I looked at that parts site again these engines all have a flywheel like yours but use that other kind of recoil starter (why there's 2 different part numbers I don't know): GV100K1 -- LD2 GV100K1 -- NICG 28400-ZG1-T12ZA STARTER ASSY., RECOIL (HFI) *R8 * 28400-ZG1-T12ZB STARTER ASSY., RECOIL (HFI) *NH1* GV100K1 -- LD2 GV100K1 -- N1CG 28400-ZG1-T12ZA STARTER ASSY., RECOIL (HFI) *R8 * 28400-ZG1-T12ZB STARTER ASSY., RECOIL (HFI) *NH1 * GV100K1 -- NIR2 28400-ZG1-T02ZA STARTER ASSY., RECOIL (HFI) *R8 * 28400-ZG1-T02ZB STARTER ASSY., RECOIL (HFI) *NH1 * On the other hand these engines all have a flywheel like yours but use the kind of recoil starter that you have: GV100K2 -- A1 GV100K2 -- A2 GV100K2 -- A2CG GV100K2 -- A2G 28400-ZL1-003 STARTER ASSY., RECOIL Confusing isn't it. From something I found on the net it said that in the states Honda was very tight with their information and that only authorized dealers could get parts and that's why they made the information difficult to get. Apparently the serial number on the mower has encoded into it whether or not it's K1, K2, etc. Apparently it designates which revision it is. Do you have the serial number for the mower itself, that might shed some light on what your dealing with. You originally said that the seller started it and offered you to "have a go". Does that mean you started it as well or just tried it out? Your subject says the pull cord was stuck, did you mean it was stuck in the pulled out position or that it wouldn't pull out? Maybe you have the correct parts and there something else to it not working?

Try the link below. Here is a link that might be useful: RCPW

I realize that this is an old thread but I want to respond for anyone with a similar problem in the future. I am amazed that someone would tell you to hire a licensed plumber for such an incredibly easy job. Come on, folks! Have we become so helpless? When I read the question, I assumed it was about copper or galvanized pipe which would be very easy to fix too but then I saw it's PVC pipe. Nothing could be easier to fix and I have no idea why the person asking the question thinks he cannot remove the elbow. Of course you can remove it! You can simply cut it out with a hacksaw and put in a new elbow. You can extend the pipe that is cut off easily with just a union and a piece of PVC. Working with PVC is so incredibly easy that I am baffled about why the question was even asked. A proper repair would take about ten minutes and cost a couple dollars. I never cease to be amazed by how helpless people are becoming. This is pretty sad.

Dafna sells on EBay. I bought 20 lbs of STPP last year. I also was monitoring Amazon and EBay when it stopped being available. Other sellers charge quite a bit more. It is available again YAY on both Amazon and EBay for those wondering. I have studied detergent formularies extensively and always look up the MSDS (Material Safety Data Sheet) for old laundry and dishwashing detergents. Premium or Industrial powdered laundry detergent has on average 20-30% phosphorus by weight, consumer strength about 10-15%. Premium dishwashing powder detergent comes either chlorinated w/ phosphorus or enzyme based w/ phosphorus. (Bleach kills enzymes so you'll never see any formulas with both together). Phosphate content is 11% for industrial strength Cascade or 8% for consumer strength. Biz powdered detergent has a higher percentage of the main ingredient sodium percarbonate in comparison to Oxiclean. Biz is an enzyme based detergent, which means it works best in warm, not hot water (hot water destroys the enzymes). Enzymes need time to eat and break down protein based stains which is why heavily soiled items should be soaked overnight/24 hours to be the most effective. I use 1/2 a cup of Biz in my HE top load washer with 1 TBS sodium tripolyphosphate (STPP from Dafna General) and soak my whites overnight and wash the next day. I never use bleach because it is toxic and it breaks down clothing fibers over time. For dish detergent I use Cascade Platinum packs with 1 tsp STPP in the detergent section, and 1 tsp Citric Acid or LemiShine plus 1/2 tsp approx. of Dawn Ultra original blue dish soap in the pre-rinse compartment. Similarly, I also have used Up and Up powder detergent, Lemishine, and STPP altogether in the detergent compartment with just a squirt of Dawn as the pre-rinse. I have found that the Up and Up brand works exactly the same as Cascade for me when I add the citric acid and STPP along with it.