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Fisher Paykel GWL11 not filling in rinse cycle

permda
11 years ago

I am trying to find out if anyone knows what is wrong with my washer (Fisher Paykel GWL11). The washer works fine until the rinse cycle and the tub never fills to rinse. I went into diagnostic mode and no error codes. The fill valve is working fine. The pump works fine in diagnostic mode and in normal use. Any help would be wonderful!

Comments (8)

  • dadoes
    11 years ago

    The default rinse on the Regular and Heavy Duty cycles is a series of shower-spray-spin rinses. The tub does not fill for an agitated rinse unless the Softener Rinse option is selected. This is not a malfunction, it's normal operation. Perhaps you're just now noticing it?

    Have you tried engaging the Softener Rinse option to see if a full-fill agitated rinse occurs?

    Perm Press, Delicate, and Woolens cycles do run a 'traditional' agitated rinse.

    If you are in fact experiencing a malfunction/problem, it may be the diverter valve.

    I can provide more details on how to test the diverter after you answer the above questions.

  • permda
    Original Author
    11 years ago

    I have checked the diverter valve with the diagnostic mode and the 'delicate' button and 'regular' buttons. The pump drained water and then with the delicate button pushed, it recirculated. Everything seemed to work. I even removed the hoses and made sure nothing was blocking the diverter valve.

    I will try to better describe what is going. With a normal cycle, the washer seems to work normally until it gets to the rince cycle (3 rt lights on). At this point it pauses and intermitantly sprays and spins (though it seems to struggle getting up to full speed). There is still soap on the clothes and doesn't always empty or advance to spin.

    With the softner rinse selected, the tub did fill in the rinse mode, but it would empty some and wait 2-3 minutes and then empty a little more and wait again and again. There is still soap on the clothes.

    With soap on the clothes, I am wondering if it is emptying completely even in the wash cycle. It eventually gets so that you can't see water in the tub, but there may be some water underneath.

    I would love any ideas or other ways to diagnose the problem. Thank you so much.

  • dadoes
    11 years ago

    With a normal cycle, the washer seems to work normally until it gets to the rince cycle (3 rt lights on). At this point it pauses and intermitantly sprays and spins (though it seems to struggle getting up to full speed). That is how the shower-spray-spin rinse works. The wash water drains. Then there is a rinse period that runs through varying sequences of spinning at 300 RPM, 600 RPM, and 25 RPM, with sprays occurring at several points. The final spin follows, which ramps up to 1000 RPM if the highest spin speed is selected.
    With the softner rinse selected, the tub did fill in the rinse mode, but it would empty some and wait 2-3 minutes and then empty a little more and wait again and again. There is still soap on the clothes.

    With soap on the clothes, I am wondering if it is emptying completely even in the wash cycle. It eventually gets so that you can't see water in the tub, but there may be some water underneath.
    The machine physically can't spin unless the water is drained. Water in the tub makes the inner basket float slightly upwards to disengage from the drive coupler, it can't spin until the water drains and it re-engages the coupler.

    There shouldn't be any "wait 2-3 minutes" pauses during the drain periods following either the agitated wash or the agitated rinse. The pump should run through the drain period with *very* short pauses of maybe 1/2 second every 30 seconds or so until toward the end (when the inner basket de-floats) at which point the momentary pauses cease (they are to assist with flushing lint). Much longer pauses occurring indicates a probable bad pump. The pump has thermal overheat protection. It'll shut off if it overheats, then run again when it cools.

    Run the pump again in diagnostics and let it go for 5 to 7 minutes to confirm it doesn't shut off. Also, visually examine the pump for evidence of leaking, rusting or mineral deposits. Dismount it (no tools needed, ask if you aren't sure how to do it) and check if the impeller turns freely, or seems stiff or loose as if from bad bearings. As you've probably read in other threads here or elsewhere, a bad pump MUST be replaced ASAP or it can short-out and zap the controller board.

    I'm not sure what'd be the cause of obvious soap-suds remaining. Maybe the pump cycling off on overload, it isn't keeping up with draining the extracted wash & rinse water during spin. Maybe you're using too much detergent? Run a load through a full (short) wash & rinse cycle with no detergent, check if it seems rinsed better.

  • permda
    Original Author
    11 years ago

    Thanks again for your help.

    I filled the tub and ran the pump through the diagnostic mode. It only ran for 30 seconds. Once I had drained the tub, I removed the pump. It was pretty hot and I had to wait for it to cool a bit before I removed it. There were no obstructions or anything caught around the fins.

    I am ready to order a new pump, if you think that is what I should do. I feel like I should replace the pump even if there might be another problem with the washer.

    Does all that make sense to you?

    Thanks!

  • dadoes
    11 years ago

    Absolutely replace the pump.

  • permda
    Original Author
    11 years ago

    I ordered a new pump today. It should be here by Monday. I will let you know how it turns out. It was so nice of you to help. Thanks again!

  • permda
    Original Author
    11 years ago

    I installed the pump today and the washer is working perfectly! Thanks again for all your help!

  • dadoes
    11 years ago

    Pleased to be of assistance.