn't get?

We've had the Intuitive gas dryer for about a year. Overall we like it, but did have to get it serviced early on from some squeaking issues. I still don't think it's fixed, (seems like from other posts research its the bearings) but who knows.

Just bought the IWL16 on clearance a few weeks back. So far so good. It's quiet and the clothes do seem cleaner, DW especially loves the sweaty mode for all the athletic attire.

We have had Eco washer (and dryer) for about 2 & 1/2 years with few problems until recently. As of late, it seems like every other load, no matter how big or small, we get a "not getting any water" message when the machine has been running for awhile & is filled. It's driving me crazy. I have tried manual & life cycle modes & nothing helps. called F&P customer svc this morning & they have no repair company in Dallas ???? They gave me an 800 # for A&E (which I have read bad reviews about) & a company that is located 75 miles away. I will be calling Great indoors where I purchased but wondering if anyone else had similar issue. Thanks.

What model specifically do you have? The name "Eco" is involved in several models. GWL10? GWL11? IWL12? You mention Lifecycles and 2.5 years, so I'm guessing IWL12, which is the model I have, three years old. What error code/message specifically is involved? If the error occurs AFTER the machine has already finished filling in the deep wash phase, it could be your drain hose is siphoning, which will cause the water level to drop and the machine will sense that. Check if the drain hose has dropped or is too long / pushed too far down into the standpipe. The end of the hose MUST be higher than the highest water level in the machine.

You could also have a clogged strainer on the supply hoses. Disconnect the hoses at both the faucet and washer, check for a strainer and clean if necessary.

Another possibility is a bad hot or cold (or both) water valve.

Or a bad divertor valve, which could involve a scenario of the machine filling for the EcoActive wash phase, the divertor has failed, so when the pump turns on it drains instead of recirculates and triggers more filling. If this repeats one or more times, that may generate a "not getting any water" alarm.

Confirm what is your model and error code(s), and I can give you some diagnostic procedures to try, and further suggestions on repair. If you are handy with simple household repairs, you can probably DIY.

> "I like the fact that there are only 7 moving parts in the washer."

Ya gotta be careful about the NON-moving parts.

link below:

Here is a link that might be useful: http://discussions.consumerreports.org/n/pfx/forum.aspx?tsn=1&nav=messages&webtag=cr-washers&tid=14

F&P parts are available via Sears Appliance Parts (either online or by telephone). I've not needed any parts for repairs, but I've looked-up items to check prices, which are reasonable. The only glitch is that the online database is flaky and sometimes doesn't recognize F&P model numbers. If that happens, try again the next day, or call.

I did purchase a spare "tub-home prism" for my DishDrawer so I can trick it into running with the drawer open. I made a plexiglass lid so I can watch the action. Sears sources shipments from various warehouses around the country, delivery was prompt.

eBay is also a potential source of parts.

If anyone needs a service manual, I have them for several models, washers, dryers, DishDrawers.

We have a dishwasher that was doing that for several months, stopping with "not enough water" message on the panel. Well, we'd restart it and it would be fine, so we just accepted it as an idiocincracy of the dishwasher. We finally figured out that it was right, there wasn't enough water, we had steel pipes that had closed down enough with rust, etc. to constrict the water flow to the thing. We our our house re-piped with copper piping, and don't see that message anymore.

But one of several things could be interfering with the flow of water into your washing machine as others have suggested...

-Roger

I have both the FP washer (eco) and dryer smartload. I bought the extended warranty from Lowe's. The dryer was fabulous when I first got it 3 yrs ago. The clothes were hot to touch when the dryer was first opened and the wrinkle free element was good for more than 24 hrs. Over the last year, the dryer dries but not very well even on the denim for lighter weight items. It leaves socks, towels, shirt collars, etc damp. The clothes are somewhat wrinkled even with the wrinkle free option. My daughter has the bottom of the line Kenmore dryer and she thinks her dryer does a much better job. The first two repairmen were hopeless even though they both stated they had FP training workshops. The second repairman was unable to get the dryer reattached and abandoned me. The third repairman(who owns the same FP units) is excellent but even after replacing the heating element twice and putting on a metal return duct (which only has to go 6') I still am unable to get dry clothes.
Help!! Any suggestions? Is it possible the sensing element is bad? In spite of the problems, I really like both of these units!!
Thanks, diane

Do you use softener sheets in the dryer? Try cleaning the sensor bars with rubbing alcohol. There's a diagnostic for the sensor bars thusly: With the power Off, press and hold Auto Dry Down, then press Power. It'll beep once, but no panel lights come on. Press Auto Dry Up five times. A few lights on the panel may flicker. Brush your fingers or a damp cloth over the sensor bars, and the flickering indicator lights will change to show it's sensing moisture. The lights should drop back when the moisture evaporates off the bars. If the lights don't change, then there's a problem with the bars or sensor circuit. Press any cycle button (Delicate, Regular, etc.) to exit the diagnostic.

By return duct, I assume you mean exhaust duct. What does the 6-foot distance involve exactly? Is that the distance from back of the dryer to the wall? Or is it the FULL length from back of the dryer to outside the house? If the ducting to outside the house is longer, have you examined/cleaned the FULL length of it to confirm there's not a clog somewhere?

The machine can generally detect an exhaust blockage by way of high element temperature due to insufficient airflow. It will signal a problem by beeping and flashing the Auto Sensing light during the cycle, and it should continue beeping and flashing after the cycle ends until any panel button is pressed. If the blockage is bad enough, the elements will overheat and trip the manual-reset overheat protector. The dryer will then run but there'll be no heat until the reset button behind the front panel is pressed.

Shouldn't be any need to replace the heating elements (yes, there are two) unless something is actually wrong with them. Was there a confirmed problem with them, or was the repairman replacing them just trying to find a fix to the problem?

Wrinkle free element? There's no "element" for that. (Or are you using the word "element" to mean "feature?") The dryer simply tumbles the clothes in unheated air for 30 seconds every 5 minutes, for a maximum of 256 tumble periods. It can't run more than 24 hrs.
5 mins x 256 = 1280 mins
30 secs x 256 = 7680 seconds
7680 seconds / 60 secs in a min = 128 mins
1280 mins + 128 mins = 1408 mins
1408 mins / 60 mins in an hr = 23.4 hrs

Dadoes, Thanks for all of the useful and accurate info that you post. I've got a question about by FP DGGX1 gas dryer. Quite frequently I need to remove the lint cup to take out the screw and housing to vacuum out all of the lint that has accumulated around the screen and sensor. Do you have any suggestion to what may be causing this and how to correct this?
Thanks!

I need to know the job of the part RSN-32A 4Bo3A

F and P is not European as someone on here thinks. The company started in New Zealand. We have the drawer dishwasher, apart from leaving plastic dishes a bit wet we love it. It doesn't stack as well as the traditional ones so in our new build we are going for 2 single wide ones side by side to save our old backs. We did get a broken piece of glass under the spin thingy thing in the bottom which caused a bit of a problem but the guy who came to fix it did it in minutes and said they are so easy to work on. We are also going all F and P in the kitchen.

I don't see any comment that indicates anyone here thinks F&P is a Euro brand. As you say, it was started in NZ, although my Intuitive set (9 years old) was made in Ohio.

With the purchase of F&P a few years back by a Chinese conglomerate I have no idea if US-made F&P appliances are still a possibility or not.