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What washing machines will actually give you a hot wash?

texaslynn
11 years ago

I'm very frustrated with my Fisher Paykel ecoboost (sp?) washing machine. I discovered a year ago that I have never been getting a hot water wash, even when I put it on "hot water". When I accidentally noticed a problem with wash temperature, I called a repair man and he told me all about the governmental regulations and the temperature control thing and there was nothing he could do to fix it. So with the issue of my tankless heater system and this temperature control stupid thing, I have no hot water wash. (I also have the smelly washer issue, which I won't even go into here).

Can someone recommend a washer that doesn't have that control thing on it (and can someone tell me why the government doesn't want me to wash with hot water? Is there nothing more pressing out in the world to attend to than worrying about how people are washing their clothes?). I don't really care about savings of any sort - I just want to be able to wash a load with hot water when I need it.

Thank you.......

Comments (95)

  • dadoes
    11 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Turning off at the control probably would trigger it to drain and end the cycle. Unplugging the power cord may work, unless power is required to UNlock the door (depends on the lock design).

    Another potential method is to check he wash water out the drain hose ... unless the machine adds cold water to temper it before draining.

  • asolo
    11 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    @ whirlpool trainee....

    Thanks for link to that site. Some pretty amazing stuff there. I had no idea it had gotten so bad. My 7-year-old German-built Duet provides 127F "hot" in two cycles plus 157F "sanitary" and cleaning cycles. I had long thought the latest machines would be better, not worse, and certainly not as bad as your site indicates.

    Perusing your site has given me an entirely different perspective of why mfgrs are so reluctant to disclose temperatures of their various cycles. It would be embarrassing for them to own it. Who would pay $1,000+ for a machine that delivers a "whitest whites" cycle indicating "hot" of 101F? What, exactly, is "sanitary" about 125-135F? Do you know anybody who thinks 85F is "warm"?

    I've also changed my perspective of the formerly-assumed benefit of having an on-board heater. If they're no longer allowing wash temperatures above bathtub range anyway, why bother with a heater?

    What's next? Shall we all turn our water-heaters down to 101F?

    I'm reminded of the title of an old Firesign Theatre Record......."Everything You Know is Wrong". That's about how I feel after exploring this information about the newest machines.

  • izeve
    11 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Thanks dadoes, it does add cold water right before draining so that will not work.
    Oh well, I can feel that the door is hot to the touch and my laundry is coming out very clean on Sanitary - got rid of old stains on my kitchen towels, white sheets are bright and white and towels and fresh and fluffy - so probably no need obsessing about the actual temperature....

  • dadoes
    11 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    ... - so probably no need obsessing about the actual temperature.... Right! :-)

  • dave1812
    11 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    I feel for all you people who can't get your washers to provide hot water.

  • sandy1616
    11 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    I've often wondered why manufacturers get away with labeling cycles "sanitary". 205 degrees would be total kill and few washers hit that. So, what defines sanitary in the laundry sense, meaning what is it they claim to kill, and why is there no accountability for false advertisement? The detergents and cleaners are tested and certified in order to advertise themselves as disinfectant or anti-bacterial. They must have kill claims. In this day and age how have to washer manufacturers not been held to the same standards?

  • asolo
    11 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    "Accountability" goes begging when agendas rule. Clearly that's what's happening here.

    Parellel situation occurs to me regarding good ol' "American Made" Harley Davidson motorcycles. I would like know why it is that Harleys -- alone among all other vehicles allowed on the highway -- are apparently exempt from the noise regulations that govern every other vehicle allowed a license. I would estimate nine out ten I see are running straight pipes. You all know what they sound like when they open the throttle.....and what a group of ten or twenty sounds like. Why is it allowed for them when it's prohibited for every other vehicle? I don't know the agenda but I'm absolutely certain there is one.

    Probably lousy example but I hope the concept sticks.

  • mark40511
    11 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    If I were a manufacturer of a product that was called upon for false advertising, I would simply point out all of the other false advertising and ask what they intend to do about that as well? They are free to false advertise but I'm not?

    Tide has to follow stringent rules but the machines don't?

    Vehicles have to follow specific rules but Harley Davidson's don't?

  • knot2fast
    11 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    I'm not aware of any advertising that promises a sanitize cycle does anything more than "sanitize." I don't think they're actually promising any specific results.

    It's the consumers that make the leap to what they think a sanitize cycle actually does for their laundry. And the manufacturers are OK with that, I'm sure.

  • dadoes
    11 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Sanitize is an entirely different thing than sterilize.

  • suburbanmd
    11 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    There was a discussion a while back about the surprisingly low sanitize temperature on a particular Maytag FL. IIRC, the manual specified the use of some laundry product in the sanitize cycle. The water temperature along with the product would sanitize the load to the applicable NSF standard (which, as dadoes points out, is not the same as sterilization). Of course this is a big disappointment to those of us who like a sanitize cycle for its temperature, not its hygienic effect.

  • dave1812
    11 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    if you want to STERILIZE buy an autoclave machine. :)

  • asolo
    11 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Coincidentally, I happen to be presently involved in minor repair of mom's 19-year-old Maytag TL and considering wisdom of replacement as I write. The prospect of replacing with a machine that provides "hot" washes of 100-105F not encouraging.

    Long-known dealer from whom I'm obtaining the parts says he's discouraged, too. To illustrate, he showed me several owner's manuals from the new machines on his floor NONE of which disclose temperatures for ANY of their euphemistically-named cycles. ATC apparently controls everything these days and they don't disclose what their settings are.

    I haven't considered buying new since my Duet purchase in 2005. Looks like I'll have to start over.

    Very appreciative of the disclosures in whirlpool trainees referenced site: washerdryerinfo.com Will have to research diligently, apparently, if I'm interested in knowing wash temps of any new machine considered.....which I certainly am. CR and other sites not helpful as far as cycle-temps concerned.

    Not especially concerned about "sanitary" cycles -- only used that on my Duet a couple of times anyway -- but I do want actual-hot wash temps when I choose. Would like at least a couple of cycles that will give me 120F or above. Resentful of this apparently universal non-disclosure.

  • izeve
    11 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    asolo, this seems like a daunting task given the recent "improvements" in the laundry industry...

    I think you will have a hard time finding a washer that gives you a true hot wash. I have a front loading LG that does a heated HOT wash on its Baby Wear cycle (stupid name for a cycle but it's the equivalent of Heavy Duty on other machines). That cycle has a heated wash and an extra rinse. You can select HOT or Extra HOT temperature for the wash and the run time is 1:40 to 1:52 minutes depending on temp selection. It also has a sanitary cycle which I use at least once a week for towels and sheets. When Hot temp is selected in other cycles the heater will turn on but it usually will not have sufficient time to heat the water to the true hot temperature (I consider that 120F minimum) because of a short cycle time. I typically use Perm Press cycle with Hot temp selected when I want a true Warm wash, and Baby Wear with Hot temp selected when I want a true Hot wash.

    All in all, it's ridiculous that we have to go to such lengths to figure out how our washers really work (it took me some time of testing, experimenting with different cycles and selections, measuring the temperature, observing etc.) but all in all now that I figured it out, I have been very pleased with the performance I am getting from this washer considering the low cost (it was a now discontinued model WM2301 purchased in 2010 for $500).

  • sandy1616
    11 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    My point with the sanitary cycle claims was that you aren't killing anything at 120 that you wouldn't kill at 85 without bleach or another disinfectant. The ph levels of home use detergents won't accomplish anything like sanitizing without enough heat. In order to get enough alkalinity to do so would require neutralizing, a sour, in the rinse.

    So basically if you want hot use the sanitize setting but do not use it to sanitize things. Hot is for very warm, warm is to get to tepid and cold is frigid. No wonder so many complain of poor results!

  • asolo
    11 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Inasmuch as I appear to be approaching another actual decision-point, I'm going to start a new thread for my research and see what the local mavens bring to it.

  • whirlpool_trainee
    11 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    There was a discussion a while back about the surprisingly low sanitize temperature on a particular Maytag FL. IIRC, the manual specified the use of some laundry product in the sanitize cycle.

    That would have been the Maytag Bravos 850 top loader (now replaced by the 950) and its Sanitary with Oxi cycle.

    izeve, I read the service manual of your LG and couldn't find any reference to a combination of buttons to press to give a reading of the temp inside the drum. :( Actually, the service manual does not even list the temps any more. It does, however, state that heating takes place in every cycle.

    Alex

  • mylittlehouse
    10 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Fisher&Paykel washing Machine has no Hot or even close to Warm water wash!!!
    I just realized this after about a year!
    I payed $55.00 to have repair man come and say I needed to run my hot tap water before starting machine. wow what insight! Boy do I feel burned on that. No one ever told me these machines don't have this Hot water Wash. Why is there a Hot setting on the panel then??
    I don't always use Hot Water but once in a while it's necessiary!

  • whirlpool_trainee
    10 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    F&P top load washers typically fill with water at the selected temp only for the first few minutes of the wash cycle - the Eco Active step. The washer fills some and recirculates the warm or hot water + concentrated detergent over the clothes. Once that step is over, the washer adds cold water until the tub is filled and agitation starts.

  • dadoes
    10 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    MyLittleHouse, there *are* some workarounds to get a full-hot wash. What is the model number of your machine?

  • mylittlehouse
    10 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    I have the Fisher&Paykel washing Machine EcoSmart GWL 11 Would love to know about a "roundabout" way to get all hot water wash when I need it.

    thanks

  • dadoes
    10 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Actually, I'll give you just one method, which is the easiest.

    It's in the instruction manual, described for cleaning the tub of accumulated residue .... but most people either don't read their instructions ... or in this case don't think about using the procedure to wash clothes.

    These 5 steps you do only once.

    1) Turn the Power on.
    2) Press and hold Favorite until it beeps and the light flashes.
    3) Select Perm Press.
    4) Select Hot wash temp (hot can't be selected with Perm Press except via this specific procedure).
    5) Press Favorite to save the setting.

    The Favorite button can hold only one saved program at at time so this cycle will take the place of what you may have previously had programmed on Favorite.

    Now you can run a hot wash when desired by selecting the Favorite.

    The water level is probably preset to High but you should be able to manually change it each time after selecting Favorite. Auto-sensing water level may or may not work, you'll have to try it to see.

    Perm Press runs a slow final spin.

    To run a load on one of the other cycles with the hot fill ... start it on Favorite first. Once it fills to the selected level and starts agitating, shut off the Power to cancel. Then turn the Power on again, select the desired cycle (Heavy, Regular, Delicate, or Woolens), select the SAME water level that is already filled, select any other desired options, and press Start. Eco Active wash phase won't run since the machine is already filled to the target water level. Agitation will start immediately and the cycle will proceed to finish.

    Added:
    Perm Press does not run the Eco Active phase, so it will do a full-fill *warm* wash without any special programming. Use the same technique described above to get a full-fill warm wash on other cycles ... start on Perm Press, then cancel and switch to the other cycle.

    This post was edited by dadoes on Thu, Jul 4, 13 at 13:07

  • mylittlehouse
    10 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    WOW Who EVER gave me the way to get a Hot Water Wash is a genius!!!

    After paying $55.00 for a nincompoop come and do nothing or say anything worthwhile!!

    thank you very very much!!!!

  • erinsean
    10 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Glad to know about the tankless water heaters and the stop-and-go fills with FL washers and even some DW. Never thought about the stop and go fills not even turning on the tankless water heater when it is a short time span. Years ago I had a TL and tankless heater and no problems but sure I would have today with my FL. Learn something new every day.

    This post was edited by grandmaof3 on Wed, Jul 10, 13 at 14:33

  • mylittlehouse
    10 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Hi:
    I don't have a tank-less hot water heater; mine is a regular one and located near my washer. I never had a problem with hot water coming in; I had a problem with keeping the water that comes into the washer tub to stay on HOT SETTING.
    The problem was that Hot would electronically switch to Cold mid-way in the filling of my Washer tub. Therefore cancelling out any hot water that had been filled into the tub.A cold wash when I wanted hot!!

  • studio460
    10 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    After just buying a new Kenmore (LG) washer, it finally dawned on me . . . with no internal heater in the washer, our tankless heater may or may not be triggering during the fill cycle. Plus, it takes a while for the tankless to get hot water to the spigot.

    We have our tankless heater set at 120°. The washer, of course, fills in short bursts. It appears our only path to get as close to 120°-water as possible into the machine is to run the guest bathroom's hot-water tap to "pre-fill" the line. Unless there's a similar, "secret" hot-water/pre-fill/drain procedure for LG machines?

    This post was edited by studio460 on Thu, Jul 11, 13 at 17:25

  • Jane Tokar
    7 years ago

    I have mite allergy and need to was every thing in hot to kill the mites and I can't find a washer that give me a hot water wash ....... what about people like me that suffer with out hot water.........I would pay dearly for a hot water washer and can't find one. Please if any one know of a brand of washer that give you a hot water wash please let me know at tokar1963@hotmail.com..

  • mrb6228
    7 years ago

    I think any machine with an Allergy and/or Sanitary cycle should fit your needs.

    MRB

  • suburbanmd
    7 years ago

    NSF certification for allergen cycle carries a guarantee of 131degF hot water for at least a few minutes. NSF certification for sanitize cycle carries no temperature guarantee. Sanitize cycles were very hot in the past. Can't count on that anymore.

    The Miele Little Giant washer provides hot water up to 200degF, independent of the building hot water supply. You will pay dearly for it, and its capacity is smaller than most washers. A few of us in this forum have one and like it.

  • mrb6228
    7 years ago

    Google tells us ->

    There are six different ways to kill house dust mites (HDM). You can freeze, boil, poison or microwave them on high for 5 minutes, dry them up like a raisin, or put them in a hot tumble dryer for 20 minutes.

    MRB

  • deeageaux
    7 years ago

    Asko W6424 will get you 205 degrees for ~$1300.

  • rococogurl
    7 years ago

    Either of two Mieles will give you a 158F sanitize wash which will kill dust mites. One is the regular Euro size and the other is the "little giant" which is slightly bigger.

    I believe Electrolux also has a true hot wash as does Asko.

  • dadoes
    7 years ago

    If you're asking what washer will provide full tap-hot wash water (without considering on-board heating), that's tricky. Some may on a designated Heavy Duty cycle. Normal / Regular cycles are the go-to for energy ratings so are designed with restrictions on temperature, and often on water usage (shower or low-water rinsing for toploaders). Manufacturers are continually updating cycle profiles so really the only way to know for sure is try a given model or consult with someone who has one exactly.

  • mamapinky0
    7 years ago

    Dust mites need 131F for 3 minutes I think.

  • rococogurl
    7 years ago
    last modified: 7 years ago

    To clarify. To get a true hot wash an onboard heater is required to heat house hot water to the desired temperature -- around 140F or above. So first task is to verify there is an onboard heater on any machine under consideration. Then, try to find out from the manufacturer what the corresponding temps are for various cycles.

  • Robert Booth
    5 years ago
    last modified: 5 years ago

    WARNING: THE HOT WATER SET-UP I DESCRIBE BELOW CAN CAUSE SEVERE, EVEN DEADLY, BURNS IF IT IS NOT INSTALLED PROPERLY. IF YOU ARE UNFAMILIAR WITH YOUR HOME'S HOT WATER SYSTEM BE SURE YOU ARE THOROUGHLY FAMILIAR WITH IT BEFORE UNDERTAKING THE SET-UP I DESCRIBE. OR, TALK TO YOUR PLUMBING PROFESSIONAL. THAT'S NO BS, OR HYPERBOLE.

    I have a tankless hot water heater (TLHWH), too, and I have discovered a way to get truly hot water to my home's washing machine and dishwasher. Between the TLHWH outlet and the hotwater line to the house install a CaseAcme hot water heater booster. The booster is basically a mixing valve like in your shower/tub. As you turn the handle on your shower the mixing valve behind the shower stall wall changes the proportions of hot and cold water and mixes the two so its seems you have only "one" water pouring into the shower/tub. In fact, that "one" water is a mix of the hot and cold. The C/A booster operates in a similar manner. In addition to the mixing valve you install between the TLHWH and the hot water line you connect a bypass from the cold water source (the city supply, or well, or however you get water into your home) to the booster. You set the TLHWH temperature as high as you want it or as high as it is able to produce hot water. The you use the temperature adjustment to set the temperate into your home at 110, 120, 125, or whatever you want. The booster will "temper" the very hot water coming from your TLHWH making it usable to your home's occupants. Then you install a manifold (mine is a four-port manifold) to the TLHWH side of the booster. From the port in the manifold you can get the very hot, "un-tempered" water being produced by your TLHWH. I have my TLHWH set to produce 175 degree water and the booster is set to temper that water to 125 degrees. I have one of the un-tempered ports taking water to my kitchen for the dishwasher (I don't have to use the "heated wash" button, and the dishes are washed warm enough that I don't need the "heat to dry" button either) and to a dedicated instant hot water tap on the sink (allowing me to get rid of that eternally troublesome and electrically inefficient and expensive Insinkerator instant hot water heater that used to sit under my sink). Another of the four ports has a very short line to the washing machine. The line to the kitchen is about 35 feet so I have a dedicated recirculation pump commented with a thermostat and timer so the water in that line is always hot. For safety as well as efficiency I have the very hot hot water lines double wrapped with pipe insulation. The manifold is painted red, now, and I have stilled a hot water warning on the wall above the manifold.

    WARNING: 170 DEGREE WATER WILL CAUSE IMMEDIATE 2ND AND 3RD DEGREE BURNS. IF YOU DO ANYTHING SIMILAR TO WHAT I HAVE DESCRIBED YOU MUST UNDERSTAND THE RISK, AND TAKE PRECAUTIONS TO MINIMIZE THAT RISK.THE SET-UP I DESCRIBE CAN BE EXTREMELY DANGEROUS FOR YOUNG CHILDREN AND ELDERLY MEMBERS OF YOUR FAMILY.

    That warning being re-stated, if you want very hot water from your TLHWH in your washing machine or dishwasher, the set-up I describe will do just that. Remember, too, you DON'T HAVE TO use the extreme settings I have described. You can set your TLHWH to produce 140 degree water then adjust the temperature valve on the booster accordingly. Also, the set-up isn't exactly cheap. Between the booster valve, the recirculation pump, the manifold, the piping I spent about $400. I did all the work myself, because I like to tinker with such things, and I derive a lot of satisfaction from making these sorts of home improvements. If you have a plumbing professional do the work figure on one day's labor. Any more than that, and I would double check you cable bill to see if there haven't been extra movie rentals. haha, just joking. But seriously, one day should do it. Good luck!


    this is a picture of the booster, manifold, and cold water tap-off for the booster. I purchased the slightly more expensive booster from Case Acme that includes a temperature gauge, and a port for my recirculation system. Sorry my photo skills are not refined.

  • dadoes
    5 years ago

    That's interesting, Robert Booth. It apparently works well for you but I recommend against it on the point of tankless efficiency. Two points:

    1. It's much more efficient (resulting in less instantaneous electric or gas demand) to set the tankless closer to the desired usage temperature. Mine is set at 102°F to 105°F for showering temperature (140°F is the maximum output temperature, I'd be surprised if any residential tankless units go higher). I raise it temporarily as needed for washing some loads of clothes or the occasional handwashing of dishes. My dishwasher doesn't need very hot water, it has an on-board heater, and it's more efficient to heat the 0.8 gals in the dishwasher than outside of it and transport through the household plumbing.

    2. Setting the tankless to a very high temperature and then turning down the output flow to attain a considerably lower temperature at the usage point (or via his mixing valve) can cause the tankless to shut off during use for moderating the temperature when the flow rate drops and it otherwise would overheat .... which can cause a sudden colder flow at a shower, for example, until the tankless turns back on. Tankless units require a specific minimum flow-rate to activate and remain activated during use. Too low of a rate, they won't turn on, or they'll turn off during use if it drops too low.

  • doreycrouse
    5 years ago

    WOW! Our hot water heater is directly next to the washer, so we have nearly instant hot water. Our WH is set to 140F. The dishwasher must have hot water purged to the sink if we want a true hot fill. LOL. Our new Bosch dishwasher uses such little water that it is all cold fill unless we purge. This is okay though since it will give a longer main wash and the enzymes will have a bit more time to work.

  • feldercreative
    5 years ago

    So here we are at the end of 2018. What is the recommendation for purchasing a washing machine (brand and model please) that actually fills up with HOT water? I've followed this discussion, but it seems to have deviated into DIY fixes. Anyone got a solid recommendation of a make or model that delivers hot?

  • Shannon_WI
    5 years ago

    Following, re Feldercreative‘s post.

  • boba1
    5 years ago

    The Maytag MVWP575 washer gives water heater temp hot water fills on Power Wash and Bulky/Towels cycles and possibly the Mixed cycle. Definitely not the Normal cycle as that gives a partial water fill and is th4e energy star certified cycle.

  • feldercreative
    5 years ago

    I actually have a Magtag and use the deep water wash cycle but it fills initially with some hot water (not enough to cover the clothes) and then adds both hot and cold resulting in (guess what) a warm wash. So frustrated. I stand by the machine adding buckets of hot water which is getting very tiresome. Thank you for suggesting PowerWash cycle, I will try. Electrolux commercial has been suggested on other sites as a machine that still delivers hot water. welcoming other comments too. Thank you.


  • jujufull
    5 years ago

    I have a Maytag HE TL and made sure it had an onboard water heater before I bought it. I can set it for true hot water on any cycle. When I use Power Wash or Sanitize cycles with the heater, the water gets extremely HOT. I can feel intense heat through the washer lid. Whites and my guys' extra-dirty work clothes come really really clean (as does everything else).

  • SEA SEA
    5 years ago

    Jujufull,


    Would you post the model number of your Maytag HE TL? It would be helpful for people who've read your post above to research it further for themselves. Maytag makes several models and folks can get confused within model searches without much effort. Thanks.

  • luna123456
    5 years ago

    @feldercreative

    Miele W1, Miele Little Giants or Miele Professional will all provide proper heating of the water to the temp selected. No need to set house common water heater to an unsafe temperature.


    We have had the W1 for several months now and have over 500 hours on it. Do Sani-Washes daily at 170F with no problems.

  • jujufull
    5 years ago

    SEA SEA, I'll do that as soon as the Christmas rush is over. Feel free to remind me next week. :)

  • HU-714158532
    5 years ago

    jujufull I would be forever in your debt if you could please post the model number of your Maytag. Pleeeessseee! Thank You!

  • Larisa Batchelor
    5 years ago

    I have a 5500 series Maytag front load washer and dryer that gets true hot water. It has an extra hot setting. I tested the water as my water heater is set at 140. It came up as 138. Super shocked it give me super hot water like I wanted. Was convinced it was gonna be dumbed down temps. Great surprise to say the least. The dryer also has a sanitize setting as well.

  • Mark
    2 years ago
    last modified: 2 years ago

    "Miele W1, Miele Little Giants or Miele Professional will all provide proper heating of the water to the temp selected. No need to set house common water heater to an unsafe temperature."

    Miele has temp options Cold tap, 85, 105, 120, 140, and sanitary 170. Very customizable, and heater wastes no time going to work. Most machines you have no idea what the temps are at all period. If a huge drum which most do not even utilize is not important to you, Miele is the bomb. It will hold as much as a full size top loader.