xx1x1x11 = Code 43 = OOB Switch Fault. The off-balance switch is either stuck "on" or the wiring is disconnected/broken. Switch or activation lever is stuck/jammed. Bad wires or connector (corroded). Less likely, motor controller board is bad.

Confirm the fault code via Diagnostic Mode. A User fault displayed during operation isn't always the same as a recorded Machine fault code.

With power off, press and hold Wash Temp Down, then Press Power at the same time. Should get two beeps and the panel activates into Diagnostic Mode.

There are 16 levels (0 through 15) of diagnostic info, current level is indicated by the spin speed lights. Fault code is read at Level 3. Press Spin Speed Up and/or Down alternately as needed until both the Hold and Slow lights are on.

Fault codes is displayed on the 8 cycle progress lights, from left values of 128, 64, 32, 16, 8, 4, 2, 1. Add the numbers.

Test the lid safety switch and OOB switch via Level 4. Adjust the spin speed buttons until only the Medium light is on. Push the tub toward the right-rear corner to trigger the OOB switch, the 6-min wash light comes on ... otherwise the 6-min should NOT be on. If 6-min is lit when the tub is not pushed to trigger the OOB switch, then the switch is bad/stuck. Open/close the lid (safety switch), the 12-min wash light should be on/off.

If the OOB switch needs replacement, SearsPartsDirect.com carries it, Part Number 420313, $25.99.
The trigger-lever is 502220, $10.99.
OOB wiring harness (which includes the lid switch) is 426515, $49.99.
Of course, replace only what's needed, if anything.

Thanks so much, dadoes! There didn't appear to be any fault code at level 3. On level 4 the 4th and 8th lights were on before I pushed the tub, nothing else happened when I pushed it. I did notice that if I changed levels and came back to 4, sometimes it was just the 4th and 8th lights on, and other times it was the 3rd, 4th, 6th, 7th and 8th. Not sure what that's about.

I did have bedding and towels in in the load when it went out....things that are commonly unbalanced. I am not sure which is the '6 minute light' but if it is the 4th, it sounds like I need an OOB switch. If you have more to add, please do! If not, thanks SO much for your help!!!

The 4th wash progress light (counting from the left) is the 6-min light, so if it's on at diagnostic level 4 *without* having pushed the tub toward the corner to trigger the OOB switch, then the switch is stuck "on" when it shouldn't be. There's your problem.

Carried from previous models and although not functional as such or labeled as such on the console, the first five wash progress lights from the left are considered as 15 min, 12 min, 9 min, 6 min, and 3 min.

The 8th light (final spin) in level 4 indicates the machine/tub size is "large."

good news - my personal Handyman discovered the wires to the OOB switch were just corroded and so I already have a working washer again! Thanks so much for your help, dadoes! You saved us a bunch of cash!

good news - my personal Handyman discovered the wires to the OOB switch were just corroded and so I already have a working washer again! Thanks so much for your help, dadoes! You saved us a bunch of cash!

eh! the washer is acting up again (on and off) with the same code....I just ordered a switch...

I LOVE MY F&P WHEN IT WORKS. Unfortunately, that isn't often.

Always confounds me how one person may have frequent trouble with a given appliance brand/model and others don't. I have four F&P appliances (not counting an F&P-branded dryer that's sourced from GE).
My 12-years-10-months-old GWL08 washer had its first repair last November, pump replacement.
My 8-years-9-months-old DD603 DishDrawer, no repairs as-such thus far, although a couple transitory malfunctions.
My 7-years-5-months-old IWL12 washer and DEGX1 dryer, no repairs.

What's the problem you're having?

finally got a code to show up while in operation - blocked pump - although it doesn't show in diagnostic mode. we'll try that first...it hasn't been draining and/or spinning right for months and still having suds in the bottom when it does finish...how can you tell if there is a diverter valve issue?

In its defense I do have a farm family of 7 - LOTS of laundry and the poor thing has been chugging away for 11 years...

oh, and it has a steady drip from the intake into the tub...

I answered some details in your other thread. Also sent an off-board message.

Drip from the fill flume of course is a water valve issue. Shut off one of the supply faucets, then the other as required to determine whether hot or cold is the fault. A bit of sand/debris in the water can obstruct a valve from closing. They can't be disassembled to clear debris (must be replaced), but I've had success in a couple cases of tapping on the valve solenoid (inside the console) while the water is flowing to jog a clog loose ... may or may not work in any given case.