75 ohms is a bit high, the valves should read 64 ohms ... but resistance reading varies with ambient temp.

Does the cold valve work via Diagnostic Mode? Have you checked if the cold connection terminal on the controller board may be corroded or not making contact?

14 years old? Doesn't seem likely. I have a GWL08 (which is two model-series older than GWL11) bought in July 1999 which makes it coming up on 13 years. GWL11 (Phase 6 Series 11) was released circa 2002 but was on the market for several years. What's your serial number (the year and month of manufacture is coded in it)?

Thank you for the quick reply. The S/N is MPN575836.

Unclear about what you mean about the cold valve working in Diagnostic Mode.

Nothing looks corroded anywhere and the valves are new.

I bought a new multimeter. I zeroed it out and set the Ohm setting to X10. Placing the leads on the valve terminals yields a reading just left of the 7 line.

If I'm interpreting the S/N correctly, 7th month of 2003.

I suppose you may not be able to access Diagnostic Mode if the 49 fault triggers immediately upon power connection (which usually it does). Sometimes pressing any button will (temporarily) clear a fault display. For Diagnostic Mode press/hold Wash Temp Down, then press Power at the same time. Should get two beeps and the panel goes into Diagnostic Mode. Press Wash Temp Down to toggle the cold valve on/off. Wash Temp Up runs hot. Regular cycle runs the pump. Press Spin Speed Up and/or Down repeatedly as needed to get both Hold and Slow lit, cycle progress lights indicate the last recorded fault code.

What are the resistance readings on the old valves? If you have the old valves, try connecting the old HOT valve (being as it's theoretically OK) to the COLD wiring harness, see if 49 still triggers. No need to physically swap it into the mixing chamber, just connect it to the wiring.

Symptoms thus far largely point to a bad controller board. That's the only thing left regards to water valves other than the valves and wiring.

dadoes,

Thank you again for your help.

Resistance readings for all valves, old and new, each read about 75 ohms.

I cannot get it back to diagnostic mode like I was able to do on Sunday using the combination of a new valve on the cold water and the old hot water valve.

Now it just beeps and displays Code 49. It won't reset. When you push start, it stops beeping and the lid locked light illuminates and stays on.

I too starting suspecting the motor controller board. Is it time to order a new one?

By the way, the machine is about 14 years old so it was likely manufactured in 1998 or so.

By the way, the machine is about 14 years old so it was likely manufactured in 1998 or so.Not per the serial number.

MPN575836

M = 7th month
P = 3rd year (likely 2003 on a decade coding syntax, not 1993 or 2013)
N = New Zealand plant code
575836 = production sequence

1998 year code would be A.

Your choice on changing the board, but (unless I'm overlooking something) the board is the only remaining component that could be the fault.

Sorry, got the year and month codes above swapped for position.

M = 3rd year
P = 7th month

1998 would still be A in first position.

Dadoes,

You've been wonderful and I'm sure this post is going to help many others like me.

Thank you for defining the manufacturing date. My recollection was that in 2004 when we moved into our house here, my wife told me the washer and dryer were both virtually brand new in 2004 and hadn't been used much if at all. Recently, she claimed they were 14 years old. She had it wrong and you helped me correct her - a rare and priceless event!

I'm going to order the control board. I'll update you on whether or not the problem is solved once I receive it. Is it difficult to install or is it fairly straightforward?

Thank you again! You have, once again, helped me immensely and no doubt saved us a ton of money.

As I've heard, there may be a change on where the diverter valve connects to the board. Everything else should match-up directly. Instructions should be included. Some replacement boards may include the same retrofit fuse kit that's included now with replacement pumps.

Dadoes,

Thanks to your expert advice, I was able to repair our washing machine just in time for a weeklong beach vacation. Thus, the delay in me thanking you once again for your help.

I bought a digital multimeter and it gave me better readings for the inlet valves - both around 64 ohms.

And, you were right, the controller board came with a fuse that had to be spliced into the motor wiring.

Thanks again. Onto the next dozen problems. Until next time . . .

Dadoes,

I knew I'd need to contact you again. This is the last time we attempt to fix this F&P. Depending on the cost of this repair, it's time for a new washer & dryer.

Here's my issue and I hope you can help once again. The washer suddenly stopped draining & spinning. I get error code 37 (43 with some parts disassembled - tub, pump, lid, etc.). All hoses are clear and the resistance on the pump is 6.9 - 7. In fact, the propeller spins so I know it's still good.

In the rinse or spin cycle, the tub twists back & forth in in small increments but doesn't do anything beyond that before just giving a hum sound. I attempted to test the stator (I'm assuming at the bottom of the washer next to the pump) for 32 ohms but no where that I touched the stator could I get that reading - primarily got 2 or 3 ohms.

Can you help? This washer seems to breakdown at the most inopportune moments; not that there's any good time for a washer to break down.

Thank you in advance.

Code 37 is pump blocked ... meaning that the water level is not dropping during drain, which could also be a diverter malfunction ... or a bad water level sensor on the control board.

Code 43 is off-balance switch fault ... either it's stuck "on" or the wires to it are disconnected/shorted/broken.

Check the SmartDrive motor stator winding resistance across the wires at the Pump/Motor connector plug on the control board in the console, not directly at the motor. Remove the connector on top edge of the board, left group of five wires. Test for 32 ohms across red & blue, blue & yellow, and red & yellow. Brown & white wires on the same connector are the pump. DO NOT test for resistance on the RPS connector, the RPS (rotor position sensor) can be damaged, is to be checked only with a specific tester-tool.

Does the basket spin freely by hand, and does the machine agitate OK when a load is run?

Make sure the basket "floats" properly on the drive shaft. With no water in the tub, grab the basket with both hands 180* apart and lift upwards. It should slip up/down on the shaft, approx 3/8".

Dadoes,

Thank you again. I cleaned the washer while it was disassembled, reassembled it and then tested the pump and stator per your direction. Both checked at 7 ohms and 32 ohms respectively. Long and short, the washer worked again. I don't know why it stopped in the 1st place. Perhaps something got caught in the drive shaft. It's unclear but it's working fine again so thank you again x #3.

I have a similar issue with my GWL11. Water stopped flowing one suddenly last week and when I ran the diagnostic mode it showed error code 49 and now it is stuck there. The resistance for both the cold and ot water valves checks out at 62 ohms so I think chencing the inlet valve might not solve the issue.

jex4life - So chencing the controller fix your issue?

Is there a way to check if the controller is bad?

Holyus,

As you can see from the exchange with Dadoes, I ended up changing the motor controller and that solved the problem. It was an easy DIY. Suggest shopping around the net for best price. I found a place in NC with great pricing and fast shipping but the name escapes me unfortunately. Like the other components, testing the resistance will tell you which is bad. On the washer is a pullout with all of the std resistance levels for each component. If the valves are good, the only thing left is the controller. Good luck.

holyus,

The water valves should read 64 ohms, so 62 ohms is within tolerance. However, it's possible for a valve to be electrically good but mechanically bad in some way ... or electrically good when cool and break-down when the coil gets heated from use.

I'm not clear on whether the water runs via Diagnostic Mode (press Wash Temp up for hot, Wash Temp down for cold). Yes? No?

Replacing the controller board is expensive compared to the valves but confirming the board is bad is largely a process of eliminating other components as being the problem. It would seem reasonable that power output from the board to the valves could be tested but unfortunately that's not so straight-forward. The valves run on 24 volts DC current and the board may rapidly pulse the current to control the flow rate through the valves, which tends to not allow a consistent reading even when everything is working OK.

Thanks /dadoes,

Like Jax4life I am unable to run it in diagnostic mode. 49 comes as soon as I plug it in and pressing start just turns the lid locked light on. In the mean time I have tried the following: cleaned the filter on the hoses, swapped the hot and cold water valves and emptied the mixing chamber but the error prevails. Since my symptoms are similar to Jax4life I am leaning towards ordering the controller. Valve will follow if needed.

Let me know if you recall the site you bought it from.

cheers.

This post was edited by holyus on Mon, Sep 23, 13 at 22:05

Cleaning the hose or valve screens and emptying the mixing chamber will have no effect on the situation. Code 49 is an electrical problem, the controller has detected invalid voltage on the cold valve. Either the cold valve electrically failed, a broken wire, or the controller is bad. You said swapping the valves has no effect so that seemingly implicates the board.

Parts sources include SearsPartsDirect.com, FisherPaykelParts.net, FisherPaykelParts.com, eBay, and possibly a local parts source if you have one that carries F&P items.