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Fisher & Paykel GWL11

Posted by kburkhal (My Page) on
Sat, May 31, 14 at 19:27

Machine starts normally but does not stop filling, regardless of water level setting. In the wash cycle, it does not agitate correctly either. We manually turned the water off and on but the machine fails to finish the cycle normally after that. We ran through the diagnostic mode and the fault code is 12 (flood protection error) - nothing is leaking though.

Any ideas?


Follow-Up Postings:

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RE: Fisher & Paykel GWL11

Please clarify -- The only way to stop the water from running is turn off the supply faucet? Unplugging the power cord has no effect on stopping the water flow? If so, the machine's water valve is bad (which valve, hot or cold, is indicated by which faucet stops the flow).

If not, then two other possibilities: 1) The water level pressure sensor on the motor controller board is bad, which requires replacement of the board; or 2) The air pressure tube that runs from tub up to the board is at fault in some way - cracked/broken/pinched, disconnected from the board, or the little hole in the tub sidewall into the airdome where the tube connects is clogged.


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RE: Fisher & Paykel GWL11

Thanks for your response!

If the machine is off, the water does not flow. The machine will start a cycle normally - then the tub continues to fill regardless of load size or water level setting. When I found the tub full of water, I manually turned off the water at the wall and it shut off. I manually turned the water back on shut off valve remained closed. It does not matter whether it is cold or hot water selected for a cycle. My wife says the agitator does not sound normal either.

where can I get a schematic so I can locate the controller board and the air pressure tube? You mention "a hole in the tub sidewall into the air dome" - where is this located?


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RE: Fisher & Paykel GWL11

If the water is running when it shouldn't after the target water level is reached, it stops when you turn off the faucet, and stays off when the faucet is immediately turned back on ... then the respective water input valve likely is bad.

The cycle will not complete if the water remains turned off for the duration after the wash period is filled. The machine can't rinse without water, rinses are always cold.

Cold water is used on all cycles even if hot wash temp is selected. Best way to try confirming which valve (hot or cold or both) is bad is checking them via diagnostic mode.

The fact that the machine is triggering a flood fault when the water level in the tub is sensed to be over the high-level limit (assuming it is sensing that condition properly) indicates that the pressure sensor and tube are probably OK.

A flood fault turns on the drain pump in an attempt to deal with the overfilling.

Agitation sounding abnormal may be another, separate problem ... or a misperception could be at play. Can you place a video of it on YouTube and link here?


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RE: Fisher & Paykel GWL11

What is the best to run the diagnostics? Should we start a cycle, then stop and check the codes? Or is there a way to get more than one code at once to avoid simply getting the overflow/flood code again.

I'll work on a video too.


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