LMFAO @jdenyer232, Comment. Before you know it, people will be buying 2nd and 3rd washers because their sets only allow two loads of laundry per week ;)

Thank you Mike. I love your idea and I'm definitely going to try it. I absolutely HATE my new washer, half the time they come out with a film on them because there is not enough water to properly clean them. Any suggestion on how to increase the rinse water or is it based on the amount of water used in the wash cycle?

Diana, are you talking about adding weights to the washer? Or using a hose? Both I wouldn't think would be a good idea.

First always add the extra rinse option. After the machine stops adding water dump pitchers of water through the detergent dispenser. I like gallon plastic water storage bottles from a water store. Add enough to fully cover the load or more. The clothes will get clean, smell great and no bacteria left in sweaty workout clothes! For the last two years I have been doing this, the "clean washer" light has never come on again. Even the machine is clean! No gross washer smell or having to leave the door open.

Shanandee. Which washer do you have? How many gallons do you add? Seems like a lot of work and is one of the reasons I got a FL so I wouldn't have to carry boiling water lol.

Water level is easy, EASY to adjust! Remove 3 screws on top panel, top of machine. Don't mess with anything there. Pull back the black curtain and look to the right. You'll see a clear tube going to a pressure switch. The switch can be removed by the 1 screw on top. There are three adjustment screws. The bottom one adjusts the big load level, the left adjusts the small load. Turn the screw clockwise to add more water. I didn't unplug it, rather just stuck a screwdriver in the lid switch and filled it up. When it shuts off, rotate the screw until it starts to fill again, then back off a half turn. Seriously it's just that easy! What a pain this is for so many people. I hope this helps. Oh, if you smoke, please use ashtrays. I'm done here...

I hate my Kenmore top-loading HE machine. Our towels smell musty and our clothes come out of the wash with dog hair, dirt and stains on them. We've tried all types of settings and detergents. Recently, an elderly relative had an "accident" while at our house. We rinsed the clothes by hand and then washed them in the washing machine on heavy soil and added an extra rinse -- but afterward the pants and underpants had poop on them. Not stains ... pieces of poop (sorry to be so graphic). I don't know why I was so shocked -- as I said, we've had clothes come out with mud and dog hair still on them. I'm really starting to worry that this machine is unsanitary, and I can't imagine what it would have been like if we had this when our kids were babies. My husband think it's the lack of an agitator that's the problem, but I think it's not enough water. I'm saving up to buy something else, but I don't know what -- I'm thinking a Speed Queen, or maybe a front loader. Incidentally, I got the above-mentioned clothes clean and stain free by scrubbing them in a laundry sink full of water. So maybe I should just buy a washboard! Lately we've been adding a bucket of water to make the clothes heavier, but I don't think it's helped much. My husband swears a rock in a river would get clothes cleaner than the HE machine. I'm all for conserving water any way I can, but if I'm adding extra rinses, pre-rinsing clothes, adding buckets of water, I don't think I'm saving much.

Nancy, what is the model number of your machine?

Hello Nancy. Mine did too. I absolutely despise this washer. What I do to avoid those issues, is keep small loads, like 5 towels small, use deep was cycle, heavy load option, and extra rinse. A typical load takes about 2 hours, but no musty odor, no dog hair, and stains most of the time, come out. Occasionally, I run it again for super dirty stuff. I will be replacing this machine as soon as a sale comes up.

@Nancy I hear (read) this quite often.

My personal opinion, it's virtually impossible to get grubby, muddy, heavily soiled clothing clean in most HE top loaders. Like you said, there's not enough water to suspend the soils and lack of decent agitation. There is MINIMAL turnover.

There are some HE top loaders that use more water but with dumbed down temperatures, but at least they do a better job cleaning.

A regular old fashioned top loader like a Speed Queen would be no doubt better than your Kenmore HE top loader.

A front loader (personal opinion) would definitely clean better than ANY top load HE washer.

If you decide to to get a front loader, I would highly recommend getting one with a true Pre-Wash (for times when you have heavy soils). Some type of true Sanitize cycle (that heats the water to around 150 degrees Fahrenheit) and maybe an Allergen cycle that heats up to 130F (for some reason this cycle is getting harder to find on different manufacture models).

Good luck on what you decide to do next with your current machine.

Nancy, what detergent are you currently using and how much do you use per load?

Like my previous suggestion, it's an easy fix. You simply need water to wash clothes. Regardless of model, find the clear hose going to the pressure valve, and tighten the screws. I've explained it before. Or, just wear the same clothes for a week, less laundry. Problem solved...

But beware: My small company gets 10-20 calls each week to clean up water damages caused by front load washers. If you have a choice, a decent top load is the smart way to go...especially if you use anyone other than USAA for your insurance carrier.

Some pressure switches nowadays are not adjustable.

I've heard that, however, when I looked at one I was told couldn't be adjusted, I figured out how to do it. Follow the clear hose, not the switch itself on the front panel, rather the clear hose going to a switch located elsewhere in the machine. There has to be a way for it to sense pressure, or fill level. Name a style and model number, and I'll research it for you.

Ashley Shea, I'd appreciate details, and I'm sure I'm not alone. Are they catastrophic floods or drip damage to floors? Are any washer brands over-represented? Do you get to see exactly what malfunction caused the leak?

Hello. 9 times out of 10, it's the seal on the door. The brands vary. It's never "catastrophic", but the damage and cost to fix it can be as low as $1,000 or as high as $30,000. They put out a lot of water. It depends on time and amount of saturation. Did they wait to call? Because so many people think it'll dry on its own, they wait until they notice warping, smells or mold, which then adds thousands. And not one insurance carrier covers mold, so then they pay out of pocket. What kind of flooring is installed, wood? Laminate?, were the walls affected, did mold form? etc. So many variables, but the common denominator is always a front load washer.

These washer stories are beginning to scare me. My old TL w/agitator runs perfectly and does a great load of wash. Trouble free. But it can't last forever. :-( What on earth would I replace it with? I used to be a little embarrassed to tell folks I still had my old workhorse as they had the "latest and greatest". I just happen to be a very practical person. I am a "If it ain't broke, don't fix it" kind of gal. Not sure I would trust a salesman! I am watching all you nice folks advice though! LOL.

Elizabeth A, I wish I still had my old butterscotch yellow washer! My in-laws bought the he set as a gift. I was excited until that 1st load. Why they thought a "water efficient" washer was the way to go when we have well water, is beyond me. Lesson learned?....i guess?

Ashley, some of us prefer a front loader anyway. Your experience is a valuable reminder to keep an eye on the door seal, and to take it seriously if there are any signs of leakage on the front. It's also a good idea to put the machine on a drip pan, preferably with a plumbed drain. Any washer can leak from internal components and leave water underneath where it isn't visible.

The model number of my Kenmore is 110-26002012, I've tried All, Arm & Hammer, off brand detergents like Tansil (Aldi's brand) and Tide, including detergents with stainlifters. I think Tide helped somewhat, and it's what we're using now. I've tried varying the amount of detergents, too. And Elizabeth -- I would hang on to your old washer. I'm really sorry I didn't try to get my old repaired ... it was 20 years old and I just figured a new one would be better ...

Nancy, Tide is a great top of the line detergent. What cycle and temp do you normally use? Any detergent works better and faster at higher temps.

On he washers, the normal cycle uses the least amount and the lowest temperature of water. Use the heavy duty cycle and load the washer around the sides of the drum (pretend there is an agitator post in the middle). Don't just toss the laundry in as a big pile willy nilly.

If you still have the manual, I suggest reading it carefully. You can also find a copy of the manual online if you don't have it anymore: https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1207146/Kenmore-110-26002012.html?page=5#manual

Here's a great video to help. There's a small screw that CAN BE ADJUSTED on the face of the switch. https://youtu.be/ZuPkeKU7DBA it's listed as "Clothes washer water level/height adjustment-top loader" and it's 8:16 long. Watch the video, and you'll see just how EASY it is to fix. Here's the link

Oh Lookie, here's another video. Simple fix this should answer any remaining questions about water level issues. Now, go play in the mud and don't worry about laundry any more!

OK. I want to raise the level on this machine. I followed the pressure tube up from the tub to the control board. Where do I find the adjustment screw? IWL12 is the model.

Dadoes, is that a rhetorical question? Are you trolling me? It seems you've answered a lot of questions for people. I've seen your YouTube videos. Are you DADoESofTX? On that machine, I think you might know way WAY more than you're letting on. My apologies, if I'm wrong. If there is a way, to adjust the water level, I'd like to know. Watching some "DADoESofTX" videos, it looks like he (possibly you) is/are very familiar with the workings of this machine. Now, if that is the case, please let us know how to reset the water level. Otherwise, here's a link you might enjoy, watch the whole thing. Handyman He uses some very familiar tools, enjoy...

This is an example of one that is not adjustable. The pressure switch is an electronic/digital sensor part/parcel of the control board.

Be aware that some frontloaders ... some Whirlpool models, for example ... incorporate a separate flow meter into the inlet water path. The control board monitors the flow rate in conjunction with the pressure switch and may increase the fill per digital calculations to a higher volume beyond the pressure switch trigger-point on some cycles and cycle phases (such the final rinse). Raising the pressure switch will skew the flow meter calculations and can result in unexpectedly higher levels on the affected cycles.

Ok, seriously. The link I'm providing now, IWL12 states, on page 2, under optional settings, left side of page near the bottom, that water level can be adjusted electronically. Is this true? Is this simply a non/mis-read manual issue? I don't have this machine, but my curiosity is peaking and I love to help, where I can. Cheers...

I appreciate the suggestions, but I don't know how to read a schematic and I certainly don't know how to work on live circuits, nor should I have to know those things just to do a load of laundry!

It's a sensitivity adjustment for the automatic water level function. The fill heights of the five levels do not change.

I have a Maytag model MVWB835DW2 can you please confirm exactly how to adjust the sensor for this model. Thank you.

Nancy, my elderly mother has dementia and I am familiar with cleaning adult poop. The most effective thing, which has been mentioned already but not emphasized, is the highest-temp water possible. Cold water, or even warm water won't clean it, and may even lock it in. Actually, you could have the best washing machine in the universe, but if it doesn't heat the water to high temps, it still won't be very effective against adult poop. Unfortunately high-heat washers have been victimized by Energy Star hysteria, so that it is difficult to find one. Electrolux and Miele are the two brands I know of that offer water heated to high temps. They are expensive.

I also find liquid detergents like Tide Liquid work better than powdered versions, that's been my experience anyway.

One small thing you can do is before you turn on the washer, open the hot water tap of the nearest sink. That way you can avoid a blast of cold water hitting your clothes at the beginning that they may not be able to overcome for the rest of the wash.

I’m a bit late to this party but I’ve been looking for solutions - not for me but for my sister who didn’t listen to me and bought one of these

Cotton and cotton blend fabrics (amongst others) release linters. Linters are fine, silky fibers that often end up in the dryer on the screen. However, these linters also come out of fabrics in the wash. In the wash, your machine must have enough water to disperse these linters. If there is enough water, these small fibers simply go down the drain in the spin cycle. The issue is, most of the current generation of high efficiency washers do not use enough water on most of their settings. So the linters escape from the fabrics then get redeposited back onto the fabric because there’s too little water. And dryers do not remove most of these low water redeposited linters. Over time, the effect of these small fibers now being washed away can be noticeable. Some are able to see a difference after as little as one or two washings. Some may never notice.

that is part of why some sheets feel scratchy

also, for still undiscerned reasons, many times the laundry detergent isn’t fully rinsed out; as above, some will notice, many will not

my goal with a clothes washing machine is, surprise!, washing my clothes

I can tell the difference in one wash with these newer machines and my sister has learned she can too (I tried to warn her ...)

so im looking for a simple to implement solution to make this a viable machine for my sister

Tell her to add gallons of water through the detergent dispenser drawer after the machine has stopped adding water I usually add from 4 to 6+ gallons (make sure to fill them ahead) using the one-gallon jugs purchased from a water store. It makes a huge difference, no funky bacteria smell in dish towels and gym clothes, no gummy residue on clothes or washer, the clean washer indicator has not come on since I have been adding water. I love the smell and feel of having clean laundry again.

Hi All,

I am late to this game as well and read a few of the postings but did not find a complete solution-- maybe the complete solution was in there amongst many of the previous postings. In that case, my posting will provide, hopefully, a complete summary.

I have the LG top-loader washer, Model WT1201C/WT1101C, and have had it since about May 2014. The problem for me is that under most modes (Cotton/Normal, Heavy Duty, Bright Whites, Bulky/Bedding) the water level is too low-- my definition of too low is where "most" of the clothes stick-up above the water level and are not even wet in many cases. I wanted the water level to cover or at least wet all of my clothes during a wash and wanted to find a non-invasive way to do this.

This problem started right from the get-go. I read that low water levels were normal for HE washers but also read that there was an issue with low water levels. I was hoping that LG would re-program the EEPROM or something tha would better adjust the water level in that washer. Nope. So, after the first few washes I really felt like my clothes were not getting that clean and wanted to find a way to add water, I tried most of what others tried: 1) adding water after the fill step-- I ended up adding up to 5 gallons of water in some cases-- that only helped the initial wash but not the rinses, which would revert back to using the initial water level; 2) starting in Bulky/Bedding mode and Pausing when the water level was sufficient, then resetting the mode to Normal or Heavy Duty for washing-- again, this did not use the correct amount of water during the rinses; 3) pre-wetting some clothes-- this was a hit-miss experience-- in some cases, the water seemed to use an acceptable amount of water for both washing and rinsing, in other case, not; 4) I placed a bucket of water in the middle of the washer as extra weight then removed it when the tub started to fill-- you can imagine what happened to the bucket during the Load Sensing step; 5) my last and I think best/easiest solution is this: get some zip-lock bags, four to six of them, fill one half-way with water then place it in a second bag and zip it shut to include some air; make two or three of these double-bagged water weights-- see where this is going? Place them evenly inside the bottom of the tub, doesn't matter whether they are on the bottom or top of clothing as long as they are evenly distributed inside the tub, All we are doing is adding weight to the tub to fool it into thinking that it is heavier than it really is. Use good quality bags that won't rip during the initial washing steps. If all works correctly then these baggies should float to the top of the load during the normal wash and can be easily removed during a pause in the agitator-action. I think balloons will work also but may burst if they are not strong enough. I don't think it really matters if you include air with the water in the balloon-- if you want them to float up later then just add some air to the balloon with the water-- make sure not to wet yourself in the process. If the balloon breaks then it should be easy enough to remove the broken rubber pieces when you transfer the clothing to a drier-- just make sure to retrieve all the rubber pieces so they don't melt onto your clothes in the drier. In retrospect, you can make many different items that will add weight to the tub-- a small bag of plastic beads or ball bearings, magnets that will stick to the inside of the tub (my tub is stainless steel but we all know that even those fridges that claim to be stainless steel still hold magnets), or anything else that will not break, burst, or otherwise ruin the inside of the tub or your clothes. That's it-- maybe too much-- hope to hear any good or bad experiences from this post.

i agree for most loads water level is enough and efficient. However some loads - dog beds, diapers, sports clothes, dirty work clothes, really bad sock stains, soiled sheets I like more water. You can read the mechanical hacks but an easy way is to keep a bucket near the machine. BEFORE turning machine on, put clothes in and pour buckets of water over the load until items are covered in water. THEN turn machine on. You have fooled the machine into a very heavy load and it will add even more water. I am not against efficiency, but sometimes very stinky and soiled loads need more water. Better to add a couple of buckets manually than to run the machine 2 or 3 times in attempt to rinse out the stink and greasy and severe dirt. HE machines are fine for sedentary people who don't get dirty or wear socks and sneakers all day. Geez! the early version of efficient machines had a water level control you could hold on to force more water. So, the washing machine has gone the way of the toilet, with government controls, ... the toilet now needs to be flushed 2 or 3 times for some loads.

I recently gave up and bought a Maytag for $549 that has a deep fill option in addition to the sensing one. I am pleased to report that it fills all the way up to the top! The clothes are actually in water! Did I mention it has an agitator? It's like an "old-fashioned" machine. We put our stained items in and we were shocked at how clean they came out. We had a basket of "dog" towels used to wipe paws that were stained with large mud-colored spots despite repeated washings. They came out so clean we couldn't tell which were the "dog" towels and which were the people towels. Shirts with stains are now clean. It's scary now to think how dirty our clothes have been!

Nancy, what is the model number?

MVWC565FW ... I got it at Best Buy for $549. https://www.bestbuy.com/site/maytag-4-2-cu-ft-11-cycle-high-efficiency-top-loading-washer-white/5329711.p?skuId=5329711&cmp=RMX&extStoreId=263&ref=212&loc=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI_oWlq7-w2wIVm0sNCh3V5wWnEAQYASABEgJenvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

Would be nice to have a full-soak option for bleaching or dying clothes in the washer (something I used to do occasionally). I sometimes manually add water - your split hose solution is a good work-around. Hope appliance company product developers read these posts.

For towels, ! usually add an additional gallon of water through the detergent drawer after the machine has determined it is filled. I also do this a couple times during the rinse cycles, of which I do five.

Here’s my washer if someone wants to chime in and help me bypass the water level thanks in advance profit4kure Please

Im sick of trying to deal with this POS! I called appliance store and told them to get this junk out of my house. Im buying an old Maytag!

There's more than one design for "old" Maytag washers. Real Maytags have two belts. "Fakes" have one belt (aka Norgetags and Amanatags). There are also the Whirlpool-produced old-style direct-drive Maytag units that don't have a belt, produced between approx 2006 to 2010.

I have a top load washer with a Water Station (where you can hand wash things over the washer). I keep a med size mixing (with handle) in the laundry basket. If I need extra water, which I often do, I put a couple of bowls of water in before starting the machine. My washer also advertises, "use all the water you want". I've made it work for me. I'm happy :)

Hi,I have an HE front loader and I’ll tell you guys this is sooooo frustrating to wash clothes,the clothes get barely wet through the washing time period and next thing I know it’s rinsing time,I have to connect an extra water hose just to feed it more water

I have found that my machine puts the most water in when I choose the bedding cycle. It won't spin quick enough, but I can always add a second spin only cycle.

Where is pressure switch screw on Maytag MVWC565FW washer?

Just bought it and HATE it. Not returnable. No matter which setting, I get only 6 inches of water. Dirty clothes come out dry and not washed. Can't wash off animal hair. Clothes come out full of lint.

I watched many videos, downloaded the manual, and opened the control panel.

Where is the pressure switch screw that's adjustable? Is this an electronic switch that's NOT adjustable?

If not adjustable, I'll dump it and buy a new washer and call it an expensive $2k lesson since I'll have to replace the dryer also to have a matching set. Argh!

Thanks.

There is no adjustment for your Maytag, or on many other machines nowadays. The water level pressure sensor is an electronic component integral to the control board.

The Deep Water option doesn't provide enough water to your liking? It may fill progressively higher as the wash period goes along, not to a high level immediately at the beginning.

There's no requirement for a washer and dryer to be an aesthetic match. My family had mismatched sets from 1962 to 1994, and again from 2012 to 2018.

Look for a lower-end model Amana NTW4516FW, it has an old-style agitator and has been touted for a deep water option that does fill a lot. GE also has some models.

@maxima9

It is most likely an air pressure switch. That is what the clear tube going into the back of the control panel senses. As the water in the drum fills it creates air pressure in the tube. The other end of the tube goes into the drum and is usually connected to the center agitator which has holes in it. As the water fills the drum the water will fill the clear tube and increase the air pressure. This pressure change is then read by the computer in the control panel. Once the correct pressure is reached for a small, medium or large load then water inlet valve is turned off.

It is most likely all computer controlled and not defeatable. I suppose you could cut the tube and insert an tee. Then attach a tube to the bottom of the tee and route it outside your washer somewhere convenient. Then put a gas tight valve on the end of the tube. When you want more water in the drum open the valve to allow air to enter the clear tube and keep the pressure inside the tube low. Once the water level is close to your liking, close the valve and the pressure will then build inside the tube and eventually reach the proper pressure to turn off the water.

That procedure above would all be premised on their being no timer on the water fill valve. Many computer controlled valves don't rely JUST on the pressure switch, but rather amount of time the valve has been open as well. This is to prevent a flood. The fill valve has a max GPM rating that can't really be exceeded by increasing pressure. The manufacturer knows what this rating is and programs the computer to close the fill valve before the tub would theoretically overflow. This is usually a safety in case the pressure switch fails.

Even if you COULD increase the water level there is no guarantee that the motor is strong enough to properly agitate. If they designed it for 6-10 gallons of water and you can fit 25-30 in it that would mean the motor has to work with 240 instead of around 80lbs, plus the weight of the clothes. You see to be an eco washer also means they can cheap out on parts as well. Smaller motor, less cost, etc.

I would not "trash" the washer. Just sell it used on any of the normal online places. Someone will take it. Then don't make the same mistake again.