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ilovesteaks

Kenmore F/11 F/DL Problems

ilovesteaks
18 years ago

After reviewing all of the messages posted on the web (WOW!), I dove into the CCU (Central Control Unit) and the MCU (Motor Control Unit). I spent 4-6 hours working, removing, testing, running the machine through the cycles, and then the onboard diagnostic. (The codes are found in the tech's manual found in the lower RH side by first removing the lower front cabinet access - Use a torex #20 to remove the 3 screws on the access panel).

The F11 code is from a communication break in the serial link from the CCU to the MCU (from the brains to the washer motor controller). Stay with me here!

There are three blue wires that go to the MCU from the CCU. Most of the problems probably occur during the final spin when the machine spins fastest and longest to extract all of the water.

Hence, the most vibrations cause the connectors to shake until there is a break in communication!

I got both the F/11 and F/DL error codes. I took the top of the machine off (three #20 torex screws on the top back) to gain access into the machine. The CCU is top center back and has the spaghetti of wire going to it. You will see white wires on the far right of the CCU. Then going left they turn to black. The black set (3 wires) left of the row of white wires if for the Door Lock/Unlock. It IS a problem for the F/DL error. It is not making a good connection. Next the blue wire on the LHS of the CCU, last set (back) there are three blue wires. These 3 go to the MCU and are the serial communication lines. Point these out to whom ever repairs your machine. They will see that when wiggled during a F-error, the error will go away (temporarily).

I can't believe that Sears is an American company and does so much advertising only to let us down! And to think I was going to purchase an LCD flat screen TV from them. A company such as Sears should have contacted us before (they have our information, right?) and told us that they knew of the problem and were doing something about it. But for $2,200 (washer/dryer), my money will be on LG.

Thanks for nothing Sears, you can now join AT&T on my list.

Comments (4)

  • hbw248
    18 years ago

    Your machine is manufactured by Whirlpool for Sears. Why is it Sears fault? There are very few problems with these machines. The F11 code can be triggered by fiddling with the controls to quickly. Why are you condemning Sears for one faulty unit out of thousands that work perfectly?

    My machine will be five years old this August and hasn't displayed any of these problems. I would think after several years of vibration it would have failed by now, according to you.

  • ericx23_yahoo_com
    17 years ago

    I bought a top of the line Whirlpool Duet washing machine in November 2004 (GHW9400PL) with the matching tumble dryer. After a few months, got some problems with it. The door lock was changed once, and two subsequent service calls brought two replacements CCUs. About a month ago, the machine has these same problems as experienced by so many owners of machines built by Whirlpool, that is F11 as well as F/DL error codes - this is a two-year old machine. Whirlpool Canada does not want to hear anything about taking responsibility. I think a machine that breaks four times in two years should be replaced. Whirlpool suggests I pay 69$ for a technician who will spend no more than 20 minutes for that money and will subsequently charge for time and parts. The customer service representative doesn't want to give his name, he doesn't want to pass me on to a supervisor. The company doesn't answer emails. This is an absence of service. I just can't believe it, they seem to think that the customer is always wrong, so just let them pay. No thanks, I'm going to small claims court with that. Never again Whirlpool.

  • mysteryonion
    17 years ago

    Hi ericx23,

    The big problem is that Whirlpool is looking to dodge having to fix their crap for free.

    The machine will work again if you are willing to dig into it and solder up whirlpool's mess. Based on information from other posts on this site and others on the subject of F11 and DL errors. I've been able to successfully fix our machine and it is still working as if new, but I am fully aware it may crap out again when the relay switch arcs too much. I've looked into ordering new relays that are same or hopefully better than originals. For now all is well again and all it took was some solder, time and previous pulling clumps of hair in frustration (and a whirlpool voodoo doll too). If you have not found info...search under "whirlpool, F11, relay switches"...Or I can try to give the sorted details. Good luck.

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