Have the water flow meter checked or replaced. If the internal wheel sticks inside the meter, the CCU will think no water is entering the washer and give you this error code.

Do you notice an above normal amount of water in the washer when you notice the error code? This is a good indication the flow meter is faulty. You can obtain the part from Sears and install it yourself. Very easy fix.

Hi, yes it is when the washer is full, when the washer has completed it wash cycle and goes into the drain and rinse cycle. do you know were this meter is located Thanks Craig

Hi , Found flow meter, took it out, blew though it with mouth and wheel seem to move freely. also check inlet valve solenoids had a ohms resistance across the 2 terminals on each solenoid.was told if bad would show a direct short. any other thing I could check loose connections ect. Thanks Craig

The flow meter has a reed switch on the side of it. Sometimes this switch fails and doesn't respond to the magnetic wheel inside the flow switch. It is suppose to provide a pulse action as the wheel turns. The CCU interprets these pulses to determine flow rate. Just because the wheel inside the meter turns, does not necessarily mean the reed switch is functioning.

Exactly when do you see the hf error. At the exact moment you see the error is the washer's water level higher than normal?

Hi , The exact time is 8 minutes into the cycle ,when it is done with the wash cycle, there is a click the fh light flashes and there is a bleeping noise and it begins to drain,it drains all the water out then stops. yes the tub is full of water when fh flashes and begins draining. why would the fh not flash when tub is filling up if wheel sensor was bad. Thanks for all your time and concern it is gratly appreciated.Craig

Hello. In reading the fh error code statement, It states after 8 minutes and 10.5 gallons of water flowing though the flow meter it should receive a code from the pressure switch, this is happening exactly 8 minutes into the cycle could the pressure switch be the problem? Thanks Craig

Hello. Just keeping you guys up to date . check pressue switch ,blowing air into it hearing click, then releasing air and hearing click again. blew air opposite way into drum and it seemed clear with tub drained.read this on the internet, seems to be working find. Thanks again

Hi, well after blowing air back into drum and into pressure switch the washer is working proper again, I can't explain what cause this other than maybe it being slightly blocked at the drum or pressure switch ?Thanks for all the help and maybe this will help someone out later .Craig

Congrats on your DIY repair! There may have been an obstruction in the air line between the drum and pressure switch you dislodged by blowing through the tubing. You may have also freed a stuck or sticking contact within the pressure switch by manually applying air pressure to it. I believe you can normally hear two clicks when gently applying air pressure on the switch and then a third click with more air pressure (over-flow trip). Fortunately these parts are relatively inexpensive to purchase and you can install them in a couple of minutes of removing the top panel.

I'm assuming your washer is over the one year mark so I would also recommend running a cleaning cycle to dissolve any accumulations in the washer that may have caused this problem (where air tubing connects to the lower drum). Use Cascade Complete dishwashing detergent (I use .5 cup of powdered version) and run the machine on the Sanitary Cycle. Smaller machines than ours can use slightly lessor amounts of the detergent. After operating the washer a few minutes to completely dissolve the detergent, pause the washer, open the door and swab down the complete bellows assembly including the hidden folds and adjoining areas where the bellows attaches to the drum. Go around the entire perimeter of the bellows and adjoining drum, concentrating between the 8 & 4 o'clock positions where lint and debris collect the heaviest. Then throw a couple more rags in the machine to aid in splashing the solution and let the cycle complete. The enzymes will dissolve any bio-film or other build up that may have accumulated over time. Don't add any chlorine bleach to this cycle otherwise the bleach will destroy the enzymes. Make sure to also wear hand protection while doing this because the solution is harsh.

This cleaning cycle is more important if you use mostly cold or low temp wash temperatures and/or tend to be skimpy with detergent dosing. To be on the safe side I complete this cleaning routine about once a year. I use at least a few Sanitary Cycles per month and also use the Stain Treat cycle often. Owners that don't, should run this routine more often. After nearly five years of use, my HE3t still remains spotless and sanitary.

One last remark on the diagnosing of the pressure switch and flow meter. The pressure switch will normally trip its first set of contacts within about a minute or less of filling at the beginning of a wash phase (not rinse phase). Then the water solenoids will start increasing the water level in increments (Catalyst function). You can tell if the pressure switch is malfunctioning if there are no on and off cycles of the water solenoid valves during the initial fill phase. If the water enters in a constant manner without pauses, the pressure switch has not tripped it's first set of contacts. This pausing only occurs during pre-wash, auto-soak and wash phases. This is considered the "Catalyst" portion of the fill where concentrated detergent is gradually applyed and dissolved into the laundry for improved cleaning performance.

At this point (if no pauses are detected), the tubing connected to the pressure switch should be checked for air leaks, disconnection or obstructions. If the Catalyst function is operating fine (water pulses on and off), the culprit of an HF error is normally a malfunctioning flow meter. A good indicator is substantially higher water levels than normal, provided the flow switch has tripped its first set of contacts.

Hi, Thanks hbw258 you have helped us diagnosing are problem and help save us a 190.00 bill. just a few questions in cleanig the drum ,tube and pressure switch, I can't open the door and clean inside on our washer because it is a front loader, or add any clothes during wash because the door locks during wash.Should I still do the cascade wash?
When blowing air back into drum there seemed to be some resistance in airflow, is this normal?.
I watched the washer fill with lid off and the water inlet solenoids do cycle water on and off a few times doing fill up so the pressue switch is working properely now ,but not sure what it was doing prior to blowing air though it ...
and yes my wife uses mostly cold water and is probably tight with the detergent.Wife has been washing clothes all day( 2 teenage boys) and all seems well. Again Thanks HBW258 For taking time out of your busy schedule to help a total stranger as myself you should and probably do feel good about yourself. Craig + Sheila+ family.......

You're quite welcomed and glad you could get your machine operating again. Your HE4t can be paused after it fills and the door should unlock so you can clean the bellows as I described above. Just press the pause button once. The display should start flashing indicating you're in the pause mode. The door should then unlock within a few seconds. Then you can complete the cleaning routine as described above. It's best to use the high temp Santiary Cycle for this routine.

There will be some resistence when blowing through the pressure switch hose. This is normal.

Hello, Just me again with a update, Hbw248, While doing the cascade rinse the fh error reappeared, So I took the top + back of washer off cleaned the plastic thing the pressure switch hose connects to on bottom of drum (was a little dirty )soaked it, then blew it out.inspected the rubber hose and long and behold there was a hole in the rubber hose were it was rubbing up against another hose about 2 inches long and was paper thin,you could air coming out of it when you blew though it, it was loosing its pressure though this hole, this should be the problem. my question is can you used regular quater-inch black hose from the hardware store. Thanks Craig

You can probably use any flexible tygon type tubing that you can get to slip onto the fittings. I've seen silicone based tubing at hobbie outlets that deal with radio controlled boats and cars. Silicone would be more flexible and stretch over the fittings easier. Let me know what you end up using and good luck with your repair.

Hello, I used 7/32 i.d. black rubber vacume hose for cars from auto parts store, closes thing I could find, I think the original hose is 3/16 , it was somewhat tight, not as tight as original. but seems ok, have washed 3 loads, so far so good, the original hose was placed in a area where it could rumb against drain hose during washing,tried to locate new one by itself keeping it the same length. Thanks again hbw248 for all your help.Hope this does it..........

hello hbw248, I have the exact same problem as cat88 on my HE4t. However, I'm getting the 'FH' error code much sooner into the cycle; approximately 2 minutes. The interesting thing is that jiggling the connectors between the flow meter and CCU, the washer resumes normal function. Then, it returns the same error code for the next load. Every time that I slightly re-adjust the connectors or removing and putting back the flow meter, the error code seems to go away. I'm afraid that my problem is not the flow meter, but the connectors. In addition, I'm also suspecting the chip on the side of the flow meter not functioning correct. Is this the detector of my pulses inside the flow meter? Any help would be greatly appreciate. Thank you.

My Kenmore front loader is flashing on and off and won't allow me to start the cycle? Does anyone know what this means and how I can correct it myself?

Does anyone know what the F2 error for the Kenmore HE4t means?

We have a Kenmore HE3T. It's getting the HF error. I read thru all the helpful information posted above. I timed the occurance: 10 1/2 minutes after I push start the error happens. The water does come on and off in the beginning for a couple minutes, then runs constantly while filling. The tub has A LOT more water than usual when the error comes on. This is making me think it's the pressure switch or hose. It's done it for 5 loads of wash in a row today. When the error flashes and the machine beeps, it doesn't drain on its own. I have to push the drain/spin button. The first poster had his drain authomatically. When I do tell it to drain, the water comes out quickly. Yesterday, I ran a load with too many pairs of jeans in it, and I think I must've messed up the machine. I had to pull some out to get it to spin correctly. It makes me wonder if the pressure switch hose could've gotten messed up with a heavy load in the machine - I read above how someone's had a hole worn into it - ? I think it must be either the hose, pressure switch or water valve. Is this thing repairable without the repair manual? My husband has replaced the water inlet valve on our old top loading machine, dishwasher, fridge, so is this something a handy hubby can do? Sears gave me the same repair warranty offer of $194 for 12 months which includes parts, trip and labor. If the parts are expensive, plus if we have to buy the repair manual, the warranty might be worth it. What do you think?

The Sears repairman came ($194 warranty for one year purchased to cover this). We hadn't taken off the washer's cover until he arrived. I had to tell him all the information on this site since he had little experience with this machine. It turns out there is a huge slit in the hose that connects to the pressure valve caused by the concrete balancing thing in the back of the machine -- rubbed right thru the hose. I think washing too large of a load made it off balance and made it rub hard against the hose. It probably would've happened eventually. Now we have to wait several days to get the parts and then have repairman come back out to install. He's going to go ahead and replace a couple other parts as well. LESSSON LEARNED: DO IT YOURSELF!

I have the exact same problem. However, I am a female with no "washer repair" experience. Can anyone tell me where the pressure valve is located? I would be willing to blow into it if it helps, therefore cutting out the costly Kenmore repairman. Thanks, guys.

Hi,

I have gained a lot from reading this thread and searching this forum, but I'm not sure if I've found someone with exactly the same problem I'm having. My machine starts, fills up some on and off as described above. However within a minute or two of the cycle will display the FH code. If I hit pause, then start again, it will resume tumbling, adding and draining water then FH again within another minute or two. It is definitely not an overfilling issue.

My machine was just purchased used, and had some ice issues, (despite the seller's assurance it was properly drained) I'm thinking it is likely the flow switch is bad, but could these symptoms be related to the pressure switch instead. I've already replaced the inlet valve, and it seemed to allow plenty of hot and cold water in; at least until the FH code appears.

Any guesses as to how to troubleshoot this further? Or should I just replace the flow switch.

I had the same problem. As soon as Rinse cycle started one valve would not open (or so it seemed)and the washer would stop. After switching the wiring connectors on the valves and seeing that the problem went away because the other valve did open, I thought it was a bad valve. I put the wiring connectors back to original and then switched the hoses coming in from cold to hot and hot to cold. Now the other valve seemed to not work. The problem was in the "Floodsafe" feature of the supply hose (shuts off if flow exceeds 2.5 gpm) Reset the hose and all is well.

Had a similar problem with the FH Error Code. Water filled continuously until the high level was reached which was apprarently causing the FH error code. Turns out it was a hole in the Pressure Line going to the Pressure Switch causing a failure in the water level measurement. I removed the pressure line, blew air into it, and immediately located a hole in the line. I taped the line temporarily and the problem is resolved. This was an EXCELLENT Post.

Thanks for those who posted the possible fixes.

My Kenmore HE3 had the FH error after about 8 mins of cycle start. The washer would fill up with water and then stop. After that it was at least possible to drain the water by stopping the cycle and running the drain cycle.

As per suggested solutions:

1. First I removed the flowmeter from the rubber hoses that held it and blew air threw it. Also checked the resistance using an OHMmeter and found 0 ohms when nothing blew threw it and showed resistance when the wheel spun. Replaced it back, but the problem persisted.

2. Next, I found the black soft rubber hose/tube connected to the pressure sensor which is a red disc plastic part on the right upper side towards the back of the washer. I ran my fingers along the tube that went down and towards the back of the washer and found it connected to the main drum. When I felt the tube down there I felt it weak and flimsy at one spot. It was where it was touching the drum and perhaps the rotating wheel of the motor. I pulled it off and disconnected the tube (about 2 feet long). Just as someone said, it was worn out (as if someone scraped it with a fine sandpaper on a 2 inch section) and there was a really tiny pinhole at the center of it.

Went to a local hardware store and got a clear vinyl tube (like the ones used for aquariums) - 3/16th inch inside diameter and replaced the soft rubber tube. Store did not have a rubber tube. Hopefully the vinyl tube will be more durable than the soft rubber, though I see why the rubber is useful to allow drum movement, but vinyl I think is soft enough for that too.

Routed it from behind the drain pipe to keep it away from the drum as far as possible. Started the washer and works perfectly.

Hope this helps!

Where is the flow meter located? Is it labeled? I am having the exact problem but did not see where anyone said WHERE it is located or how to get to it. I am an idiot in a sea of FH codes.

I have tried all of the above mentioned techniques, back to 2005, to figure out the FH code. Have not resolved it. Installed new inlet valve. Still getting code 2 min after start. Any help would be appreciated. Really disappointed/frustrated.

Where is the flow meter, the pressure switch...and, what is the CCU? Where is the CCU? My washer is giving the F/H error code and will not fill. There is water to the machine. I have checked and cleaned the screens. What panels do I have to remove to get to the flow meter, pressure switch and the CCU? I am getting NO water in the machine. It's starts tumbling w/o water then gives the F/H error code. Another reader was requesting the location of these parts...I did not see a response indicating the location of these parts. Please provide the location and general description of the flow meter, the pressure switch...and what the heck does CCU stand for?

Thank-you tons!!! ...another single woman trying to make it on her own - your assistance will be greatly appreciated! :) (Times like this, I wish I were not alone...you know what I mean?)

CCU = computer control unit or central control unit -- the computer board that runs machine.

You can search your model number at SearsPartsDirect.com to see diagrams of the machine's parts and assembly. Typically the top panel comes off for access to the parts in question.