Glenda- You must be a pro at packing by now because you travel a good bit. Aren't you going to Ireland and England - or do I have my travelers and trips mixed up? And where are you and your girlfriends cruising to Ms. Rita?

I see a whole lot of things done wrong in the initial planting and also respectively disagree with much of the advice given here making the problem worse. Further more I believe you'll cause more problems digging up and replanting it, including killing the tree. Initial planting, problem 1: The burlap should have been removed, the ball given a water bath with a hose to remove most of the non-native soil from the exterior of the root ball and nudging out the roots and breaking up the ball a little, it won't harm the tree but don't cut them. Problem 2: Adding any non native soil is wrong, especially in clay soil. This will create a bathtub effect where the amended soil will quickly fill with water during a rain only to be held back by the slower draining native soil. (Could of happened from the soil in the root ball when you removed it the first time.) Also when the roots come in contact with the finely textured less aerated native soil they will circle, just as they do in a pot. Leaving the burlap on and adding better soils are myths creating more problems than they fix. I suggest finding out what you're planting the tree in. you've stated it's clay but at what level, light, heavy? The water meter won't tell you how well water percolates down, or the type of soil, and clay isn't bad to have with 20% clay considered the perfect amount. Before doing anything else do a percolation test and grade your soil with these two simple tests. Dig two holes where you did not disturb the soil outside the drip line of the tree. Go a foot down and six inches in diameter, fill with water and let it drain until empty. Then fill the hole up again with water than time how long it takes to percolates down and drain. If it takes more then 4 hours to empty you have a drainage problem, less then 4 hours, so so and 3 hours your drainage is fine. Also take a glass jar and fill it 1/4 full with the dirt from the bottom of the holes you dug. Fill with water, shake well and let stand until clear. It may take a day to a week to clear depending on the clay's particle size. This will show you the ratio of clay to silt and sand. Clay with be the top layer, silt the middle and sand at the bottom. for simplicity anything above 30% clay on the top is considered clay soil and the longer it takes to clear means smaller clay particle size and the worst clay to have. What I recommend at this point depends on the drainage. Good drainage and I would say let the tree be. Establishment will take longer but the roots will eventuality move out of it's artificial safe zone and the tree with be fine. Bad drainage based on the percolation test would require option 2, a berm, but I do not believe it is necessary. Removing the tree will be a challenge of its own. Dogwoods hate to be moved, and you will need to dig 8" to 12" on each side of the tree for every inch in trunk diameter. 1" requires a 16" to24" dig. Yours looks to be about 2" so a 32" to 48" dig is needed and I'm telling you now it isn't easy. You can try to see if the root ball is confined to a tight little safe zone by grabbing the trunk at chest high and moving it side to side. If its root bound it will fill loose, almost like you could pull it out if it hasn't anchored. After a year the roots should have grown at least to the branch spread and in another year twice the distance, also most water/nutrients for a dogwood come from the first 6" in the ground. Is it spongy by the tree when walking on the ground? Dogwoods have sallow roots and why they're so intolerant to drought/lack of water. Do the perk test, do the shake test, but IMO the tree will be fine by next year.

Update: It was a nightmare to get this company to make it right even with emails from the manufacturer stating that they sealant must be removed and an environmental company coming out and informing the owner of the company the air quality was so bad he would not advise sitting out there. They removed the caulk and recaulked but it did nothing to help as it absorbed into the concrete slab and I am pretty sure it was used behind the wall in the corners. The air tester came out after the caulk had been removed and then re-caulked and it was still unsafe. After 4 more months of them doing nothing and the threat of getting a lawyer involved they sealed the floor and it began to ease some. After installing tile and molding, and it helped more. It has never entirely gone away and it has been 2 years. I haven't had the air quality tested because I think deep down I know there is still a small hazard there but in the state I live there is very little consequence to these types of things. Which is why the owner was so blatent and arrogant. He thought he would never be held accountable. Once he got wind of us calling lawyers and asking for formal reports on the testing, he realized it probably best to take our calls. Unfortunately, they've installed hundreds of sunrooms this way, including my neighborhood full of elderly people. They all noticed a smell but thought it was supposed to smell that way because it was new. I personally know of 3 people who have had their sunrooms longer than me and you can still smell the fumes too. My advice is to learn to do things yourself because contractors are really, really bad right now with all the work coming in and they know there is little accountability to be held.

@Maggie By "air dry" were you maybe asking about "air fry?" That's is a boosted convection roast/bake function that is turning up on some ranges and wall ovens and is becoming a popular option for countertop ovens (f/k/a toaster ovens.). That Wolf countertop oven is priced at something like $750 to $850 which is very expensive for a countertop oven. For a temporary kitchen, you might want to look into one of the other highly rated and much less expensive brands such as Breville (IIRC, it's "Smart Oven Pro Air Fry" model is around $350 and there are less expensive versions if you don't care about "air fry" functions.) Cook's Illustrated/ATK, Wirecutter, and similar sites have recent reviews and recommendations if you want to consider alternatives to the Wolf. Beyond that, there are some questions to ask to help figure out what you can do for a temporary kitchen during the long down time. First one is how many electrical circuits will be available for you to use? That's entire circuits, not just separate outlets. Seems to me that may be the biggest constraint on what you can do for a temporary kitchen. Suggested cooking appliances like a portable induction cooktop (PIC) and countertop ovens --- those can be expected to use up to 1500 to 1800 watts when in use. That means they pretty much have to be the only thing on the circuit when they are running. While some commercial coil-burner hotplates can pull 1500 watts, lesser models can be had that only go to 1200 watts or even just 600 watts. Small microwaves, coffee makers, electric kettles, electric pressure cooker-multi-cookers (such as the Instant Pots), electric frying pans/griddles, waffle makers and such, generally pull 1200 watts or less, depending on the model. BTW, you'll want/need heavy duty extension cords -- at least 12 gauge AWG --- not lightweight lamp cord models you might use for a floor fan or a lamp. WIll you be able to run extension cords to other circuits when the contractor is not working in the rest of the condo? Are the available circuits rated for 20 Amps or the lesser but more common 15 Amps? That, too, affects your ability to run a couple of the temporary appliances together. There will be special logistical issues with a refrigerator. A refrigerator of any kind will have to be plugged in more or less all the time to work and will need a circuit with nothing else or very little else on it (maybe a table lamp?). That's less of an issue with a small "dorm fridge" as they have somewhat lesser power draws. You asked about using the full-size SxS model you want for the remodel since it is available now for delivery. You can use it if you and your contractor can figure out the logistics of where to put it. and where to plug it in. Will your "down to the studs" reno involve significant rewiring outside the bedroom and bath? (IOW, will there even be a circuit for a full size fridge any time soon?) Will there be a subfloor/sheathing it can sit on? You'll be looking for an available an electric circuit that won't be needed for power tools. Will your the contractor be willing to move that SxS around as needed for the reno work? FWIW, you can run an extension cord to elsewhere in your condo. While electrical codes prohibit long term use of extension cords for appliances like fridges, they do permit temporary use of them for situations like yours Can/will your contractor move the fridge around as work is being done and, if so, can the fridge be protected from the dust and debris of flooring, dry walling and other such work? Can't have it running while wrapped in plastic -- running fridges need space to expel heat and the mechanicals need a a rady supply of air. If it has to be shut down, will it be shut down for more than a few hours at a time? (Fridges are designed and insulated to be able to hold cold temperatures for some power outages, so can be shut off intermittently for a while, if needed.) Putting the fridge in the bedroom might avoid the protection issues, but, could it even fit through the bedroom doorway, is there space for it once in there, and will you be able to sleep with the compressor coming on periodically through the night as fridges do?