Your rose is very, very young. It doesn't even have enough roots yet, to support real blooms, and you'd be doing it, and yourself a favor if you just removed the buds this first little flush, and gave it time to grow roots. Your plant will not be mature until it's been in the ground perhaps three years, but long before that, it will bloom in size and volume. Gardening teaches you patience. Jeri

Only if they are not kept sufficiently cool. Keep outdoors where they'll be safe from predators but are still subjected to low temps, like on a porch or in an unheated garage.

Hi, Welcome to the forum. We are happy to have you here. We have folks posting here from many states and we're always happy to have new friends. Residence in Oklahoma is not required! : ) Familiar with them? They are the bane of our existence, as I am sure you would agree. In each case, good sanitation and garden cleanup is required. Whatever you do, don't compost plants with heavy insect infestations because the pests may overwinter in or on the edges of your compost pile. I bag them up in black trash bags (thick, heavy duty ones like lawn and leaf bags), tie them tightly closed and haul them to the dump with the rest of our trash. (We're really rural and could burn them, but I absolutely would not burn any brush piles in the current conditions nor would I encourage anyone else to do so while fire danger remains so very high). Spider mites are very hard to control and to prevent from over-wintering. The female mites overwinter both in the soil and also in cracks and crevices in bark. If you have raised beds made with wood edging, they can overwinter in cracks and crevices in that wood, or underneath it. One method that might help you knock back their population would be to spray tree trunks and woody trunks and limbs of small trees and shrubs with dormant oil during the dormant season. Spider mites thrive in dry conditions but don't do as well in wet conditions. If your winter is very dry, it wouldn't hurt to water your garden soil once or twice a month with a nice deep watering. It likely will kill some of the spider mites. The time to vigorously attack them will be next spring as soon as you have the slightest inkling that they are around. I had them popping up on potted brugmansias on the patio in either late February or early March this year and I pretty much ignored them for a while because I didn't think the discolored foliage possibly could be spider mites. By the time I actually flipped over a leaf and found spider mites everywhere on the underside of that leaf, the spider mite population was huge. This year I will spray the brugmansias with dormant oil in winter and then with neem regularly after that. Many of the best spider mite solutions cannot be sprayed on our tender vegetable plants in hot temperatures (over 90 degrees) because they can cause leaf damage and even plant death, so aggressively tackling the spider mites by spraying the plants in spring when temperatures are still below 90 degrees will go a long way towards controlling them. Also, be careful what you choose to use and don't mix spraying with oil-based products with spraying with sulphur because the two together (even if you use them separately within a few days) will kill plants. You also can buy and release spider mite predators in spring to get control of the population before summer's heat arrives. They are available from places like Arbico. Research each potential beneficial insect/spider mite predator before you buy and be sure you're releasing them at the right time. Some of them can live/work only under very specific temperatures and relative humidities. With the SVBs, what works best for me is to put hoops made f from either PVC or electrical conduits over the rows of squash and to put floating row cover (like Agribon or Reemay) over those hoops, and secure it to the ground. This excludes squash bugs and SVBs by preventing them from reaching your plants. There's a couple of ways you can do it. You can keep the covers over them "forever" and hand-pollinate your own squash plants in the early morning hours. This is the most effective method and will keep your squash producing all summer as long as disease doesn't strike. The other way is to keep them covered until they begin flowering, and then remove the cover and hope for the best. Usually, when you do this, the pests eventually find your plants eventually, but hopefully by then you'll have had some squash mature that you can harvest and use. Some people cut some of the floating row cover fabric into long strips (sort of like gauze bandages if you can picture that) and wrap the stems of their plants to help exclude SVBs. This is not a 100% failsafe solution, but it helps. I have used knee-high stocking with the toe area cut out to do the same thing, and some people use aluminum foil. All of these work best if you get the end of the wrapping material into the ground a couple of inches so the borers cannot enter the plant just below the soil level. None of these will necessarily keep the SVBs out forever, but every little bit helps. Because you have neighbors who allow these pests to essentially breed and live in your area, you'll have the best success in future years with using floating row cover. I don't know if there is anything you can do to save your plants at this point. You might try either a summerweight dormant oil or neem oil sprayed on ONE plant as a test. The good thing is that it ought to smother the eggs. The bad thing is that these products can burn foliage if used in extreme temperatures like you and we have now. If you want to try it on one sacrificial plant, spray it, wait 24 to 48 hours to see if foliar burn appears on the foliage and then, if you are satisfied it is safe for the plants, proceed and spray the rest of your plants. Did the SVBs eventually get into your Long of Naples moschata? For winter squash, I pretty much only grow C. Moschata and of all the ones I've grown, 'Seminole' (available from Southern Exposure Seed Exchange among other places) has been the most SVB-resistant. This year I haven't had much of an SVB issue until the last two weeks, but my Seminole, Corn Field Pumpkin and 'Tahitian Melon' (a C. moschata winter squash, not actually a melon) remain unscathed so far, and they are not even covered with floating row cover. I am so sorry I cannot offer any guarantee solutions that will sae your melons and squash. I would be incredibly frustrated were I in your shoes.....which is why I started using floating row cover quite a few years back. I don't know that I have neighboring gardeners who allow the SVBs to thrive on their property, but we have a form of native squash (inedible) that grows wild here and is quite abundant in unmowed areas and in wildlife management land along the Red River and I suspect the SVBs infest it which enables them to thrive and then spread to home gardens. Because the infestation is so wide-spread in your area this year, you can expect to see them early and often next year. That's just a fact of life. Be sure to plant your squash and melons in a new area where no squash and melons grew this year and cover them with floating row cover. That, along with any other protection method you use will help a lot. If you haven't read about injecting squash vines with Bt or Spinosad via a syringe in an effort to kill whatever borer grubs make it inside your plants, you might want to go to the vegetable forum and do a search on that topic and read what some folks do. Their success varies. I've never tried it. I have a big garden and too little time and I've never been interested in spending part of my summer (especially insanely hot summers) injecting my plants with anything when I can largely avoid the problem with floating row cover. Next year, I'd use every IPM technique possible in an effort to defeat the SVBs and squash bugs. With spider mites. the time to do battle is spring. In the summer, most of what you could spray will damage the plants so you find yourself in a can't-win situation there. As bad as the spider mites have been here, I've had a great harvest off the plants they infested. I believe my spider mite levels are dropping as I'm' seeing some tomato plants make good new regrowth. Of course, that regrowth is under attack from blister beetles and other pests that eat foliage. Gardening in our climate is not for sissies and requires great fortitude on the part of the gardener, as you well know! Dawn

"Will the Hercules sink support system work for a farmhouse sink?" Yes, of course. It was used here and on other apron front sink jobs I've done. beacham is correct in the sense that on a new job such as yours, the cabinet, sink, and countertop would be designed to work together and no HUSH or Sink Strap should be necessary. In new work, I'd prefer the sink be mounted low enough that the sink could be caulked and driven into place with shims after the top was set.