In case the link is ever broken, cut and paste the PDF file here: Linda Chalker-Scott, Ph.D., Extension Horticulturist and Associate Professor, Puyallup Research and Extension Center, Washington State University The Myth of Gypsum Magic âAdding gypsum to your yard or garden will improve soil tilth and plant healthâ The Myth Upon continued prodding from one of my university extension colleagues, I recently watched several episodes of a well-known gardening program on television. My kids joined me, alerted by my animated responses to the hostâs non-stop torrent of advice. Among many amazing discoveries I learned that by adding gypsum to my yard or garden I would improve my problem soils by changing the particle size and loosening compaction. Further searching on the web revealed that gypsum would also improve drainage, decrease acidity, and eliminate soil salts. Previously, I had heard of gypsum for use in soil reclamation projects, but not for a typical urban landscape. Since gypsum is simply calcium sulfate, could this chemical truly transform soil structure and serve as a fertilizer for yards and gardens? The Reality This myth falls into the category of agricultural practices misapplied to ornamental landscapes. Gypsum effectively changes the structure and fertility of heavy clay soils, especially those that are heavily weathered or subject to intensive crop production. Gypsum also improves sodic (saline) soils by removing sodium from the soil and replacing it with calcium. Therefore, one can see improvement in clay soil structure and fertility, and desalinization of sodium-rich soils, by using gypsum. What other effects will gypsum have on soil and plant health? There are a number of scientific studies on gypsum usage both in the literature and on websites. Briefly, researchers have found: ⢠Gypsum does not usually change soil acidity, though occasional reports of both increasing and decreasing pH exist; ⢠Gypsum can increase leaching of aluminum, which can detoxify soils but also contaminates nearby watersheds; ⢠Gypsum can increase leaching of iron and manganese, leading to deficiencies of these nutrients; ⢠Gypsum applied to acid soils can induce magnesium deficiency in plants on site; ⢠Gypsum applied to sandy soils can depress phosphorus, copper and zinc transport; ⢠Gypsum can have negative effects on mycorrhizal inoculation of roots, which may account for several reports of negative effects of gypsum on tree seedling establishment and survival; ⢠Gypsum is variable in its effects on mature trees; ⢠Gypsum will not improve fertility of acid or sandy soils; ⢠Gypsum will not improve water holding capacity of sandy soils; and ⢠Gypsumâs effects are short-lived (often a matter of months) With the exception of arid and coastal regions (where soil salts are high) and the southeastern United States (where heavy clay soils are common), gypsum amendment is just not necessary in non-agricultural areas. Urban soils are generally amalgamations of subsoils, native and non-native topsoils, and - in home landscapes - high levels of organic and non-organic chemical additives. They are also heavily compacted and layered (and gypsum does not work well on layered soils). In such landscapes, it is pointless to add yet more chemicals in the form of gypsum unless you need to increase soil calcium levels. This nutrient deficiency can be quickly identified by any soil testing laboratory for less than a bag of gypsum costs. (If you need to improve sulfur nutrition, itâs wiser to use ammonium sulfate). To reduce compaction and improve aeration in nearly any landscape, application of an organic mulch is more economically and environmentally sustainable. The Bottom Line ⢠Gypsum can improve heavy clay soil structure and remove sodium from saline soils ⢠Gypsum has no effect on soil fertility, structure, or pH of any other soil type ⢠Most urban soils are not improved by additional gypsum ⢠Before adding gypsum or any chemical to a landscape, have soil analysis performed to identify mineral deficiencies, toxicities, and soil character ⢠Adding gypsum to sandy or non-sodic soils is a waste of money, natural resources, and can have negative impacts on plant, soil, and ecosystem health For more information, please visit Dr. Chalker-Scottâs web page at http://www.theinformedgardener.com.

Did you get in touch with the last 2 people yet? Let me know if you need help reaching them and I will try. Time is running out.

Debbie, Gigi, Carol & Scarlett: I like the Sunset books too! One of the first garden guides I ever bought (about 25years ago!)was Sunset's "Garden Color, Annuals & Perennials". I had forgotten that there was a small encyclopedia in the back that included info on how to care for each plant. A very nice little book! I also received the Sunset book, "Cottage Gardens" for Christmas. Beautiful photos and helpful info on many plants. Marylu, I agree with Haziemoon. Great idea about having an ongoing wish list! Georgeanne & Bibliobeth, there are certainly never enough flowers or books at THIS house! Nan, The "Rodale's encyclopedia is excellent. I highly recommend it to everyone! As for garden magazines, I am definitely hooked. They are piling up now, unread next to my comfy chair. Waiting for a snowy day when I have time to read them! Leslie, you HAD to mention English Garden magazine! I'd never heard of it before and a flyer came in the mail TODAY with a reduced rate, and since you spoke about it in such glowing terms, I just had to get out my checkbook and subscribed on the spot! It's all your fault. Haha! I agree with you about Larry Hodgson's books. "Perennials for Every Purpose" is such a great book. The way the plants are divided up by growing conditions, such as wet areas or shade is extreemly helpful, especially when I am unloading a trunk load of newly purchased plants, and can't remember which plant likes which conditions. Honeysucklecottage, I've never attempted to grow herbs, but I'd like to try next year. Rob Proctor's book will be first on my new "Wish list", along with the American Hort. A-Z encyclopedia that Lynne suggested. Thanks everyone for your comments and suggestions. I hope others will add their fav "how to" book. Patti

"And should you have to?" - I have a BS range top w/ 6" SS back trim and the scorching comes from when I don't wipe down the SS after cooking, then the residue gets 'scorched on' by the high heat of subsequent rear burner use. I used to get nasty scorch buildup (?) on the SS backsplash and would occasionally have to labor with hot water and barkeepers to get the SS clean again. Eventually I figured out that if I just give the SS a simple wipedown after any sort of splatter or fry type cooking I avoid the scorching completely.