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Plumbing Wall behind Stackable W/D: partial or full finish?

Posted by SparklingWater (My Page) on
Fri, May 18, 12 at 13:00

Cross post with plumbing.

My laundry area is a 102" (H)" x 36" (W) x 32" (D) closet which for twenty years has served me well with two stackable W/D (a GE, then the infamous first model Maytag Neptune FL, now twelve years out and still ticking except bearings failing).

I will be replacing the Neptune soon with a new stackable SQ from which I hope to get many years of service.

We pulled the Neptune out yesterday to prepare the space (clean, prep, new paint etc). I am debating what to do with the rear closet wall. Years ago in a very cold freeze, a pipe burst and was attended to by myself immediately through basement WD water turnoff. Since then I have insulated each new pipe with rubber foam, the inter stud wall with fire rated batting 3.5 inch thick insulation, put on new gated washers, replaced stainless covered hoses every five years and changed out venting hose for lint as well as check function of outside damper twice per year.

The back closet wall is partially open where the hot and cold pipe(s) come up from below and waste venting hose rests. I left it this way so plumbers have easy access to both pipes, water return and faucets. I just changed out the washer/dryer gate faucets in the basement (not closet) to ball valve (also did the main water gate to ball valve). I'm want to ensure limited hammering- there is some since this change out of basement pipes and gate valves curiously. Might need to secure those new basement pipes tighter with brackets to wood. I'm adding Sioux Chief mini resters on both cold and hot faucets in closet: I've got the vertical space.

I believe some fire graded dry wall covering this is on point now. I would screw or nail it to studs. Does anyone know what grade is recommended or have any suggestions. The aperture is 30" h x 36" w x what ever depth of dry wall is chosen. I prefer function over form, and think a partial finish back wall which allows removal and attention if needed is better than not.

Anything I might be missing or any suggestions on my idea? I'm a KISS kind of person.

Thank you very much in advance.


Follow-Up Postings:

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RE: Plumbing Wall behind Stackable W/D: partial or full finish?

I'm not sure what the designation is now, but there is drywall available for damp areas. It used to be 'green' board.

If you're worried that perhaps a plumber may need to go back in there, make an access panel.


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RE: Plumbing Wall behind Stackable W/D: partial or full finish?

Thats a good idea re: the access panel. Oatey sells a 6 x 9 inch one that fits between studs over the pipes and insulation. I presume mounting it midway would offer some access above and below for work? Or, up higher to where the pipes almost merge with the faucets (although they sit in their own separate Oatey faucet box. The drywall cut out would then include the access panel and the electrical box. Thanks.


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RE: Plumbing Wall behind Stackable W/D: partial or full finish?

Dedicated W/D closet is finished and yet provides emergency access:

-45 degree angle hot/cold ball valve lever faucets replaced known-to-not turn-when- needed gated facets and all installed in Oatey wall faucet box

-main house water intake pressure reducer added to lessen any whole house hammering. Water main ball valve lever placed in yellow placed for easy ID.

-hot water heater drained and filled; water temp adjusted for hot

-one closet water pipe replaced and both hot and cold pipes insulated well

-new insulation placed between wall studs

-fire-rated 5/8" dry wall cut with appropriate apertures and installed all the way to side walls then attached via screws to vertical studs inside floor trim

- entire interior of closet (102"h x 36" w x 32"d) prepped and painted as well as closet door

-fluorescent light bulb in ceiling light for longevity

-new 4" diameter semi-rigid aluminum ducting (< 4 foot run)

-new rigid wall duct for brief run to outside to new exhaust vent with (verified) louvered damper well above snow line

-foam insulation around small areas of new exhaust vent to help secure it in masonry in addition to mason nails as well as add further weather insulation

- existing 3 wire Grounded Neutral 120/240 volt electrical receptacle as well accessible dedicated 30 Amp circuit for ease of turn off

Aside from plumbing, this was a DIY job. Our quote for a finished closet was $1000 excluding materials and painting (in addition to plumber charges). Main goals were to have finished back closet wall with water pipes as well as washer discharge pipe accessible without having to tear apart the wall. Electrical panel easily accessible. Also to provide better winterization for overall W/D function, fire wall retardant, proper dryer venting all appearing seamless with the adjacent closet walls. Thanks for your tip weedmeister. It led to an eventual solution.


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