Thanks for the help, dadoes.

I tried each faucet and it looks like the cold valve....

So,is this a common problem with these models?

Is replacing this valve a DIY project or should I call the repair department at the dealer where I bought the unit?

How do I take off the control panel to access the water valves? either to replace them or inspect them to see if there is some sort of blockage...

thanks.

Open the machine's lid, and remove it by pulling carefully upward at an angle to detach it from the hinges.

Remove the screw at each corner on back of the console.

Tilt the console forward and lift it up out of the slots at the front. Be careful of any attached wires as shown in the next pic.

There may be a wiring harness connecting the motor controller board to the display board inside the console panel. Lean the panel back and remove the wires from the holding clips to allow working room for flipping the console forward.

Ooops. Back up! Forgot to mention to turn the faucets off before starting ... and run the washer on a warm fill briefly to relieve pressure in the hoses. Then unplug the machine.

Now, proceeding ...

Flip the console forward and lay it atop the machine, securely so it doesn't fall.

Remove *both* supply hoses from the water valves, placing a towel beneath each one in turn to catch any dribbles.

The water valves are at the left, sitting atop the mixing chamber. Cold is the left valve with the yellow body. The little wired device at front of the mixing chamber is the thermistor to sense water temperature.

Press down carefully on the tab and gently pull the wiring terminal off the valve solenoid.

Remove the two screws from back that hold the valve bracket in place. Lift the bracket out.

Are you saying that this water mixing chamber is right next to the electrical panel?

Ok now I see more pictures and I guess it is.

The valve body simply presses into the opening in the mixing chamber. Carefully pull pry back/upward on the mixing chamber so the valve can clear the back edge of the console opening, and wiggle the valve out.

The mixing chamber can be removed, but that requires additional disassembly. You should be able to carefully remove the valve with the mixing chamber in place.

There is a screen in the valve's hose connection. The valve and solenoid are otherwise one piece and I don't think should be further disassembled to attempt cleaning of debris.

Reverse all the steps for reassembly.

DO NOT overtighten the supply hoses! They only need to be tight enough to not leak.

Dadoes --

Wow.....you are awesome. Thanks for such detailed instructions.
You've given me the confidence to give this repair a try for myself.

I called my dealer where I purchased the washer. They estimated the repair would cost about $150 (about $110 or so in labor costs, $35 parts)...

One quick question.....
what are the chances that using the washer a few times before the part arrives will flush the valve clean and stop the leak??

thanks again.

what are the chances that using the washer a few times before the part arrives will flush the valve clean and stop the leak??That is possible. One of my valves had an incident of dripping several years ago (probably was the cold valve). I cycled the fill on/off several times and tapped on the hose connection (without opening the console to access the valve directly), and the problem cleared up.

You can run the hot or cold valves directly via Diagnostic Mode. With the Power off, press and hold Wash Temp Down, then press Power at the same time. The machine should beep twice and panel lights come on. Pressing Wash Temp Up then turns the Hot valve on or off. Wash Temp Down operates the Cold valve. Pressing the Regular cycle button turns the drain pump on or off. Don't use any other buttons while in Diagnostic Mode without knowing what they do or you could accidentally change a required setting. Turn the Power off to exit Diagnostics. This information is outlined on the Tech Sheet that should be stashed inside your console. If you change or remove the valves for inspection, you can run the water via Diagnostics before closing up the console to confirm there are no leaks on the valve and chamber assembly.

Well, dadoes....
I really appreciate everything you have done here....posting of pictures and instructions and all....

but it seems the problem has rectified itself.

I changed my whole-hose sediment filter last Wednesday.
My wife did a few loads of laundry on Thursday.

She kept the hoses on all day and there were no drips between washings. I have been checking the washer since then and I am happy to report no leaks!

I must admit I was a bit lax in the changing of my sediment filter. It was about 1 month overdue. I typically change it every 3 months....
I am pretty sure that's what caused the problem in the first place.

But, one thing I have learned from this little problem....
From now on, I will be turning off the water lines to the washer when it is not in use. Not only to avoid a flood but my dealer said the valves in the washer are not really designed to hold back the water pressure.

thanks again dadoes.......
mike

I know that Dadoes "Backed-up", and mentioned unpluging the power cord, but be sure to make sure that you unplug the washer "Before" you remove the console, because there are high voltage components in the motor control. I'm talking 400 to 500 volts DC. Instant death if you accidently touch the wrong connection.

I have to say Dadoes that this is a very informative thread with excellent information.

I recently developed some sort of leak in my washer, which caused a lot of puddling in the pan--twice. I usually run the washer at the "auto" setting, so that should set the water level appropriately, right? The only recent situation that might have caused the problem is that I left some tissues in a pocket and there was a LOT of lint. I wiped as much as I could out of the tub after removing the clothes, but I have no idea if there is some sort of lint screen. The manual hints that there is a trap, but the lint gets washed out in the rinse. My washer is in a tiny space on the second floor of my house, and it's way too heavy for me to move it to get to the back. Are there any troubleshooting steps I can take at this point other than moving the machine? I'm assuming I shouldn't try doing a wash at this point?

Shredded tissues will not cause leaking, but could clog the pump and/or diverter valve. There's no accessible filter screen.

I'd strongly suggest not using the machine until the source of the leaking can be investigated. If it's the pump, the pump can short-out if it gets wet/damaged from leaking and potentially kill the controller board.

Thanks, dadoes. The repair person is coming out Monday afternoon, so I'll just wear dirty or alternative clothes until then! You never realize how much you want to do wash until you can't!

I just have to say - Dadoes, you are AWESOME! I've neither the leak nor the machine, but I just know I could replace that valve too using your photo tutorial!

Dadoes,
I have a Fisher&Paykel GWL 11 washer dided during cycle no power also consistant leak uaslly 4 hours after shutting down for the day can you help ??

All I can say is WOW! Dadoes you are great! It took me about 20 minutes to carefully replace the part. Now to see if it fixed the problem.

Thanks again!

Dadoes, thank you again for such detailed instructions and photos. I have the exact same problem with my cold valve. I just ordered the part and is excited I don't have to turn my water supply line off after every time I use my Paykel.

In the mean time, I have an idea and maybe you can talk me out of it... I was going to switch the hot/cold lines feeding to the machines so that the hot water can clean through the trapped sediments in the clogged filter of the cold valve. My logic is that the same sediment issue doesn't exist in the hot water valve because the +120 degrees water dissolves a lot a lot of mineral sediments that would otherwise be there in the cold valve.

Do you think it'll work???

I suppose that's something to try, but not likely it'll help. There may or may not be mineral residue involved in your situation, could be the valve has simply gotten weak, and if there is then more than just heat is likely needed to clear it (think Lime-a-Way to dissolve mineral deposits). The machine will also beep an error when it senses hot or cold flowing through the mixing chamber at the wrong times ... rinses will be hot when they should be cold, for example ... although it shouldn't stop/interrupt the cycle.

Thanks Dadoes.... My little trick ended up working?!?! I was ready to order the parts but after 5 washes with the tube switched, my washer is staying dry for now. We'll see how long this last. Thanks Again!

Thanks dadoes -- worked like a charm for me too