A floor plan would be worth a thousand words.

Install an easily accessible manual shut-off valve such as this (see link below).

Here is a link that might be useful: {{gwi:2004386}}

I'm drawn to the Miele Washer & Dryer but my husband is skeptical. Why did you decide on them?

1) Only use a water flow termination shut off valve if you don't turn off your water supply to the washer (and now some dryers).

2) My mother, father and myself have always turned on and off the water supply manually to prevent big accidents and the washer & dryer are NEVER left running unattended (a flood can happen or a fire can break out). I have the on/off valve pictured.

3) I personally have not used the "FloodChek" brand but they do seem like they make sense.
I use braided stainless steel hoses.
What ever you use it helps if you can see them and have easy access to them to visually inspect them for damage.

4) The "dryerbox" is a good brand for recessed dryer venting solutions. Check the link out for the "dryerbox".

Here is a link that might be useful: The dryerbox

Personally, I have just the Outlet Box with Valves installed Flush to the wall, with the top of the box 2" below the top of the Washing machine. Aesthetically, it hides all that - and if I really needed to...I would just reach in and turn the 1/4 to shut it off.

However, I don't follow the practice on closing the valves when not in use. I don't do this for the sinks, fridges or toilets and I've yet to have a issue.

IMO, the biggest *flood* you can get is with built in icemakers.
That is why I do manual ice and the last 3 fridges I haved owned, I have specically chosen non-icemaker models.

enduring, I have been exactly where you are with a first floor Miele install a few years ago. I was not quite as detailed as you, but darn close. I think I can help with real world feedback (vs so much guessing).

I did install a 1" thick piece of plywood as an additional floor modification for the units (side by side not stacked). No matter how much you prepare for vibration you have to learn to REALLY balance your machine. It is more than using a level and very much iterative with trial and error on adjusting, in small increments, the leveling feet by feeling them for vibration, adjusting and repeating. Tedious and boring, but worth it. The anti vibration pads, KE Shakeaway in my case, made a noticeable difference too and are highly recommended.

I did not install a drain pan. My first question is with such a large pan, will your washer feet be resting on it? I'm not sure that is a good design. Can it hold the machine? Is it solid and stable enough? Level?

Floodcheck hoses are ESSENTIAL. WIthout this is as the foundation for your redundant leak prevention design, you are "hosed" (pun intended!). Good for you. All others hoses are junk and asking for trouble.

Pan or not, manual shut-off or not, you really need automatic leak detection. You forget that one time and... Or if you have some issue do you really want that pan managing hundreds of gallons of water for hours and hours while you are away? I originally installed a Watts Intelliflow. Piece of junk died in a year. Plus it uses non standard connectors so I couldn't just take it off and put on a manual valve without soldering or a plumber. I replaced it with the Floodstop unit. It is much better, but still has problems. Cheap plastic gears wore out and had the unit needed to function, my cold water shut off gear was damaged and I would have been screwed, because cold would not have shut off. I replaced the gears no charge via the vendor and a newer design seems to do the trick. There is no solid quality vendor on this type of thing, but again, Watts was awful and cheap. Floodstop much better.

Any way, the key is layers of redundancy. Good hoses, pan, leak detection... anything and everything you can do to back up any possible scenario of failure. Vibration is tricky, and even with a solid floor balancing is essential. Good luck! (edited for many sloppy typos!)

P.S. chefwong, ice makers are the #1 cause of water leak related insurance claims, washing machine hoses #2. The braided hoses to your faucets and toilets can fail after a while too (just cheap runner inside the braiding, the braiding does little), so I replace mine every five years. It is so easy to do, why not? Gee, you'd think we should all get lower insurance rates, we are all so careful! :-)

This post was edited by deke on Mon, Jul 8, 13 at 17:04

Thanks all for posting. I have stalled out on the remodel but will be back in action this next week when my carpenter can start. I have a new carpenter coming to appraise the progress of the job and start next week. Long story, but this new carpenter is actually the one I wanted originally but not unavailable so went with someone else (who didn't work out).

Here is a plan view as asked for, and an elevation. The two walls that create the corner where the W/D sit are both load bearing walls.

The blue square in upper left corner is the Miele W/D stack. The gray square to the right of W/D is the cabinetry and where I plan to access the shut off valve and dryer venting. These utilities will be in the back wall accessible through the shelving inside the cabinet:

This elevation shows cabinets to the right of the W/D and will have the shut off valve inside the cabinet, reachable through the shelving. This elevation rendition is not current. Instead, I plan to have doors above counter height, and have the below counter area open, without a door:

Shut off Valve: I have a manual shut off valve with the drain hole (all in one box) mounted by the plumber. This will be easily accessible from the side of the set, inside the cabinet.

Hoses: I have the Floodchek hoses on site and ready for installation.

Overflow Pan: I was thinking of a overflow pan such as this one I have linked below. It has a 5 gal capacity and has a 24x24 outside dimension.

Anti-Vibration: I still have not made a platform for the set but was thinking of 2 plywood 3/4" sheets with a sandwiched mass loaded vinyl sheet in between as recommended by Mongoct on the bathroom forum. Otherwise the anti-vibration feet that Deke mentions might work and a lot less trouble. I have see some anti-vibration feet on the Grainger web site for heavy machinery. I might try those. Here is a link:
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/ecatalog/K-16/N-/No-0/Ntt-anti+vibration+pads?Ndr=textsearchesinbase%2Btrue&sst=subset

Dryer Venting: I have been planning to bring it out the right side of the set, and accessible in the back of the cabinet, for cleaning ease. I may not be able to place it in the wall as the studs are in the way of the joist space for the ducting. If I can have the carpenter frame out the stud wall for a dryer vent I will. I want ridged venting, and have it accessible to the side of the dryer (not behind the dryer). If this can't be done within the wall space, I will have to put a hole in the floor in front of the wall for the venting, concealing it behind the cabinet. though this will make it vulnerable to bumping with the laundry basket that I plan to keep in the lower area below the counter.

My machines are at the warehouse waiting.

Any comments or recommendations are welcome!

Thanks again :)

Here is a link that might be useful: slide-n-fold pan

Talked to Miele tech department today. I don't have the set installed yet because the BR isn't ready.

Tech said platform of 1.25" thick would be enough. No drain needed as the set shuts down if a leak in the machine. That doesn't address if I get a leak in the hose though. Tech said the hoses are very durable hoses. Tech reassured me that my floor and placement of W/D will be fine.