Question number one: Did the machine work before without tripping the GFI? Did this behavior just begin?

Question number two: Are you absolutely certain you've got the GFI connected properly? Can't tell you how many of these I've had to diagnose and rewire for friends. I've encountered them so frequently over the years that it's come to be almost the first thing I look for. When I ask them who installed it, the usual answer is "a friend". So...I must ask you....are you sure you've got that part right? Because if you don't, nothing else will matter.

If the machine was working OK previously connected to the GFI, then something likely has gone / is going wrong with it. As a first step, I'd have a look at the machine's pump. Visually examine it for signs of leaking, water damage/corrosion on the windings. Check it with a volt/ohm meter, it should read 7 ohms resistance (or within 10% of that number). If not, replace the pump immediately. A bad pump can kill the controller board, turning a $70 repair into a $300 repair.

asolo. yes, i should have said i'm an electrician ;)

dadoes, yes, very good, that's exactly where i wanted to go with this. thanks, i'll let you know what i find. I had the control panel apart yesterday cause the cold water valve is leaking by. i assumed it was something caught in the seat. I couldn't figure out how the solenoid valve came out of the temp mixing housing until i stumbled upon your posting with pics. i should have pulled on it a little harder!

So, um...where's the pump access? I know i shouldn't tip the machine over. BTW, It could be the dc motor windings also, no?

One more quick question, over the past year or so it tends to fault during the spin cycle 'crying' for someone to redistribute the clothes. It was better when we first started using it in 2004, it's a 2003 machine. Seems to happen too much now. Any ideas?

and i should have mentioned it was working fine prior, sorry for the oversight.

Just one more thought....

This might seem trivial, but I wouldn't let the power-cord itself off the hook. Easy to isolate, inspect and test with ohm-meter. I've known several that deteriorated over time but still appeared to be OK visually. Made me crazy until I understood what was happening. Finally reached GFI-faulting threshold during most power-hungry parts of the cycle. Was intermittent problem for months before it deteriorated badly enough to be diagnosable. Curious because I'm thinking that's pretty much what you just described....getting progressively worse.

Otherwise, I think dadoes has you on the right track. I'm not an electrician. Just have had a few experiences that seem to coincide with what you've described.

The only access to the pump is from beneath, lean the machine back against the wall. Disconnect the power first, of course. Remove the wires from the pump. Locate a plastic latch on the pump mounting plate. Hold the latch released, rotate the entire pump body counterclockwise, it detaches from the mounting plate (do not remove the screws & plate). Examine the pump as outlined above. The plastic cover that fits over the terminals can be removed for a better look at the windings. Lubricate the seal face around the impeller with liquid detergent to ease rotating it into place when reinstalling.

Also have a look at the diverter valve that's mounted under the tub next to the pump. It's a wax motor. The resistance reading should be between 700 and 2,500 ohms.

Excessive balance faults could be a problem with
- the off-balance switch (it's a microswitch in the control panel at the right side, a plastic lever protrudes beneath and is bumped by tub)
- the suspension rods
- a broken bias spring (connects from the left-front suspension rod across to the tub),
- (more rarely) the liquid-filled balance rings integral to the top and bottom of the inner basket have leaked dry

I could send more service information on the machine, but you don't have an e-mail address on your Gardenweb profile.

You are awesome!

My email is msfascia@yahoo.com,

I'll have to update my profile!

asolo: Yes, i checked that cause that was one of the first things i thought. We used to have a rabbit and it would get loose from its cage and you know how they like to chew wires. thankfully, this one wasn't on the menu.

I'll let you all know what i find. It'll be a couple of days until i get to it but we won't run it until ive isolated the cause of the gfi trips. Interesting, the code doesnt require gfi protection on the 20 amp dedicated
washer ckt, but it surely came in handy to save us from a more expensive repair bill if the controller went.

Thanks!

> code doesnt require gfi protection on the 20 amp dedicated washer ckt,
> but it surely came in handy to save us from a more expensive repair bill if the controller went.

any electrical faults that can damage a Controller,
won't be saved by a GFI nor a Circuit Breaker

It WAS the pump, the seal was leaking and it ran all over itself. it only lasted 7 years, what great quality!

And the bias spring had come off the tub.

Thank you all for the help. It's better to replace the pump then the expensive controller. Thanks to the gfi!

Thanks everyone, especially dadoes. for everything.

Good on ya. Good DIY work! Good on the GFI, too. Bravo, dadoes.

> It's better to replace the pump then the expensive controller. Thanks to the gfi!

GFI's and Circuit Breakers aren't designed to protect electronics ...

Yo, regus. You are correct. Nobody is disputing your assertion.

Then, again, it did work out well, didn't it? And, except for the GFI clue, there was no other indication. Being an electrician, he knew something was wrong and began his search right away. Without the GFI-trip, greater trouble would have been the first indication. Seems to me the lead from the GFI-trip was well-attended.

He sent a picture of the pump to me. It's quite obvious by sight that the pump is shot. :-)

I suppose remains to be seen until after he gets the new pump if *maybe* the controller board is already affected. Ooops, I didn't consider that possibility until just now.