I sold at fairs for years, and my products were garden art that could be mounted on copper stakes. I found some great buckets at Walmart that had lids, and I filled them with cheap cat litter. My stakes would go into the buckets, and they were heavy enough not to tip over. The lids made it easy to transport the buckets and not lose the litter. I also used a vintage suitcase to carry my wrapping paper & bags. I set it up on the plastic totes that I packed my items in, and it was always a hit with my customers. I also bought craft paper bags, the kind with the handles, or at Goodwill I'd buy gift bags and use those to put my customers purchases in. They just loved it...I know I get excited when I have a gift bag rather than a plastic bag! You can also find lightweight 6' folding tables for around $40. Easy to put up and easy to handle. I would put out about half my product at a time, and then bring in a new piece as one sold, and I offered to hold a customers purchase while they shopped. When they came back they'd see something new and have to buy it too! I also priced my items ending in .95, like %19.95 rather than $20, there is something psychological about that, they see it's under $20, so they 'justify' purchasing it. I kept a roll of nickles in my bag, but rarely did people want their change. I got an old bankers bag and kept my $ in there, and kept it packed up in my suitcase. Every week (or every show) I'd add $50 in change to keep it stocked, because inevitably I'd get a bunch of $20's and have to make change.

Confession: I do not clean my floor. However, my cleaning people do this which I have never seen other than them. They have been cleaning for me for more than a decade. They do 3 bedrooms, L/D/K rather quickly with this system. My cleaning people clean the floor by vacuuming and then using an old wet towel wrapped around a broom which they use as a makeshift mop. They use a rubber band to wrap the towel around the broom head when the broom head attaches to the broom stick so the towel does not fall off. They put a bit of osmo cleaning solution in the water since that is what I have on my floor. They rinse the towel as needed and wring out the towel quite a bit so that it is not dripping as many mops can be. It also has enough surface area so that the job is quick. I once asked them why they don't use a mop and they said it works better. I am also thinking that a bit of "mass" on the broom head helps rub off the sticky bits that may be on the floor. This is what they do with all their houses. I am guessing that speed is of essence. I am not sure if this helps but I thought I would toss it in since speed too maybe of essence to the poster.

I went looking for images of those elements. Ribbed glass panels in cabinet doors is easy enough. Here's one in a bathroom vanity: Ribbed glass (or ''seeded'' glass) is also often found in period light fixtures: As for marquetry countertops, if you asked most kitchen cabinet makers for such, I imagine they would gape blankly at the gabbling woman. But there are plenty of companies doing stock and custom hardwood marquetry inlays using CNC laser cutters. Here's the thing - they are doing it in floors. Google ''hardwood floor inlay'' and see. Yes, many of the rosettes are infeasible for a 26'' counter, but look for the ''border'' designs - or create your own. Assemble a 26'' wide section of inlaid ''floor'' on a 3/4'' plywood substrate, encase it in Waterlox, and I do believe you'd have yourself a marquetry countertop. Another option - perhaps cheaper - is stenciling on hardwood, of which this is an example. And so is this What else? Beveled glass is readily available, as is chrome countertop edging, and any furniture or auto upholstery shop can cover a panel of 1/8'' plywood in soft butterscotch leather framed in silver studs (maybe not actual silver, but close enough). I don't know exactly what version of Art Deco you are headed for, or if you even like butterscotch, but the point is, you are not doing yet another white kitchen, you're doing something that isn't being done by the mainstream, so the ordinary kitchen sources are not making this stuff. Sure, there is cool Art Deco hardware around, but what passes for ''Art Deco'' kitchen cabinetry in the online catalogs is . . . disappointing. You are going to have to make it, or at least source it, yourself - and I think if you're comfortable outside the painted lines, you can. You'll find yourself hiring a floor guy to work on a countertop, hunting down the local hot rod upholstery shops, telling your cabinet maker to fit bathroom vanity faces to kitchen cabinet boxes - they'll still look at you like you're crazy, but you'll know you're not. Go for it, girl!

While it's true that A&C is intrinsically a structural style, the OP likes a number of different styles and there are definitely things to do to make the room look and feel more turn-of-the century or Arts and Crafts. It would be helpful to see photos of the actual room, but here are some ideas that would make a big difference: Minimize gew-gaws (purely decorative dust-collecting objects). Choose objects for display that also serve a function. Think pitchers, candlesticks, lamps, mirrors, needlework. Eschew the curvaceous and embrace the rectilinear. Your big furnishings are already in place, but in selecting other objects, look for straight beefy lines, preferably real wood (of any species) pr metal, always with a matte finish. Think picture frames, mirrors, light fixtures. Your furniture color is fine. Look for Helen Foster's stencils online and choose a stencil pattern you like. Make one of the stencil colors blue to tie in the furniture. Stencil around the living rom at a height that seems right, but definitely closer to the ceiling than the midline. Ignore your w-to-w carpeting and use throw rugs on top. Choose any Orientals or look at William Morris designs for great patterns. O-stock has an extraordinary selection of well-priced rugs. Window coverings! Keep them as simple as possible. Muslin, cotton, like that. Stencil them as well if you want more pattern. Have fun!