If you carefully wipe away the foam, you'll find your answer: a fat little dark-eyed green creature about the size of a sesame seed called a froghopper nymph, so named for the adult insect's squat shape, pop eyes and leaping ability. The nymph stage is better known as a spittlebug. Froghoppers/spittlebugs insert their "beak" & suck sap through their bodies, extracting nutrients. As the liquid comes out the other end, mixed with soapy abdominal secretions, the insect puffs air into it through a special organ, blowing bubbles. The froth flows down and around the nymph (they feed facing head down), keeping it cool, moist and hidden from you (unless you look). ;o) Al

Thought you where going to talk about a variety of lime I was unfamiliar with. Still I read with amusement. I agree stranger things have happened, but I will say the rootone is unnecessary. The wound reaction of the cambium layer is what knits the scion to the stock plant. When I was in college I had a very good horticulture professor who's father used to field graft seedlings in the orchard. The main thing he used to stress was to make sure the cuts are done with a sharp knife and the scion is cut smoothly without any undulation so there are no gaps for air to get in and dry out the scion as it heals. Also, try for semi hardwood scion wood preferably pencil thickness or slightly smaller. Semi Hardwood comes from the center of the branch. Greenwood=at the terminal end is too flimsy and Hardwood at the base of the brach=too hard and thick. Prep the scion wood by defoliating at the petiole. The axillary buds on the branch are located where the petiole of the leaf attaches to the stem. Also called "nodes". I like scion wood with at least 2 to 3 nodes so when the scion sprouts there is the potential for more leaf and stem mass. Use budding rubber or rubber bands of medium width approx 1/4 inch and as long as possible. If your using rubberband cut them to form one strand. Or I have had luck with green non adhesive tie tape. Wrap the graft tight to make sure there is good contact between the scion and the stock. Start the wrap below the graft so you have an area that has stability and continue over the union of the stock and scion. Like your bandaging your knee if you injured it. Tie off the end by pulling the terminal end under the final wrap and cinch it tight and cut off the excess if need be. You could add grafting wax over the wrap if you think air is likely to get in. Also use some type of pruning sealer at the terminal end of the scion becuse that has been cut too and can dry out as well. Or perhaps you could bubble gum like you tried already. The book to consult is the "Grafter's Handbook" which is still in print, I think. It's been around a long time but is still the text to consult as a primer. Try the American Horticultural Society website; they have a bookstore. A little long winded but I tried to make it concise. Look up whip grafts or vaneer grafts. I like those. Good luck!!!

Unplug the Christmas bubble lights from the wall outlet. Unscrew the bubble lights from the light socket and give the Christmas bubble light bulb a good shaking. When shaking the bubble light the liquids will be mix together again, restoring the bubbles to their original bubbling action

If I'm seeing the photo right, I might very carefully set a single edge razor blade flat on the floor and very carefully try to slice the protrusions off. I might also not worry about it, since it's a rental and the next tenant is fairly likely to not notice, or care. I don't let my rentals get run down, but I also don't go overboard with them. They're rentals. Tenants don't treat rentals like their own homes. There's just no percentage in making them nearly perfect.