According to all the historical sources they are different. I would read the Apples of New York descriptions and see which kind you have two of :-) They do sound pretty similar in the descriptions. I have only White Winter Pearmain so cannot give a first-hand comparison. In reading the descriptions I would say the uniformity of shape is a good marker -- WWP is quite uniform on my tree and Winter Banana sounds much more variable. Scott PS here they are. WINTER BANANA. Fruit large, clear pale yellow with beautiful contrasting pinkish-red blush, attractive in appearance, characteristically aromatic, of good dessert quality, but too mild in flavor to excel for culinary uses. The tree is a pretty good grower, comes into bearing young, is almost an annual bearer and yields moderate to rather heavy crops. In ordinary storage the fruit is in season from mid-November to the first of April, but its safe commercial limit in this climate probably would not extend much beyond December. In cold storage it ranks as a keeper about with Rhode Island Greening, but is not equal to Baldwin. It could perhaps be used to advantage commercially to follow the Maiden Blush and extend the season for fruit having the general appearance of that variety. As compared with Maiden Blush this is larger, neither as uniform nor as symmetrical, better for dessert use but less desirable for culinary purposes. Its color is such that it shows bruises more readily than do red apples like Baldwin or Tompkins King. It is sufficiently promising to be worthy of further testing where an apple of this color is desired. Another variety which has been disseminated under the name Banana is a sweet apple. It is described on page 60 under the name Banana Sweet. Historical. Winter Banana originated on the farm of David Flory near Adamsboro, Cass county, Ind., about 1876. It was introduced by Greening Brothers, Monroe, Michigan, in 1890 (4, 5). It has as yet been but little planted irv this state. TREE. Tree medium in size, vigorous. Form rather flat, spreading and somewhat inclined to droop, open. Twigs long, curved or nearly straight, moderately stout; internodes long. Bark reddish-brown mingled with olive-green, lightly and irregularly coated with scarf-skin, pubescent. Lenticels conspicuous, numerous, medium to large, round or slightly elongated, raised. Buds sunk in the bark, medium or above, plump, acute to obtuse, free, slightly pubescent. FRUIT. Fruit nearly large to very large, not very uniform in size or shape. Form roundish conic to oblong conic, or sometimes oblate and noticeably flat at the base, often irregularly elliptical and somewhat ribbed; axis sometimes oblique; sides often unequal. Stem short to moderately long, medium in thickness to rather slender. Cavity usually rather large, acute to acuminate, moderately shallow to deep, broad, gently furrowed, sometimes lipped, smooth or sometimes partly russeted. Calyx small to medium, partly open or sometimes closed; lobes convergent or connivent, short to medium length, obtuse to acute. Basin small to medium, often decidedly oblique, rather shallow to moderately deep, usually rather narrow but sometimes moderately wide, obtuse to rather abrupt, furrowed and wrinkled. Skin smooth, moderately thick, tough, waxy, bright pale yellow, often with a blush which in well-colored specimens deepens to dark pinkish-red. Often a suture line extends from the basin nearly or quite to the cavity. Dots numerous, whitish and submerged or with fine russet point. Prevailing effect yellow with a pretty contrasting blush. Caly.v tube wide above, rather short, cone-shape or funnel-form. Stamens median to marginal. Core rather small to above medium, abaxile; cells not uniformly developed, usually symmetrical and open, sometimes closed; core lines somewhat clasping. Carpels elongated ovate, narrow, emarginate, tufted. Seeds often abortive; the plump ones vary from small to rather large and are more or less irregular, usually obtuse to acute, dull dark brown, sometimes tufted. Flesh whitish tinged with pale yellow, moderately firm, a little coarse, somewhat crisp, tender, juicy, mild subacid, distinctly aromatic, good to very good. WHITE PEARMAIN. This is an old favorite dessert apple in portions of the Middle West from Ohio to Kansas. It appears to succeed better in those regions than it does in New York. It is not recommended for planting in this state. Historical. Warder says " This favorite fruit was brought to Indiana by some of the early pomologists, in the days of saddle-bag transportation. In a lot of grafts, two varieties, having lost their labels, were propagated and fruited without name. Being considered Pearmain-shaped, they were called respectively Red and White Winter Pearmains. The former proved to he the Esopus Spitzenberg; the latter has never yet been identified, though believed to be an old eastern variety." For a time it was confused with an old New Jersey apple by the name of Michael Henry Pippin, and Elliott fell into the error of publishing White Pearmain and White Winter Pearmain as synonyms of Michael Henry Pippin* but it was finally conceded that White Pearmain and Michael Henry Pippin are distinct varieties (4, 7), In 1858 it was catalogued by the American Pomological Society as White Winter Pearmain (5). Since 1897 (13) it has been listed as White Pearmain but it is very doubtful whether this change will be generally accepted by fruit growers and fruit dealers. This variety has been little grown in New York and is now seldom or never planted here. TREE. Tree vigorous. Form spreading. Twigs short, stout, blunt at tips, generally straight; internodes vary from short to long. Bark reddish-brown overlaid with heavy scarf-skin, quite pubescent Lcnticels conspicuous, numerous, above medium, elongated, raised. Buds large, projecting, acute, quite pubescent, free. FRUIT. Fruit below medium to nearly large, uniform in size and shape. Form roundish ovate or roundish approaching oblong conic, varying to roundish conic, somewhat ribbed, pretty symmetrical. Stem medium to long. Cavity rather small to above medium, acute, deep, moderately narrow to broad, somewhat furrowed, sometimes russeted. Calyx medium to large, usually closed; lobes long, acute. Basin small to medium, oblique, shallow and obtuse to medium in depth and rather abrupt, medium in width, often distinctly furrowed, wrinkled, pubescent. Skin tough, smooth, slightly waxen, pale yello\v, or at first greenish, writh a shade of brownish-red. Dots numerous, pale or russet, often submerged, usually larger and much elongated about the cavity. Calyx tube long, conical. Core medium to rather large; cells closed or partly open; core lines somewhat clasping. Carpels rather flat, broad or roundish-cordate, emarginate, mucronate, tufted. Seeds light brown, medium to large, rather wide, plump, obtuse to acute, tufted. Flesh slightly tinged with yellow, firm, fine-grained, crisp, tender, juicy, mild subacid, sprightly, very pleasantly aromatic, very good to best. Season December to March.

24 X 30 is not a standard commercially sized g'house but should be a nice sized one for your purposes. If you are serious about conserving heat, you may wish to look into a pit-style greenhouse. I have one g'house we earth dammed into a hillside on its north side and it is by far my most efficient one. It was the first one we erected, and still my fav for growing and I keep this one fired all winter in a colder zone than you and it's cheaper to heat than the smaller one next to it. Actually a heavier double layer poly film with air inflation is as insulative as a thinner twin walled polycarb. If you are off the grid, you can get out of using electrically dependent fans by using roll siding. Big greenhouse fans are a heavy electrical user. This would be an issue with wind and solar power. The new top vent designs are also something you might want to look into. A grower up the road has these and it seems to be working for him quite well. I use a variety of systems depending on what I am growing in which house. There is absolutely no reason for you to be running your g'house in summer months. You will not be able to cool it down enough without some major equipment to produce a vegetable product as healthy as one grown outdoors. Let God and nature take care of that one. Use it for season extension. You can literally write books (heck libraries) of advice on setting up a first greenhouse but what you do now shall impact the success of your project down the road, so choose carefully and keep your expectations realistic. I've been operating g'houses for 25 years now and I had to still ask a lot of questions for each house we erected and it takes awhile to get to know what you can demand from them and at what expense. I'm putting a good link below with some very basic information you might find helpful. Good luck and good growing. Here is a link that might be useful: greenhouse buying guide

There was a claymation - type commercial for Lipton Iced Tea about 5-6 years ago. It was a baseball game with Babe Ruth, Reggie Jackson, et al in it. Babe was hung over and sweating like a pig. Reggie gave him a can of the tea and told Babe "Now, give it a ride." afterwhich Babe socked a homer. I got a kick out of the fact that Babe had swung and missed, the bat flew into the dugout and hit George Steinbrenner (Yankees owner) in the head! At the end of the commercial he was wearing a bandage! (not Yankee fans here in Phila; Mets either) Another version had Sylvester Stallone as Rocky. He's getting beaten up until the tea invigorates him. He starts winning "Save some of that for the sequel!"

I'm such a sap for anything with an animal in it but 2 animals makes me cry. Ok I do tear up at even one animal. I loved it when the crew all went ahhhhh, A touching moment. Thanks for sharing. Mary