Congrats on the set. Years ago, when we had a couple of Miele's smaller "Euro" models, we also had them hooked to the cold water only. Per Mieles' recommendation, we used a brass Y connector. Hope this helps!

Thanks I will try to get one tomorrow, I hope it works, I'm so disappointed I can not use it.

Agree with Larsi, the problem is the absence of a Y connector (connected on the upstream side to your cold water supply and downstream to each of your intake hoses.) You can use a small two-tailed brass connector, or a double-legged rubber hose set-up, depending on your space needs.

Once that's done, your machine will work just fine.

That's the way my Miele 1918 and 1986 machines are connected.

Whew! That's an easy fix to make. Enjoy your new machine!

Hope you got the Miele water intake hoses. They are important, not generic parts. There are fine, easy to damage, mesh filters on both ends of the water delivery system - one on the head of the intake hose and one in the machine inlet connection. They protect the innards of the water distribution plenun from small particles of silt and pipe rust. If you don't have them, it's worth sending to Miele for them. They're not cheap, but definitely cheaper than replacing the downstream part if it gets clogged up.

Liriodendron

I just connected the water hose Y connector. I still don't think my machine is running correctly, it is making noises and I don't know if that is normal or something is wrong. It filled with water, more and better than before I installed the Y connector. Once filled with water it starts clicking and humming, no movement in the drum. Am I being impatient or paranoid. After it fills with water, should I expect the machine to start agitating soon after? I feel very stupid asking these basic questions, but if something is wrong I do not want to damage the machine or fry something electrical just because I don't know what should be happening.

Did the washer have shipping stuts in place when you moved it? They keep the drum from shifting during moving and avoid damage?

I have a Miele W4842 and mine does some clicking but before it fills with water. It sounds to me like the various sensors checking things before it starts filling.

No, the struts were not available in our remote area, the move was done very smoothly, no stairs or bumping. No "grabbing on" by the control panel area either.

potterylady,

Simply call Miele at the following link and explain to them your situation. It doesn't matter that you purchased it used: Miele Problem Solving

I called them yesterday and they suggested a service call from their technician.I imagine that will very expensive. I will do that after I have tried to figure out myself with the help of this forum. The closest service tech is 1.5 hours away. Is there a way to diagnose a bearing problem? My drum does not spin or move at all. The machine fills with water and drains no problem. Hope it is not the control panel, but I do not know how to diagnose that either. This is my first Miele washer.

I've not used this service, and cannot vouch for them, but they have the service manual for download--at a cost:

Miele W 1903 Service Manual

If someone here has the manual they might be able to send you a copy. You can try posting a thread request.

Miele used to post its service charge for visiting your residence out-of-warranty, but it looks like they no longer do so. Also, after fifty (50) miles there was additional mileage charge, but I cannot find that any longer on their website.

This is very odd!

You did see it work at sellers' home, right?

What have you got it plugged in to? This may sound stupid but you do know it only runs on 220V, and even then needs a special, not ordinary dryer, socket?

If you have the machine empty and water-free, can you spin the drum by hand? It should turn easily and not make much, if any noise when you do this. (Bad bearings will audibly grind even if you turn by hand.)

My 1918 begins to fill with water as soon as I set the dial for proper temp/cycle. Water flows in and drum makes some initial back and forth rotations: first one way, then reversed all the while the water is flowing in. Then there's a puase in the water fill and the machine just goes around. Then another period of fill and alternate rotations. Eventually (after about 5 10 minutes) the machine settles down for business.

If the drum will spin by hand freely, but when you would think it would start going around under power (during fill which may not be obvious), but certainly once it has finally stopped filling and you are still seeing no drum action it sounds to me as if you have a some kind of fault or disconnect in the power system. Either the motor isn't working or the connection from the motor to the drum has gotten loose, or broken.

Is there someone in your household with a multimeter to do a little poking around to see if you have an electrical fault somewhere?

If you move the control knob to the drain position does the drain pump work to expel the water? (If both drum motor and drain motor aren't working, that would sound like an electrical supply/connection or possibly a fuse issue.) If you machine has any cycle-on lights, are they working? If not see above.

Have you cleaned out the the pin trap? Sometimes things can get stuck in there but that usually just affects the drain pump's function, not the main drum.

Is it possible that something, like a tool, has fallen into the machine and is causing the drum to bind?

Occasionally when I have particularly cold water (and I only feed cold), I can here the calrods (heating units) sort of clicking as they warm up, but that wouldn't interfere with the drum rotation.

This is a remote chance, but is it possible that the shipping struts or parts of them actually were inside the machine and are now jammed-up inside? It might be worth the effort to lift the machine up in such a way that you can look at it from underneath (a huge lift, I know!) If you could even tip it up enough to allow someone to peer underneath and try to move the drum by hand, it might tell you something.

Yur worry about the bearings seems remote as I think they screech and misbehave a bit before giving up the ghost.

You could try asking these questions at automaticwashers.com. (or may be it's automaticwasher.com) Some of the extreme afficionados of older machines hang out there and they are helpful.

If you allow the drum to fill with water, using the max fill selections, is the water visible on the drum window? I wonder if there's a water intake fault going on?

On my much older Asko, the cycle progression is run by a mechanical cyclinder that looks like miniature player piano roll. Once it failed and without the little tabs going around all I heard was clicking, not sloshing of drum movement. After replacement all was fine. I would be surprised if the Miele has the same cycle controller, but it might.

If the service manual isn't too expensive, it might be worth having because at least it will give you wiring diagram and parts blow-up to order from.

Have you reported this to the sellers?

Hope we can help you figure this out!

L.

Hold off ordering the service manual. I just got it downloaded. I'll look to see if I think it's worth it.

L.

Thank you everyone for the help, looks like I need it! L., to answer your questions:I had an electrician do the 220V wiring, the dryer T1515 is fine, no issues(using the Miele receptacle box for both), the washer drum does not move and I cannot move it, the drain pump is working. I just tried the spin cycle and found out it does screach!

Ok, the manual is legit (and only $6.99, payable with Paypal). It covers all the 1900 series from 1903-1986, so all of my machines. It appears quite detailed (68 pages) with lots of diagrams and disassembly instructions (my fave since I am dangerous when I have an Allen wrench in hand and then I forget how it came apart).

It will take me awhile to read through it tonight. If you are eager to move forward, I think it's 7 bucks, well spent. It was a quick d/l even at my pokey connection speed (less than 2 min.)

More later.

And many, many thanks to Farehnheit 451 for posting the link. I've been wanting such a thing for years. Even if we can't help the OP, you've made my day!

L.

Is it possible that something, like a tool, has fallen into the machine and is causing the drum to bind?
I just tried the spin cycle and found out it does screach!

Sounds like during transport that debris of some sort might have lodged itself enough to the bind the drum. And many, many thanks to Fahrenheit 451 for posting the link

You're welcome.

Thanks L., It only came with 1 water hose.

Little LED flashing lights that appear next to words on the control panel are the indicators of various kinds of faults (from simple to major; electronic to mechanical.)

So, are any lights blinking when the machine is on, at any point? If you tell me what it says (not what the light says, but what is written next to the light) I will check to see what it means. I knew this, but my machines always work perfectly, so I'd forgotten. Plus I think the service manual has a more sophisticated service-tech level assortment of light/fault explanations. Some of the consumer manuals I have just say if this LED flashes call for help. Now I know, or at least can announce to my DH that he'd better plan on replacing the "Tachogenerator" this weekend, or whatever. (insert evil-sounding chortle)

I'm hoping this is progress.

L.

Then you only need one hose. That's good, because it means so far the machine is conforming to this manual.

I'd disconnect the Y and reconnect it as you had it, initially.

Did you say you saw or heard the machine working before buying? In other words, are you sure this is a new problem?

Any little blinkies on the control panel? Do not, for now, try to make it spin, or the drum move. Let's let the machine talk to us, first.

L.

I have no blinking lights,just solid lights, but I also have not been able to put it on and let it run. When it starts to hum loudly during the water filling stage, I shut it off. I wish I could better describe the noise.When I tested the spin cycle, no blinking lights, no drum movement, just the sound of the drain pump draining then it starts to screach and I shut it off.Now to answer the Did I see it work? They plugged it in, I saw the lights come on, heard the water and shut it off.I could not stay thru a whole cycle and they said it worked fine. I learned a lesson, next time, spend the time and run the whole cycle, however I only paid $200. for the set. I emailed the seller today and she is still saying it worked great for her! I still believe her.

OK, then it's not indicating a typical fault, and I actually think that may be good news because the lights would indicate a detected fault of the "normal" kind. Your problem lies outside wear and tear and misuse, I think.

I believe it would have been a waste of everybody's time if the seller had knowingly allowed you to run the machine when she knew that shortly it would obviously fail to work (before you paid her), so I agree she probably believed it was in good condition.

The things that bind up a drum (and I tend to think it is bound up, somehow because of the noise it's making) wouldn't include a dead, or disconnected power suppluy/ motor. That wouldn't make noise or give resistance when manually turned, which is what happens, right? I think something has been jarred loose by the vibration during moving and is now jammed up against the drum causing it to bind. For that reason, I wouldn't advise trying to run it or turning it on so it tries, in vain, to run as that may damage the moter.

If this were my machine, I would want to have enough of the guts exposed to make sure (visually and with my finger tips or a mirror in places I couldn't see) that nothing was holding the drum. With it all visible (and obviously unplugged) a little gentle attempt by hand to rotate the drum may quickly lead you to the problem. I think you may see, or even feel where the pinch point is.

One possibility comes to mind is that the internal rod that connects to the shipping struts was never correctly removed. Perhaps it fell down into the machine and has, until the move been resting somewhere out of the way. But the jostling it got allowed it wedge itself in an awkward place. It is naturally intended to hold the drum firmly during shipping so I think it could bind the whole machine up.

There are two holes (perhaps covered by little plastic caps near the bottom right and left of the rear of the machine) where the shipping strut connects to the internal (meant to be removed rods). I would try to peer in the holes and see what you can see. I believe the bottom is open, so if tipped v-e-r-y c-a-r-e-f-u-l-l-y over a bit on a side you may be able to see under it enough to examine the underside for stuff that shouldn't be against the drum.

The next thing to do is to take off the top, which allows you to see deep into the machine from the top and probe for things that are caught on the drum.
Here's what the serv. manual says on how to do it:
1. Refer to diagram 5-2 (which won't copy to this thread)but isn't needed anyway as the directions below are clear)
2. Remove screws "A" from the edge of the lid. these are on either side of the top on the sides of the lid near the front of the machine)

3. Pull the Lid forward. Lift up the front of the Lid and slide it to the rear of the appliance.

4. Lift the Lid from the appliance.

It's not hard to do. Just don't shove at the paint with screwdriver tips; easy does it - use a plastic blade if you have to push or pry a bit.

Let us know if you see something holding the drum.

The next step is to remove the front face ro expose the drum and innards from the side. That's a bit more involved, but still doable. I have a 1986 with its face open right now.

I'm going out to dinner but will check back later tonight.

L.

L., Wow, thanks for the detailed instructions. I will have to wait to attempt the investigation. The dryer is stacked on top of the washer and this old lady cannot lift it off by herself.As soon as I can get some help, I'll check it out. Gosh, they are heavy! Hope somebody strong comes over to visit!To answer your drum question, the drum cannot be manually turned by hand at any time, the drum will not budge and I have not tried to force it and it does not go when the machine is on or off. However, during the water fill stage, when it starts to hum, it looks like the water vibrates ever so slightly like the drum really is trying to go, but it hard to see thru the glass and water so I did not mention that before cause it is difficult to verify exactly what I was seeing if anything.Thank you again for the help.

Do you have someone who can probe around with a multimeter (a circuit testing tool) once you get the machines uncoupled? (I think this won't be necessary because I'm plumping for a mechanical, not electrical, issue, but you never know.)

FWIW, I explained all you had reported to my DH who can fix anything (if I can get him to focus on it!) and he agrees with my thought that something has become dislodged in the transport and is now binding on the drum. As long as you don't try to make the machine run in the meantime, I believe that the solution will be easy to find and fix, and your machine will be none the worse for the experience.

If you know when your machine-lifting guests may arrive, please post and I will try to be available to offer suggestions for cracking the machine and (hopefully) locating the errant whatever. You will need metric tools for this machine. Anybody with a foreign car probably has some of them. If you need to know which ones I can go down and examine my machines and see exactly what it will take to open them up.

Hoping you get help soon as it must be very frustrating to be so close to Miele-heaven and still not there, yet.

Is there room to have your machines placed (temporarily) side by side so you can just get help to lift off the dryer and then do the fix (be optimistic!) yourself and then run the machine to verify all is well before restacking? Perhaps you could just line dry for a few days, while you put the washer through its test-paces.

Once the washer's top is exposed (and even if you open up the face - which BTW you could do w/o separating the machines, but to really see inside it you would have to get pretty involved beyond the simple face-opening stage) you won't need heavy-duty strength to take the top off or even go further. With the right hand tools, you can easily do it yourself. I am, er, a lady well beyond "a certain age" and it's no trouble for me.

I'll try to keep an eye on this forum. (I am more often hanging out on the Kitchen Forum so a post there might attract my eye more quickly.)

Good luck - I'm hoping your visitors come soon!

L.

No luck getting the washer/dryer separated today. This probably will not happen til the end of next week. I will let you know when it happens. Sorry to stop the ongoing investigation, but I am leaving the mountains tomorrow and will not return til Thursday or Friday.When I get back, I can hire a couple strong guys to move the dryer into my living room since the laundry area is too small to put them side by side. Waiting to get this done is normal around here. It took 1 year to find this set for sale, then 4 months to get an electrician to come wire it."Rome was not built in a day", right? I hope I can find you when I get back and am ready to continue.And if I don't hear from you, I'll look on the Kitchen Forum. Thank you!

And I'll watch out for you to post again, too. (Friday the 23rd, I will be away from my computer.)

As I was thinking about this, I had a Duh! moment. If there's something wedged against the drum keeping it from turning we won't be able to see it from above because the drum part that moves is entirely encased in the outer drum! Otherwise the water would be all over your floor.

I can't think why I didn't realize this at first. There's a some chance that something is wedged around part of the connection at the point where the motor shaft is attached to the drum.

Much, much, more likely, it seems to me now, is that something fell out of the clothes and is now stuck between the inner (perforated) drum and the outer water-containing one. Stuff falls out of pockets all the time in my laundry: coins, ballpoint pens (or worse: Sharpies!), hair clips, screwdrivers, nails, pocketknives, penlights, etc. Most either stay in the drum (wreaking havoc on the fabrics) or slip into the pintrap and are retrieved there.

If something is caught between the inner and outer drum then retrieval is going to happen by going in from the front, not the top. No lifting involved. But you would have to take off the boot - and probably re-set the water level thingy. (Instructions for resetting are in manual I bought yesterday.)

Sometimes old boots can't be re-installed (or so I have been warned by Miele) because of material memory so a new one may be needed. I have my old one off (bought a really stinky machine, it has been airing for 6 mos.) and I plan to try to reinstall it, though I have new one at the ready.

If you have a chance take a good flashlight and stick your head in the drum and see if you can see anything. There are lots of places that human anatomy and geometry will prevent you from seeing. (I just tried to do this, with little succcess on my 1918, so it may be fruitless.)

While you're away this week I will think about how this can be worked on. Hold off hiring the strong arms, just for the moment.

A loose object between the drums is so much more likely than a stray large object caught somewhere within the case.

Or it could be more complicated than I can picture.

I just returned from my laundry room where I poked and prodded my own machines. My drums roll smoothly with about as much energy need as you might expend stirring something like potato salad. It doesn't keep turning for more than about 20 degrees after you take your hand away.

If you're not up for disassembling the front yourself, can you think of some mechanically savvy local person who could try it, given good instructions. Opening up the machine (and the reassembly) don't really require Miele tech-level skills just commonsense. I don't think any of it is physically hard, (especially compared to lifting the dryer off) - getting the boot back on may be kind of a three-handed thing, however.

L.

L., I have been thinking and reading about my non-spinning drum. Also, I took the advice of Fahrenheit 451 and downloaded the service manual. I am now worried that my machine might have been possibly damaged during the move even though it remained level and not taken down any stairs. Are my symptoms something that indicate the drum is unbalanced/damaged and if so, is that repairable? I'm still away from my machine but should return tomorrow. Just could not wait to ask you what your thoughts are?

Were you with machine during the entire transport?

One thing that might have happened is a bad bounce/jounce that somehow stressed the connection between the motor shaft and the drum causing it to bend or deform, resulting in the binding/squealing you have now. If this happened (and I think it would take a really major jolt to do this), it would be a pretty complex problem to fix, I think. (Not something I'd tackle.) If the machines were transported in the back of a pick-up or on a trailer, then this may have happened. (More so if they were on a trailer, it seems to me.) If they were transported in a truck or van or SUV, and you were with them, then I think it quite unlikely you wouldn't have perceived such a serious bump.

But I'm thinking more optimistically, for the moment, and the investigation of the direst issues is exactly what we'd have to do to investigate, and hopefully solve, a more simple - and likely - problem such as a foreign object getting jammed between the two drums during the move. So there's nothing to be lost by being bold and literally looking into the problem.

I am glad you have d/l-ed the service manual because it means we are looking at the same info if we tackle this. I have opened up the face of my second-hand 1986 (slightly different interior config, but the opening-up part looks the same as for the 1903). I will make a list of the tools I used and I'm certainly up for tackling it with you, if you want to try that. If doesn't require moving the dryer off to gain access from the front. I can temporarily reassemble the front of the 1986 and walk through the opening-up procedure with you. I have an intact 1918 as a "reference" is case we run amuck and can't figire out how to get back to the original state. (Not a big risk as Mieles are an extremely well-rationalized design.)

Shall we?

Don't stress over the big-bounce issue, it would be trouble if true, but my money is on the sturdy durableness that's built in to every Miele. If you opened the top you would see not only very heavy springs but also shock absorbers ringing the inside and attached between the drum and case. These are there to mange the incredibly high G-forces created by highspeed spins (potentially with off balanced loads) generated by a "normal" wash. There's a heavy cast-iron spider bracket attached to the back of the drum. It is built like a tank inside.

L.

Yes, I was with the washer and dryer during the move.I was also aware that it should be gently moved, kept level and not bumped.(the guys doing the moving thought I was a royal pain about it) It was transported in the back of my SUV in the upright position.Then it was gently unloaded, no dolly, no stairs. But if I had it to do again, I would have found some struts. But I did not have time on my side and the seller needed them moved that day. I wish I was as positive about this as you are, however I am willing to tackle it when I get back.

I have another question. I read on page 17 about soap detergent, it states that only powder should be used, it is obvious that the previous owner used liquid.And if liquid is to be used, I need to order something from Miele. I also asked Miele customer service about soap and was told I could use either powder or liquid and she thought I should consider liquid. So, I ordered 2 bottles of Persil liquid online. Do you use powder only in your 1918?

I'm glad to hear your report of the machine's trip, it really eases my mind. It sounds as if you did everything possible and I am downgrading the trip as a possible cause of the problem. (I was a little worried before that someone else had moved the machine and had allowed it to flop around on the back of a pickup in a way that you were not aware of.)

Your second question will reveal me to be a detergent heretic: I use (and have for decades) ordinary non-HE, powdered Cheer in my fancy schmancy Euro f/ls. I have tried most detergents available in the US. (And even some other countries as my DH used to travel out of the US on business all the time. He's brought me more boxes of white powder, from more countries, than a drug cartel's prize mule.)

The detergent question is one you will have to work out and Persil (either liquid or powdered) is a fine, if a bit expensive, place to start. The fact that the previous owners used something else just makes it possible you will have to do (once we get the drum fixed) a thorough interior cleaning. Too much of the wrong kind of product can lead to a build-up in interior biofilm from less-than-perfectly- rinsed-out soap products. Since a deep cleaning is best done with a fully opened-up machine, so we're killing two birds with the same stone. We'll probably get to some gunk that will have you wondering if the machine is worth it. But it is, and the gunk is removable from plastic and metal and rubber, so have no fear. Someone else's gunk is always aesthetically more challenging than your own homegrown variety, so expect a bit of the squick factor (have dishwashing gloves on hand.)

Your eventual choice of detergent will be most significantly influenced by the chemistry of your water. And you will have many chances to zero in on what works best. Persil will be a good jumping off point.

I also want to premptively innoculate you against one of the detergent urban myths that someone may pass on when they hear about your travails: It is sometimes said that the wrong (i.e. specifically a non-HE type) detergent can lead to bearing seal failure around the motor shaft bearings as a result of chemical interactions and seal erosion. This could lead to a failure of the motor to turn the drum, and likely some distressing grinding noises, and possibly, drum stuck-ness. But I don't think it would lead to a condition where you couldn't manually turn the drum. I'm not saying it has never happened, but I think it very unlikely to be your problem. If this is a bearing seal failure, I think it would have been coming on (and making itself known audibly) for some time and not revealing itself as the sudden change from working to not that you are reporting. And I think, again, that the seller would never have allowed you to run the machine if they were concealing suspicion or knowledge of bearing problems since you would have likely walked away with your cash still in your pocket. It would have been a waste of time all around. Detergent choice is an important issue, but doesn't seem likely to be the culprit in this case.

One other quick question: did you clean out the pin trap at any point in this saga? (Open up the bottom drain accessed through the hatch on the lower left front of the machine, drain the water inside and inspect the plastic impeller at the back?) I was wondering if there is something stuck back there that is rubbing against the drum somehow. I have gotten surprisingly large objects out of the pin trap, plus a fair chunk of change (cash back!) over the years. Finding something stuck back there would almost be anticlimatic at this point, but a check should be done, first, before you go farther. It's easy, if a bit messy, to do.

L.

I did clean out the pin trap. I drained the water then continued to remove the trap. I would say it only had a little sand like sediment in it, I also made sure the little plastic impeller in the back was moving freely. During that ordeal was when I noticed a liquid detergent drip inside that little door of the access panel. I thought that was an odd place for a detergent drip. But it appears , too much was used in the drawer and it dribbled down the front.

I'm glad to hear your report of the machine's trip, it really eases my mind. It sounds as if you did everything possible and I am downgrading the trip as a possible cause of the problem. (I was a little worried before that someone else had moved the machine and had allowed it to flop around on the back of a pickup when you couldn't protect it.)

Your second question will reveal me to be practically a detergent anarchist: I use, and have for decades, ordinary non-HE, powdered Cheer that I buy a Target. I have tried nearly every detergent available in the US. (And even some other countries as my DH used to trvael out of the US on business all the time. He's brought me more boxes of white powder, from more countries, than a drug cartel's prize mule.)

The detergent question is one you will have to work out and (either liquid or powdered) Persil is a fine, if a bit expensive, place to start. The fact that the previous owners used something else just makes it possible you will have to (once we get the drum fixed) do a thorough interior cleaning as too much of the wrong kind of product can lead to a build-up in interior biofilm from less-than-perfectly- rinsed-out soap products. (And a deep cleaning is best done with a fully opened-up machine, so we're killing two birds with the same stone.) We'll probably get to some gunk that will have you wondering if the machine is worth it. But it is, and the gunk is always removable from plastic and metal and rubber, so have no fear. Someone else's gunk is always aesthetically more challenging than your own homegrown variety, so expect a bit of the squick factor (have dishwashing gloves on hand.)

Eventually your choice of detergent will be most significantly influenced by the chemistry of your water. And you will have many chances to zero in on what works best. Persil will be a good starting point.

I also want to premptively innoculate you against one of the detergent urban myths that someone may pass on when they hear about your travails: It is sometimes said that the wrong (i.e. specifically a non-HE type) detergent can lead to bearing seal failure around the motor shaft bearings as a result of chemical interactions and seal erosion. This would lead to a failure of the motor to turn the drum, and likely some distressing grinding noises and, possibly, drum stuck-ness. I'm not saying it has never happened, but I think it very unlikely to be your problem. If this is a bearing failure, I think it would have been coming on (and making itself known audibly) for some time and not revealing itself as the sudden change from working to not that you are reporting. And I think, again, that the seller would never have allowed you to run the machine if they were concealing suspicion or knowledge of a bearing problems since you would have instantly walked away with your cash still in your pocket. It would have been a waste of time all around. Detergent choice is an important issue, but doesn't seem likely to be the culprit in this case.

One other quick question: did you clean out the pin trap at any point in this saga? (Open up the bottom drain accessed through the lower right hatch on the front of the machine, drain the water inside and inspect the plastic impeller at the back?) I was wondering if there is something stuck back there that is rubbing against the drum somehow. I have gotten surprisingly large objects out of the pin trap, plus a fair chunk of change (cash back!) over the years. Finding something stuck back there would almost be anticlimatic, but it should be done first before you go farther. It's easy to do.

L.

I did clean out the pin trap. I drained the water then continued to remove the trap. I would say it only had a little sand like sediment in it, I also made sure the little plastic impeller in the back was moving freely. During that ordeal was when I noticed a liquid detergent drip inside that little door of the access panel. I thought that was an odd place for a detergent drip. But it appears , too much was used in the drawer and it dribbled down the front.

I thought of something, after the move I found a clip like looking piece, I thought it was maybe from the stacking kit. Is it possible to post a picture so I could show you? And I'm back with my machine and getting ready to take apart. It is a little overwhelming but I'm willing to try.I don't like the part where the boot needs to come off and put back on.

This afternoon I opened up the front panel but did not go as far as taking off the rubber boot. I looked around with a flashlight, minding you I have no idea what I'm looking for. But upon close inspection I noticed a very, slight dusting of a blackish fine dust(not much). Is this carbon from the brushes, if so, now what? Just for the heck of it, I found a Miele authorized
repair tech will to come take a look for $150. Am I at the point to have them come?

Liriodendron,
Are you available to give me more instructions? As of this morning,I can also get into the top panel, had some muscle move the stacking dryer off. I'm ready to investigate with your help.